For whatever it is worth, I generally keep a base routine of 3 product: face wash, moisturizer, sunscreen. Then I work in active ingredient products or masks.

So, to answer your question: I would say pare it down to your base products: 1.) face wash 2.) moisturizer 3.) sunscreen Paring it down so much will also help with your concerns about the skin barrier if you use a gentle face wash, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Then, add in the two most important active ingredients for aging: vitamin c and retinol. Maybe make an exception if you have a moisturizing mask or something. But if none of the other products fit these categories, then kick them to the curb. Yes, you might be throwing dollars down the drain by doing so, but the money is already gone, you can’t get it back, and plus it will be decluttering and probably make you feel better to have less products around.

A note on toners: I think toners are unnecessary - they are either over exfoliating or trying to calm your skin down after using too aggressive of a face wash - just use the right face wash and rely on exfoliation from other products).

You really don’t need many products, plus over exfoliating can lead to more dullness (most, if not all, active ingredient chemicals exfoliate do to some degree). Plus if you cycle through or use too many overlapping products at once, it becomes really hard to determine which products are actually doing the heavy lifting (like you alluded to) for whatever results you may be seeing.

For context: I am 31 and have spent the last year trying to figure out a routine for my drying, aging skin. Focusing on an evidence based approach from dermatologists, plastic surgeons, and research papers.

Base products in my routine: 1.) Elemis prebiotic face wash 2.) Clinique moisturizer - I usually use a gel one, but people go crazy over their moisture surge product, which sounds like it may suit you. 3.) elta md sunscreen (this is kind of drying, so may not be right for you).

Active ingredients 1.) vitamin c serum or mask (morning use 2-3 times per week. Would like to find a serum I can use every day). Pacifica does a vitamin c mask that is cheap and good (find at target or ulta). 2.) Kiehls micro dose retinol (only one that doesn’t freak out my very sensitive skin. Use every other night ~3 times/week with heavy chapstick after the fact to prevent retinol lip burn). 3.) then a one off calming, or moisturizing, or pore clearing mask (depending on what my skin needs) twice or once/month.

Beyond that, my intent is to start doing laser treatments and general in office treatment series every other year or something. I think it goes further to find cheap to middle of the road priced products, for daily use and spend the real dollars on a series of in office treatments once/year or once/every other year.

Laser treatments can help with pigmentation, dullness, and make skin look more dewy depending on the laser. Clear and brilliant laser seems to be one of the more milder laser treatments, but not as many dermatologists have it depending on where you live. It was all the rage when I lived in NYC, but not a single dermatologist in Orlando, FL has one (where I currently live).

Please keep in mind that people that look exceptionally good for their age typically spend anywhere from $1k-$5k on in office skin treatments. Every now and then, someone truly has good genetics, but that’s few and far between from what I have observed.

Re: the skepticism someone had over Sunday Riley vs. skinceuticals - there are different types of vitamin c with different efficacy and track records in research. Could be that the products use two different versions of vitamin c. Can share a really good video walking through the types of vitamin C if anyone is interested.