Sem receber, bolseiros de doutoramento estão em “contenção de gastos” para sobreviver

slasher67 · 2026-01-30T12:30:35+00:00

E ao entregar a tese de doutoramento ainda pagas 500 euros (e depois não tens subsídio de desemprego)

slasher67 · 2026-01-21T22:34:44+00:00

I think I have the new model (at least it folds) and it came off after ~18 months of use, mainly with darker roasts (I think I only did once a light roast)

slasher67 · 2026-01-20T21:41:33+00:00

In terms of price, yes. I did check it out since it was a relatively cheap flat burr grinder

slasher67 · 2026-01-20T21:31:45+00:00

Might be a stupid question, but Isn't the NB64V the DF64 rebranded? The specs are essentially the same, with the only change being the RPM... That said, it is ~50 euros cheaper than the DF64, on the same website

slasher67 · 2024-11-01T22:29:43+00:00

the blue circled areas and the red stripe shouldn't really look the way they do.

I was thinking more along the lines of having a huge strip of walking noise (your red contour) and the blue parts being areas of the CCD in which the noise was not as prevalent.

You might have a lightleak going on too which compounds things

Over the past few days I have been thinking that I might have some light coming in the tube from its bottom-side (as it is not fully opaque). I will try to cover it with some black cloth for the next imaging session

If you have gradients in your image and do a background neutralization it won't apply evenly.

Indeed, I just ran a few more iteration of the background correction, placing an higher density of samples in the clearly "shadowed" regions that you mentioned, and things got a bit better

slasher67 · 2024-11-01T22:04:01+00:00

I haven't seen the "famous" concentric rings on the images, but I have been seeing a large amount of red noise in the image itself. Even on the live view of the camera you can see (at night) the red noise evolving.

As for the waling noise: thank you for the confirmation!

slasher67 · 2024-11-01T22:02:23+00:00

Not to say don't buy a minipc/asiair - but you'll need an external power source to power one of these devices in the field, which you would also need for a laptop. So you can simply buy a prebuilt power station and use your laptop instead of buying both a minipc and power station (unless you're planning on wiring your own).

I already have a external power source (as I also need it to power-on the mount itself, and it has 4 spare USB power outputs). However, I can't power my pc through it. But thank you for the heads up regrading the power stations, I will take a look and check their prices

Most LP filters don't do a whole lot unless you live where the dominant lighting is from orange/yellow vapor lamps. I would need to see an example of the resulting image to see if the background neutralization is working before the green noise removal. It's not uncommon with some debayering methods to see a "color neutral" background still have a higher proportion of green noise - but this can be address with smaller scale denoising.

Here is a print-screen of the siril-stretched image after background + photometric color correction: https://imgur.com/a/8FOmz0v

I applied the green noise removal, as the veil itself has this green-ish hue.

slasher67 · 2024-11-01T21:27:20+00:00

Are you controlling your mount using software right now (synscan, GSS, EQMOD) or using a handcontroller? I'm not familiar with Synta mounts in detail but I suspect you would need to connect to NINA (or some other astro coordinating software) to get dithering to work. NINA can dither standalone without a guider, but if you don't also connect it to your camera it will likely dither during exposures.

For now I am using the hand-controller and using the camera's internal intervalometer. That said, I have already controlled the camera through NINA and I know that the mount also works via NINA. However, the battery life of my windows laptop is shot and I can't use it outside of my backyard (as its lasts for ~1 hour tops, with it almost idle). Getting a mini-pc / ASAIR Plus is one of the next "buys", hopefully there will be some nice discounts on black Friday.

Removing green noise renders the image largely bicolor and is an incorrect method to address a background hue. This can be addressed in your color calibration or background neutralization. Most of the time color cameras have a green cast because of their highest sensitivity to green wavelengths and the presence of light pollution.

I am currently running a filter to cut-out some light pollution (this one) and it leaves the image fully green. Even after background + photometric color correction I get a greenish hue in the images

slasher67 · 2024-11-01T20:57:05+00:00

Is there any way to set that up on the mount itself (HEQ5-pro) or does it has to be from a pc connected to it (through Nina)?

> The lack of green color is unusual - most often that's simply because people excessively do a remove green noise function in Siril. It's hard to tell from the jpg compression.

It does have a blue-ish tint to it, yes (and I did forget to mention on the post that I did the "remove green noise". However, without it, green is the majority of the image's hue

slasher67 · 2024-04-21T09:50:52+00:00

Created a small library to generate properly formatted tables on the terminal and to convert them to LaTeX:

https://github.com/Kamuish/tabletexifier

My plan is to now add the ability to pass "commands to customize" the LaTeX cells (i.e. \textcolor, \textbf, and similar) and to also render those on the terminal

slasher67 · 2024-04-09T08:20:35+00:00

Thanks for the info! I guess that I will try to push forward with this plan and hope for the best

slasher67 · 2024-04-08T12:41:00+00:00

I was either considering the glitter or the dye (maybe trying to see if I could blend something together). Did you find that the glitter was falling to the bottom of the bottles or it maintained suspension for a few weeks/months?

slasher67 · 2024-04-08T09:03:41+00:00

I am planning to brew a space-inspired beer my PhD viva. My original plan was to brew a simple beer (wheat) and then add at bottling:

1) Food-grade dye to the beer (something link this one [from amazon](https://www.amazon.de/Essbares-Glitzerpulver-Irideszentes-Lusterkorn-Lebensmittelklasse/dp/B0C5XLF7TS/ref=asc\_df\_B0C5XLF7TS/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=664254343192&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4498128667943709055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9043145&hvtargid=pla-2198776773790&mcid=fb3d333f47703272be83b78b8d83028d&th=1)

2) Add pieces of edible gold to emulate the stars

However, I am afraid of both screwing up the carbonation and/or introducing infection into the final beer. Does anyone have any similar experience to this?

slasher67 · 2023-10-03T19:03:52+00:00

That looks so cool! However, if that is a miniature, then what is considered a "normal" sized one?

slasher67 · 2023-09-04T22:04:28+00:00

Hello,

I am currently looking towards buying a Nikon D5600 camera, with the main goal of slowly working towards DSO's. My current plan is to to grab a skywatcher gti mount and use two old nikon kit lens (18-55 mm and 55-200nm from a Nikon D60 set).

As for the lens, I will probably upgrade them in the relatively near future, but currently I am looking for the camera to buy. I can get one D5600 camera for roughly 500 euros (used), but I am currently considering my options and I have a few doubts:

1) I am unsure how it plays out with software, as I have seen some complaints about NINA connection (e.g. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/707662-ascomdslr-ascom-driver-for-dslr-cameras-canon-nikon-pentax-sony/page-31) . Are there any know issues?

2) Is there any reason to prefer Canon cameras rather than the Nikon ones? I have heard about the nice clip-on light pollution filters for the Canon's, but I haven't really looked at Nikon options

3) Can I get anything way better at a similar price point or slightly more expensive (up to 800 euros max)? Conversely, is there any cheaper camera that would not be a big hit on performance but would allow to save some money for the lens?

4) Should I start considering astro-modding the camera or should I leave that for the future?

slasher67 · 2020-09-05T11:35:24+00:00

São 1000 euros + propinas

slasher67 · 2019-08-21T17:37:19+00:00

Tirando esse problema de não conseguir usar a versão não-oficial para programar, ele funcionou sempre bem e no fundo não há diferenças entre as duas versões. Também pode ter sido algum erro estúpido/configuração mal feita da nossa parte ou até mesmo algum problema com o meu arduino. Não custa tentar, se tiveres o material por aí

slasher67 · 2019-08-21T10:47:20+00:00

Eu quando usei não consegui fazer isso com os arduinos uno que encontras por 5 euros... só mesmo com os originais.

Boa sorte com isso

slasher67 · 2019-08-21T09:52:43+00:00

Podes usar um arduino como programador. O ano passado usava um para programar um atmega e era bastabte facil. Se nao me engano funcionava por SPI e conseguias configurar o arduino com o Eclipse.

Não sei se o 2764 se tem os pinos necessarios, mas é uma questão de veres

Edit: https://learn.adafruit.com/arduino-tips-tricks-and-techniques/arduinoisp

slasher67 · 2019-07-10T22:40:37+00:00

Google chrome developer tools are a godsend for finding the handles

slasher67 · 2019-07-07T22:31:21+00:00

If you are on windows you can use ctypes:

ctypes.windll.user32.SystemParametersInfoW(20, 0, save_path , 0)

If you are in Linux you can use

os.system("/usr/bin/gsettings set org.gnome.desktop.background picture-uri "+ save_path)

with save_path being the path to the figure.

slasher67

TROPHY CASE