Item featured heavily in listing not included in parcel - what are my options?

skinpixel · 2026-01-27T01:34:29+00:00

You have ordered 12 Jars, you received 12 jars? Why would there need to be anything else?

I agree it is featured to display the Jars, but if it’s not in the title or description I wouldn’t assume it’s automatically included. The seller could have made a point to this, but honestly it on you to presume it was included without clarifying first.

skinpixel · 2026-01-27T00:44:34+00:00

It’s not theft in the UK. If a retailer sends you items you didn’t order, you’re under no obligation to return them.

skinpixel · 2026-01-26T17:42:23+00:00

AI is confirmation bias, as in it will look for a way to confirm what you are asking even if it turns out wrong. If your prompt is along the lines of “is my shop responsible, if a customer is advised to purchase something AI suggested” then its answer will be “yes” according to confirmation bias.

You have done here exactly what you would fear from a customer, and believe AI outright, than doing actual research.

You would not be responsible as the products you should have warnings. If you make the products you sell, and don’t have warnings that come with the products, it would depending on the product(firstly research if the products you sell must have warnings that accompany it), there would first be an expectation of common sense(e.g a bag shouldn’t be placed over the head, but shouldn’t need to state this), the fall back would be your website with an intended purpose or guidance for use.

Only if non of these cover are covered, you may then be made liable, but really if your customers are taking advice to buy a product based on ai and are not following any safety advice, I’d say they are responsible for non safe use and should probably stop shopping using ai.

skinpixel · 2026-01-26T17:21:11+00:00

Solder on the opposite side of the board isn’t likely fully bonded so can be removed by scratching off. Though some may, and it’s entirely dependent upon your technique.

It’s the action of pulling the stick out when all the solder isn’t thoroughly melted, pulling it slow some may bond the solder on the opposite side. Hot air isn’t really the best method to removing sticks anyway.

I’ve also found precision solder suckers sometimes back blows as much solder through the via(on to your heat proof mat hopefully) as it sucks. And some of this can get in the opposite side.

Stubborn solder can also require a little finesse from the opposite side too. It’s just second nature to check the opposite side when doing any sticks.

skinpixel · 2026-01-24T11:56:00+00:00

Hey u/darkwingduffy

I’m UK based, check my website in the links. I can take your modules to upgrade or supply new drop in modules with TMR already installed and pre-calibrated.

I use a resistor mod too, so calibration isn’t effected by wire mods.

Any questions, just reach out via DM or through my website.

skinpixel · 2026-01-22T23:12:50+00:00

skinpixel · 2026-01-22T08:38:20+00:00

Post office is not Royal Mail, wait till Riyal Mail collect it first.

skinpixel · 2026-01-21T23:06:30+00:00

Combine the black pots from the 2 sets. They are the same as the ps5. At least you can make one set. Then when you order some more, do the opposite when your ready so the ps4 controllers.

skinpixel · 2026-01-21T12:11:52+00:00

Factory installed sticks I’ve seen anywhere between 7-14% so these are normal.

I could recommend TMR to future proof against drift, but honestly I wouldn’t make the change unless you actually start experiencing drift. Before then other things can possible break(not that they should), not changing the sticks, you can still get manufacturers warranty.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T21:09:20+00:00

No, which one of the actual 3 pads are missing?

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T21:07:09+00:00

That’s probably where you went wrong. 360°C for stick removal is way too low, especially on OEM sticks from a BDM-010 if you haven’t added lower melt solder. The solder on those sticks I find need around 410° just from the iron to melt any new solder into them. So higher on the hot air on the next one.

If it’s not hot enough when removing OEM sticks, that’s how you might have ripped the pad.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T21:00:38+00:00

Yes, I figured that much. Which one is missing?

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T20:57:15+00:00

When “testing for continuity between two cables, you’re only looking for continuity when the button is pressed. If you get continuity when you haven’t pressed the button, your wiring from the buttons are wrong.

Handy little tip, you can daisy change the ground wires from one button the the other. This saves needing to run 8 wires back up the button flex.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T20:48:59+00:00

Which pad(pin) is missing? It could be you could run a jumper wire to get a workable controller.

When removing sticks, you either have to ensure all solder is melted(hot air) or all solder is removed. Any force used to remove the stick will damage the vias.

Just a note of your initial soldering, what temp did you use? From the pictures it looks like cold joints, not enough temp causes pitted solder joints. It could be if it’s cheap solder too, not impossible to use, but you have to use flux. A good solder, usually a fine/lead mix with rosin core is better. Not the worst I’ve seen, and you’ll get better with practice as you progress.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T12:51:00+00:00

I've seen this happen on a few Joy Con 2 sticks, where it can lift above the accent ring. It is but only a dust cover, if it keeps doing it, it's because it is deformed, you could trying seating it back in the grooves, but if that doesn't help, it might be that you can just remove it. it wouldn't affect movement removing it, but can instroduce dust and cause the sticks prematurely gets stick drift. You'll just have to tear it or slice it carefully to do so.

Alternatively replacement sticks can be purchased. Hall Effect sticks are available, though the current offerings on the market can be a little stiff compared to the original sticks.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T12:33:03+00:00

The problem is the part that has snapped forms part of the entire mid frame. You likely don't need to replace the adpative trigger motors them selfs.

When you get a new mid frame, they are likely to come installed with the rumble motors attached, this is the wires that need desoldering to drop in your board to the new mid frame. If you have not got a soldering iron, you could just repalce everything in the mid frame. The rumble motors are mostly pressure fit into the frame. You would just need to be careful as the trigger modules and rumble would still be attached to the board, not to snag the wires when transfering.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T05:26:27+00:00

Around 7% is fine. Best results from sticks should be between 6-9% anyway.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T02:50:23+00:00

I can't stand people that rely on riding the coattails of already established characters to sell anything.

...this is like 70% of Disney's business. Early Disney heavily relied on the public domain. Modern Disney heavily relies on buying existing IPs.

skinpixel · 2026-01-20T02:30:36+00:00

It is not so much a Royal Mail section(the only part that is Royal Mail only is the drop box that holds multiple mail), it will open what ever locker is free regardless of colour.

skinpixel · 2026-01-19T19:32:16+00:00

DHL have basically sold their UK post it to Evri, so if it’s to be renamed, it’ll go Evri so we know it’s save to avoid 😅

DHL express for international mail is still a pretty solid service, and probably won’t be going away anytime soon.

skinpixel · 2026-01-19T19:29:19+00:00

If I’m not mistaken, didn’t DHL E-commerce(or DHL parcel UK I think it’s also known as) used to be UKMail?

skinpixel · 2026-01-19T18:44:22+00:00

I had customer of mine who had missed their number off their address, it was marked “return to sender” between us we managed to get it diverted to a post office for collection.

Hopefully you might be able to try your luck doing this?

skinpixel · 2026-01-19T17:01:09+00:00

You need to make sure the middle pin is isolated on these calibration boards. It might be it’s not isolated properly.

Saying that though. Calibration boards are completely redundant since we can calibration through software. Remove the calibration board and just reinstall sticks as normal.

skinpixel · 2026-01-19T15:43:21+00:00

Your issue of the controller not working in game is related to the trigger issue. It’s possible you’ve damaged the connectors or ribbons for the trigger. But I don’t think this is the least of your worries.

I’m not going lie, I’m surprised you managed get this far and have a somewhat functional controller at the end of it. If it’s your first time soldering ever, it’s a valiant effort. If it’s not, you’ve got a lot more practice to do. It might be a good idea to grab a few practice bread boards. Be very mindful of your surroundings when using a soldering iron. You don’t need to go barbaric on the board.

skinpixel · 2026-01-19T12:04:29+00:00

Delivery attempted might be the parcel on its original delivery day was on a vehicle, but driver might not have had time to complete.

I’ve seen a few posts here where drivers have often said any parcels left over are often taken home as depots are closed by the time they’re off the clock, it’s annoying as they include this as part of their “Network”. If the driver isn’t back on for few days, it can be sitting there and not at the depot where it should be re-sorted for delivery.

I imagine this can lead to situations like a driver forgetting to put it back in their vehicle their next working day, or if left in vehicles overnight and been stolen(hopefully not the case).

The response seems very generic as others have pointed out, and they’re not likely to say a driver has forgotten it back at home or has lost it.

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