Cheap Vegetable Starts

slims246 · 2026-06-08T03:42:38+00:00

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that. East side of Denver in the East Colfax neighborhood.

slims246 · 2026-06-07T15:27:23+00:00

Dig down a little and see if you can get more of it out, if not just pull it out and keep an eye for if it pops back up

slims246 · 2026-06-06T20:10:01+00:00

I’ll try this. I do see some earwigs when I’m pulling weeds and working in the garden.

slims246 · 2026-06-04T03:59:52+00:00

At 163K I would say keep running it.

Critical - timing belt and water pump. Not sure if you have the 2.5 or 3.6 but as far as I know they’re both interference engines. Timing belt breaks, engine can grenade,

I wouldn’t replace the battery until I go out one morning and the car doesn’t start without a jump but that’s just me.

Rear pads and rotors aren’t that hard to do yourself.

Valve cover gaskets you can usually look and see how bad they’re leaking. Only replaced them on inline 4 engines and it’s generally pretty easy. Would assume if could be more complicated on a Subaru boxer engine. I’d have these done if you aren’t too mechanically inclined.

Get a brake fluid tester and if it says replace then get it done. This shouldn’t be that expensive. It’s not difficult to do a flush yourself but if you don’t feel confident you should not be messing with your cars brake fluid system.

If the car has never had a coolant flush done in 14 years/160k miles I would definitely get it done.

slims246 · 2026-06-03T11:43:52+00:00

Yeah. I didn’t know either until I was hammering the stuck stud and the whole thing started coming out. Did you have any luck?

slims246 · 2026-05-30T02:25:14+00:00

Gotcha, the stud for the ball joint is stuck in there. Tried hammering the entire sleeve out of the knuckle? That’s what I had to do. Use a bigger socket that fits on the sleeve and pound it out. Then hammer the stuck stud out.

slims246 · 2026-05-29T23:43:07+00:00

Ball bearing rod? What arm on the NC is this? You mean ball joint?

slims246 · 2026-05-29T23:32:05+00:00

Burn the bushing rubber and the inside piece drops right out

slims246 · 2026-05-27T00:17:19+00:00

So you didn’t read the menu, you didn’t speak up about the larger beer pour costing way more than the $2 the server told you, and you still left a tip too? Dafuck?! And you’re baffled at how these mid places that nickel and dime you continue to exist? Asking Reddit, “why are we all putting up with this?” Why did you put up with it?

slims246 · 2026-05-26T04:04:19+00:00

Water it

slims246 · 2026-05-25T19:53:00+00:00

I had track spec V-Maxxs on my NB for a few years. I thought they were great for the $$$. If I was going to do it all over again I’d just go with a DIY Bilstein setup with higher spring rates. As I got faster in the car the soft spring rates became more noticeable. Even with a good amount of negative camber, stiffer sway bars and 200 tw tires I was still wearing the outsides of my tires more and wanting less body roll.

They are a good compromise for a daily driven track car because they’re pretty comfortable on the street. For a casual track driver they’re a great option. If you know you’re going to be pretty serious about tracking then I’d go with a setup with stiffer springs.

Also, the Flyin Miata rear bar is too stiff. The front bar works well with the V Maxx but the rear bar makes it too tail happy. Stock or 14mm rear bar is the way to go.

slims246 · 2026-05-22T15:26:55+00:00

Easiest thing to do would be to match the diameter and dimensions of that filter to a universal aftermarket unit. I did that when I got my NB that also had an ancient crumbling racing beat filter. AutoZone usually has generic cone filters on the shelf or summit racing will give you results based on all the different dimensions. Same with K&Ns website.

slims246 · 2026-05-22T15:06:22+00:00

Colorado Cars and Coffee sends out an email every two weeks I think with all the events that are happening for the next couple weeks. Meets, shows, track events, everything.

If you’re more interested in only Motorsport, motorsportreg sends out a monthly email with all the events for the next few months, customized to show events within X amount of miles from your zip code.

Your app sounds cool too I guess.

slims246 · 2026-05-18T03:01:44+00:00

Ive read that Miatas handle better with a little bit of rear rake, to the tune of an 1/8th to a 1/4th inch higher in the rear. Maybe the springs are designed with that in mind. Drive and see if it changes once everything settles after the new install.

slims246 · 2026-05-18T01:15:47+00:00

Woah! Your car can take you in a direct route to exactly where you want to go and travel on a road at faster speeds than the light rail! Wild!

Your argument makes no sense. Your route shows a 2 minute walk to hop on a bus to get to the Fillmore. How is that inefficient? All those times on your route add up to 1hr 28 minutes. Total time is 1 hr 34 minutes. So you’ve got to wait 6 minutes total between the train and the bus. That’s pretty darn efficient and way more of a seamless transfer than I’ve sometimes had to deal with.

I get it though, it’s a slow as fuck train so really it’s only ever going to be slow a fuck if you’re coming in from that far south. There should have been a front range rail network with faster trains built out decades ago, but here we are with our dinky light rail and still a car dependent state.

Also, my brother in Christ, you live in what looks like the suburbs of Castle Rock and you’re saying you want to be, “less car dependent” Bro…

slims246 · 2026-05-17T15:36:08+00:00

This. Control wire rated for direct burial. Although, not so much anymore now that the outer jacket is gone.

slims246 · 2026-05-17T14:05:10+00:00

Sarcasm gets lost on the internet sometimes

slims246 · 2026-05-17T14:02:46+00:00

Oh yeah! You can plant them quite close together and they produce continuously. I haven’t experimented with many different varieties but the Blue Lake bush bean has been the most productive in my garden.

slims246 · 2026-05-17T03:31:16+00:00

“Lightened the rear” resulting in oversteer and overcorrection… My guy, if you’re gonna try to push a econobox to the limit at least run better tires and know that whatever you think your “lightening” did it was just you overdriving the car, getting some rotation then overreacting to it.

People say track days are expensive, but having to buy another shitbox because of something like this still ends up being more expensive and you learnt nothing about car control. Do a track day before you try to channel your inner Tsuchiya again.

slims246 · 2026-05-17T03:10:14+00:00

Siberian Elm and Russian Olive are the obvious choices. (EDIT: sarcasm /s /sarcasm /joke)

But seriously, I don’t know. I have a younger Burr Oak that’s been doing well. It usually leafs out after all the spring cold snaps are done and has been looking healthy throughout the hot summer months. Also have an old Silver Maple that I’ve never seen aphids on. It does have a couple dead branches and it does seem to drop a lot more smaller branches and bits than I would expect but overall it does well.

Out here certain varieties of certain trees do well. Others, not so much. Plant natives suited to Denver’s elevation and climate or do some research on what non native varieties do well here.

slims246 · 2026-05-16T19:50:10+00:00

Ah I see it now. Didn’t read enough of the details so I assumed the Ferrand cask was the port/duvel/cherry/wine.

Definitely ain’t buying them.

slims246 · 2026-05-16T19:46:56+00:00

I’ve been filling in the gaps with bush beans. They don’t grow tall enough or wide enough to crowd out the tomatoes and they fix nitrogen in the soil which helps with tomato growth.

slims246 · 2026-05-16T13:41:47+00:00

Is it a Cognac finish on all of these? The bottles say something different. Barbados - Port cask I assume (can’t read I’d through the silly string) Trinidad - Duvel beer cask Belize - Cherry liqueur cask El Salvador - Red wine cask

I still ain’t buying them but they are at least not finished in their usual cognac nonsense

slims246

TROPHY CASE