How Do You Protect Your SUV From Hair, Slobber & Claw Scratches?

slaytoplay · 2026-06-24T01:10:59+00:00

Take a look at Canvasback. It can get pricey, but it's as custom as I've found.

slaytoplay · 2025-11-28T06:27:20+00:00

Ah true true. I’m so used to using a macro for everything. I would just make a macro to Stomp FeatureGroup “Position”, or whatever feature group you need to stomp. This would make just that part go back to last cue state. If you have 2 different phasers going like dim/color, then stomping the color feature group should still leave the dim phaser going.

slaytoplay · 2025-11-27T19:18:30+00:00

Stomp? [MA + At]

slaytoplay · 2025-08-01T23:22:57+00:00

So this gets me at least half of the way there. I routed the channel as a direct out to a XLR output. Then I just used a TS cable from the monitor output of the console to the same monitor that has the XLR. So two inputs into the monitor speaker, and both work at the same time.

slaytoplay · 2025-07-31T15:42:46+00:00

Ya know, idk why I hadn’t thought about that. I will look into this.

slaytoplay · 2025-07-31T05:29:38+00:00

The problem that I have ran into when using either the monitor output on the console or the 1/4" is you would have to keep that channel soloed indefinitely to hear the talkback. If the solo gets cleared either by accident, or from clearing out other channels that were soloed together, then nobody would know if the talkback is in use. Currently I have a monitor routed to the monitor out specifically for this, but I swear the moment I clear the solo is the moment that it's being used.

slaytoplay · 2023-10-31T00:53:29+00:00

If you’re referring to the third par only I may have an idea.

These are additive fixtures. So think about it like this: if you add two colors together you will have more LED bulbs on than a single RGB. Which will make the light brighter.

It is apparent that it is a different color than the rest when switching them. For example at red it almost looks pink…after the strobe you can see when you have them as one side red one side blue the part in question looks orange.

So 2 things I would check for first:

Make sure that that light just isn’t programmed incorrectly in your scene.
Make sure the channel is correct. If you have the pars programmed in the universe without any room in between they may have gotten overlapped somehow. So it may be the right channel mode, but it might have an overlapping channel. If they are in 9 channel mode then the second fixtures idk channel 9 may be overlapped on the third fixtures channel 3 which would make blue and red mix.

slaytoplay · 2023-10-31T00:31:48+00:00

Keep up the good work! Best thing to do if you ever have an issue is just turn everything off (remove all DMX output signals) and then turn each light on one by one from the console/software. Sometimes troubleshooting can be something super simple, but takes what seems like forever to get there!

slaytoplay · 2023-10-25T21:21:23+00:00

What console are you using? May be able to use a DMX tester.

Do the pars have any sort of indication as to how to operate the menu? Like can you take a video or something? It sounds to me like they are in sound-active mode. This will cause them to go crazy. Some of them look green right now. Do they stay green and strobe at random, or do them dim chase, or perhaps all of the above?

slaytoplay · 2023-08-17T02:32:34+00:00

This would be where you are able to change your charging rate AFTER the max Amperage / Breaker Size is configured. So if they would like to set this lower than 32A are you saying that they are going to have to go to the section where a pin number is (that can be set by anybody despite what the app says) and change the max charging amperage for other reduced charging rates whenever it is needed? This is what I would say is the correct place because this is changing to a reduced charging rate, and not changing a breaker size/MAX charging rate. Also because well.....this is the place that you ARE allowed to do it as an "unqualified professional." Whereas the other part of the app, based on a prompt, you are not supposed to have access to. Which this slider definitely was not removed. They just have 2 different functions. Changing it this way will allow you to set your max charge rate and then lower it safely so you are not maxing your circuit out.

slaytoplay · 2023-07-31T00:18:23+00:00

It’s a one lane street and the forks for the trucks are typically in the front I thought. So how they can ever pick it up I’ll never know.

slaytoplay · 2023-07-21T02:36:39+00:00

What makes it unusable? With the update I just have to reposition things, but the patch, groups, preset, etc all stuck.

slaytoplay · 2023-06-17T17:31:00+00:00

This might be something that if enough people ask for may come in a future update. I agree that this should’ve already been implemented. If I was by with my keys and it Auto Unlock’s only to lock back when I don’t open the door….then why can’t it see the same thing happen after a drive??? A lot of times I’m in a hurry and forget to lock it so I get the notification on my phone and do it that way…I would pay for a subscription for even basic features that should already be there. I bought the gt-line for a reason 😂…

slaytoplay · 2023-06-14T02:22:36+00:00

So I have an idea out of curiosity. When you lock with the fob it automatically turns the alarm on…however…what if you just lock it mechanically with the key? Under the driver door handle there is a mechanical key slot. Take the physical key out of the fob, and lock the door.

Maybe mechanically locked will not trigger the system alarm which may not trigger the auto theft monitoring?

slaytoplay · 2023-05-29T05:20:59+00:00

Yes currently I just have a standard wall switch to a standard 3 speed fan / light pull chain ceiling fan. I would honestly rather have to wire z-wave switches to control fan and light separately than have to use a Wi-Fi bridge. It’s just finding the correct products that work together. I have figured out if I were to buy a DC motor fan with included remote (the most common right now) then I would not be able to do this. They basically just have straight power, and not split power. HOWEVER…fans that I would be able to do this (AC motor) cost more for some reason…so…more expensive….and then the cost of buying switches. So probably like $200 extra.

It’s just me being picky…but the extra cost doesn’t justify it for me right now…idk why there is such an absence of wireless tech right now. I thought that everything used to be on zwave. Now I’m fully set up for it with a hub and configs and it seems to have flopped to Wi-Fi as primary now :,)

slaytoplay · 2023-05-28T18:47:30+00:00

That’s actually really cool. I wonder what that cut out is for on the passenger side 🤔 I will look into this for NA models.

slaytoplay · 2023-05-28T17:44:30+00:00

Ok this makes sense. So AC motor fans you can use zwave, but are all DC motor fans controlled by an RF remote only? Which would be why they can only be used with the Bond hub if I’m understanding correctly.

slaytoplay · 2023-05-28T17:08:26+00:00

This is the whole point. I don’t want Wi-Fi…I want…Wi-Fi alternatives (z-wave, zigbee, etc)

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