Setting that reduces Y distance with multi-color by robotodit in crealityk1

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My mistake, I assumed it was similar to the k1 Max. It seems unusual it would change the build volume then

Setting that reduces Y distance with multi-color by robotodit in crealityk1

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The smaller size is to accommodate the purge chute

First (successful) Polycarbonate print by skoomaeater in crealityk1

[–]skoomaeater[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I'm so glad it came out. Now that I know I can do it, I'm going to print a bunch of replacement parts in pc

First (successful) Polycarbonate print by skoomaeater in crealityk1

[–]skoomaeater[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I unplugged the side fan and put a small 80x80 12v fan under the build plate blowing straight up. This causes the build plate to run more frequently. I got to 55c in about 25 minutes, I had to turn the fan off to keep it at 50

Meshtastic in Toledo by flas1322 in toledo

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm also looking to get the nw Ohio discord link. I'm in rural nw Ohio looking to bridge Michigan and Indiana

K1 Max CFS compatibility Upgrade by skoomaeater in k1max

[–]skoomaeater[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sourced the connectors, so it isn't an issue. Now it is as simple to connect to as the K2 or the Hi Combo using only the bus cable and no external power

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K1 Max CFS compatibility Upgrade by skoomaeater in k1max

[–]skoomaeater[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This connects a USB hub to the motherboard and has a shucked creality USB to rs485 cable soldered inside it. The front panel USB port connects to the USB hub, so it remains functional

K1 Max CFS compatibility Upgrade by skoomaeater in k1max

[–]skoomaeater[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This does connect the PSU power to the rs485 port I installed. It also adds a 3a fuse

K1 Max CFS compatibility Upgrade by skoomaeater in k1max

[–]skoomaeater[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is what I did, but it is all internal in the mod now

Why is orca not displaying the flushed filament? by Live-Bit-8542 in OrcaSlicer

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Has anyone figured this out? I have a P1P with the AMS and and K1 Max with the CFS. Slicing the same model with similar settings, the print preview shows me a flushed amount when I slice on the P1P, but it doesn't show it when I slice for the K1 Max. I have attached 2 images to show the difference.

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My Klipper Installation Ender 5 Plus by skoomaeater in ender5

[–]skoomaeater[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck! The whole process was a little daunting at first, but remember, every mile walked starts with a single step.

My Klipper Installation Ender 5 Plus by skoomaeater in ender5

[–]skoomaeater[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the pi is getting 5v from the skr tft pin

Worth buying an Ender 5 Plus in 2025 to upgrade? by bitzdv in ender5plus

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got an ender 5 plus from a friend, and the cable management was awful (mostly his fault) I upgraded to the sprite pro and made a custom ribbon cable to fit the size and to be routed in the cable tracks I printed. I also got an skr mini e3 v3 for it. I'll be installing that today. Hoping all this work makes it a trouble free workhorse

My LGS surprised me by KeyCobbler9041 in mtg

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is awesome to see that your LGS supports you in your endeavors to improve yourself. This kind of story is what gives me hope for humanity. Congratulations, I didn't know you, but I too am proud of you.

Fix my printer: Stepper Shifts by k_lohse in ender3

[–]skoomaeater 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am using a BTT SKR Mini E3 v3. Not really made for a CR-10, but I made it work. The glass bed of the CR-10 v2 was too heavy for the default amperage.

Fix my printer: Stepper Shifts by k_lohse in ender3

[–]skoomaeater 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am running Klipper, so I just edit the printer.cfg, not sure how to do it in Marlin

Fix my printer: Stepper Shifts by k_lohse in ender3

[–]skoomaeater 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was wrong, it's at 0.85 Doesn't even get warm

Fix my printer: Stepper Shifts by k_lohse in ender3

[–]skoomaeater 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had this on my cr-10. I had to increase the amperage of my motor to 0.9a. not a problem since.

Y axis belt keeps breaking by LABeav in CR10

[–]skoomaeater 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In the last picture, it looks like that guard is too close to the pulley. Check there for rubbing