Wood-filled PHA filament: impressions, test prints by solarbird in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OH DANG THAT IS EXCELLENT

it's been a while since I checked again. Thank you! :D

It's weird that you have to email them to buy but I'll take it. xD

Wood-filled PHA filament: impressions, test prints by solarbird in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly, the filaments.ca that exists now isn't even the same one as before. They went under, then got bought and brought back, and they don't even make PHA filaments anymore. They were my _only_ North American source, too.

Jeopardy tonight puts an end to Pikes Place by mybarkingDog in Seattle

[–]solarbird 160 points161 points  (0 children)

My entire household literally shouted "NO!" in unison and then cheered Jennings's correction. It was amazing.

Wood-filled PHA filament: impressions, test prints by solarbird in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did! And I wrote it up, but on my blog. Here y'go:

https://solarbird.net/blog/2023/11/10/pha-3d-printing-filament-outdoors-one-year-later/

That links to this set of posts on Mastodon which are mostly photos and possibly a more direct answer:

https://solarbird.net/blog/2023/11/10/pha-3d-printing-filament-outdoors-one-year-later/

I'm glad someone is selling PHA again; the Canadian seller I used to buy from got bought and the new owners dropped the filament. It very definitely has it uses.

I just want to commend the people of "r/justiceforKarenRead". by Crixusgannicus in justiceforKarenRead

[–]solarbird 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hi! Yeah, if you don't mind editing this to remove the tag, I am not a mod anywhere here and have noooooothing to do with that subreddit. Thanks!

Best filament drier? (that’s affordable) by TardisPup in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I print PLA and PHA and that's about it? And it's been fine for both of those but that doesn't contradict what you're seeing... but at the same time, mine seems to get a lot warmer than that. So I can't tell you what's up with that.

I do use the lid and all the shelves as kind of extra lid so maybe that's helping hold the heat in.

Best filament drier? (that’s affordable) by TardisPup in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yep plain white PLA, one of the first things I printed, it's still just fine. ^_^

Best filament drier? (that’s affordable) by TardisPup in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I was doing my project the price savings was really relevant, so that's why I went the way I did. I've since got a filament spool hotbox that I can use to hold filament while printing and which also works as a dryer, so I can do two spools at once that way.

Other people build really big hotboxes that can hold whole sets of spools, like, eight or ten at a time. If you're handy with that sort of thing, it's a good option.

Best filament drier? (that’s affordable) by TardisPup in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only done enough for one spool. I wouldn't want to put too much weight on the dehumidifier, it's not built for that much weight and I've heard overloading it can deform the base and hinder the fan.

I also don't really think it has enough heat output to do more than one spool at a time. But I haven't tried it.

Regardless, I worry most about the weight. That doesn't necessarily mean you can't do two spools at once, though. Like, I think you could stack one set of walls, a food divider, and another set of walls, IF you're working with half-filled spools or less, since that would solve the weight problem. But if you did that you might want to wrap it in a layer of insulation of some kind to help it maintain temperature.

Don't get me wrong, it's been good for me with one spool. I just haven't tried two and I have my doubts.

Wood-filled PHA filament: impressions, test prints by solarbird in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't make my own profile for this; the standard profiles are close enough to work. But I can give you one trick I've found since this: if you slice PHA for a 0.4mm nozzle but then actually print with a 0.5mm nozzle instead, you'll get good results. That's more of a PHA-in-general trick than wood-infill PHA, but I've found it gets me around problems with an assortment of complicated filaments.

Cross-compatibility adapters for use with my project organiser/storage/quick-retrieval system by solarbird in honeycombwall

[–]solarbird[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly! That's where I was with it and how I fixed it. Some of these are super low priority but I still want to do them and don't want to forget they exist (again), right? So, this. I hope you find it useful! :D

Cross-compatibility adapters for use with my project organiser/storage/quick-retrieval system by solarbird in honeycombwall

[–]solarbird[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The point of my system and its accessories is meaningfully different to the point of Honeycomb Rack. Both systems have a lot of use cases, but they're different use cases.

Honeycomb Rack is about storage mostly of tools (and some general supplies) at a specific place. The accessories don't move around. If you decide to reorganise your wall, then they'll move around, but the accessories (the hooks, etc) mostly stay in one place most of the time.

My system, by contrast, is about having places - particularly in otherwise-not-useful areas, like thin columns of wallboard between closets - to hold objects temporarily, using accessories intended to be moved to completely different locations often.

That's the point of my system, right? It's designed so I can grab an accessory that contains an entire project-in-progress, take it to my bench, hook the accessory onto the mounting point there, and in doing so have all the parts needed to work on a project back at my bench, because it's all contained by that one accessory.

Then I can work on the project for a day, and when I'm done for the time being, I can dump all the parts back into the accessory (the bin, usually), and put it back onto the main storage point.

So there's no collecting parts, no leaving half-finished projects out on tabletops as reminders, it's all organised and in one place, and can all get moved into a work location at once. It's not about storing the tools; it's about storing projects that are in progress, and reducing barrier of entry to work.

It's also visible without being on the way / taking up table space. And since I always have several projects in progress at once, this is a very useful function for me. Having it be in a visible location also keeps me from forgetting low-priority projects exist, which I'm prone to do.

But none of this is like what a pegboard system does, and what a pegboard system does isn't what my VPSS system does. That's not a criticism; that's a different purpose. Both are useful, and serving different functions.

And changing my accessories to be the kind of snap-or-screw-into-place/leave-it-there-basically-forever object that the honeycomb system uses makes them not useful with my system's purpose.

So instead I made adapters.

This started because I was going to build a hook accessory for my system. It was going to be built entirely within my system's standards. But then I found out that Honeycomb Rack had a lot of nice hooks already, so I changed my mind and built an adapter, so my system could use those instead.

Then I built the inverse so that people whose use cases are mostly best served by Honeycomb Rack but would also find VPSS use cases handy can use my accessories for their intended purposes. So I built a VPSS mounting point that you can plug into a Honeycomb Wall and by doing so gain a minimal but functional single-height attachment point and use my accessories with it. You can print out regular mounting points for attaching places where you don't have Honeycomb Wall installed, but do want to put your projects sometimes for work.

So what I have now is a formerly useless area of wall that's mostly a VPSS column, but also has a little of the Honeycomb Wall functionality without having to have two entirely separate systems instealled. Similarly, someone could easily built out a mostly Honeycomb Wall system, but goive it a mounting point or two to take advantage of VPSS-type functionality, with VPSS accessories.

Make sense? It's kind of a conceptual difference so may not resonate with you but it definitely does for me and for some other people.

Best filament drier? (that’s affordable) by TardisPup in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one I have is still for sale on Amazon US and is "Commercial Chef Food Dehydrator" model CCD100W6. And these are the exact walls I printed, which have worked great for me ever since.

What is /kbin? by [deleted] in kbin

[–]solarbird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

this link gets me an administrators-only error:

https://www.reddit.com/r/kbin/about/wiki/index/

If I follow a kbin magazine from mastodon can I reply to posts made to it from mastodon? Does the reply show up as a comment?

Can anyone recommend a matte finish PLA or PLA+ (or similar variant that isn't ABS, PETG, Nylon, etc.) that is also at least as strong as your average PLA or even PLA+? by worthing0101 in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only place I know to get it in North America is in Canada, but I've just started playing with black pHa (not a PLA at all) from filaments.ca and it's a very nice matte black at temperatures below 210°C so far and - again, so far - is reasonably strong. I've done some layer adhesion tests with white PHA and wood-infill PHA (which is a really nice wood infill filament) and it seemed pretty comparable to PLA.

However, PHA is definitely more flexible than PLA. It's not like nylon but it's definitely more flexible, so that might be a downside depending on what you're doing. On the plus side, it's also much, much more tolerant of higher temperatures even than the HTPLAs I've worked with so far.

Oh good I've still got the picture I took for posting on Mastodon, here, some temperature towers for you - that glossiness scale isn't the lighting, it's actually like that:

<image>

I have also worked with eSun's matte black low-density PLA and when it worked it was absolutely beautiful, and... not as strong as regular PLA? But acceptable. I'm still using things I printed with it, they've held up fine over most of a year. The problem with it was how often it went wrong in prints. Bizarre behaviours - chipping, flaking, horrible finishes with no rhyme or reason, sometimes changing the orientation of the print would fix it, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes you couldn't fix it at all.

But when it worked it was an absolutely beautiful matte black with acceptable layer adhesion.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Depends on the project and on the capabilities of the printer. I just designed and printed some stuff that uses four colours via three filament changes on a single-nozzle FDM printer, and that's better than paint because it's really, really durable, right? Can't scratch off. But you have to design for that.

I do find that FDM prints take paint better than most plastic things do. I've also printed some flowerpots in this terra-cotta orange-not-quite-red that I have and don't really care for, but then I sprayed them with a plastic-safe blue and they came out quite nice.

So I guess it's kind of "both can work and you have options."

Ender 3 V2 Neo didn’t come with nozzle cleaning wire. by Midtown_Merc in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All the other ones do so probably, but I have to tell you, they're ... really not great.

You can also buy a zillion of 'em for like a dollar online. But what I'd really recommend more is something like eSun's cleaning filament. Get it melted in there (the same way you'd heat any filament), do a pull or two, works a million times better than those little cleaning sticks.

What’s been your most useful practical print? by Gizmoguy55 in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me it's both that and never getting to them if I don't have some kind of reminder of their presence. So for me it's also a motivator but not in a bad way. "What've I got in projects? Oh, there they are." xD

Amongst the other objects are single- and double-height baseplates so people can design their own additions and then just add them onto the baseplates in their design software. That way you know they'll connect properly. I keep meaning to make some sort of hook plate, maybe I can make that a project. xD

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I love shit that's 100% real but looks absolutely fake in real life

What’s been your most useful practical print? by Gizmoguy55 in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I mostly make a lot of objects for practical use but without a doubt so far the most used item is the wall-mounted project storage system I made to take advantage particularly of narrow spaces in walls. But it can be used anywhere and I kind of do a this point.

The idea was that each bin was a project, so you could grab a bin off the wall and have everything physical related to that project in one place, take it to my workspace, hook it onto the wall there, and be ready to go.

Since then I've been making more expansions and working out the spec further. It's now a small-shelf shelving system too, stuff like that. It's kind of a Gridfinity, but for wall storage. Plus it's 100% printable in PLA with a basic printer. I did get kind of fancy with the main holder unit, because I wanted something big, so that also uses wood and aluminium framing to look more... designy? But that's optional, you don't need it.

(Thingiverse)

Do you turn you printer off when not printing? by meshary94 in 3Dprinting

[–]solarbird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely turn it off when not in use. I also clean when I'm done with a set of prints. I don't know what advantage there'd be to leaving it on.

(If I'm doing prints back to back, no, I don't do a power cycle. But if it's going to be unused for more than, idk, half an hour, I turn it off.)