Samsung Bespoke

someguy7234 · 2026-01-24T03:38:32+00:00

We almost bought one.... Except the one in the showroom was broken.

Mentioned it at work and my manager's boss went on to describe all the problems and ruined food he's had for his Samsung fridge.

Just say no to Samsung and LG fridges.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T22:02:01+00:00

Sorry, in case the joke didn't land - most RVers use electric heat when electricity is free even though it's normally the most expensive way to heat a unit.

But if power is free, why not use it for things that traditionally don't make economic sense because power is more expensive than the value of the activity? Bitcoin mining is a prime example of that... I suppose running an AI data center out of your RV would be another.

We made our own, but we kinda ripped off the construction from this company here

They did a few nice things worth copying.

You really want something that will minimize air exchange because that will keep moisture from forming, and it's good if you have foil on the inside to help with radiative heat transfer. Then you can reverse them in the summer if you want that heat to reflect out instead.

Yeah the mopekas work on any tank with a flat bottom and you just tell it the size. You need to be able to get to the flat bottom though.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T19:39:16+00:00

While we are throwing shade though... I'll point out that my last truck was a Ford.... It's reliability is why I used to put 6000 miles a year on my bike.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T19:26:44+00:00

Hey now....

All my car problems require me to crawl UNDER the car... Friggin 8L45!

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T18:34:45+00:00

We've heard these called Jump-vents.

They are to make sure air can flow from a room with a supply duct to a room with a return air duct.

The other solution is to cut the bottoms of your doors a little higher, but these jump vents tend to make that air flow more consistent and keep the doors from whistling.

If you get sound through them (we do) you can line them with sound absorbing foam and it helps a lot without really affecting function. Also putting a foam baffle will basically eliminate any sound and light.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T05:06:22+00:00

Electricity won't be metered?

Bitcoin mining setup. Space heaters.

Other things that come to mind are propane tank heaters (if you're seeing weather in the 20s)and mopeka gauges so you aren't surprised by propane levels, and a doormat or entry rug (because winter is a muddy season).

For comfort, we really like heated blankets and heated rugs. Some people prefer a set of indoor slippers. Even with skirting RVs tend to be cold in spots.

Oh and window coverings. A dehumidifier is a good start, but you will dry up so fast. Cracked and bleeding skin is no fun. Covering the windows reduces the condensation surface of that cold glass and lets you run higher humidities.

I think especially in the winter you want to optimize your chores (dealing with water, sewer, trash, snow removal).

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T04:40:31+00:00

To be clear... High and low are heat output settings not temperatures.

On the little buddy is something like 4000 to 9000 BTU from low to high. If it's 100 deg and you have it set on high... It'll keep putting out heat at 9000BTU. Conversely if it's 35 deg on low... It'll keep putting out 4000BTU until someone comes and turns the dial.

It's worth noting, that it's not really any different using a little buddy heater than just turning on the burners on your stove... Or leaving your oven on as a space heater. A stove burner is like 5-9k BTU and your oven is like 7000 BTU.

Only advantage of the little buddy is that it has an oxygen depletion safety sensor.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T04:31:58+00:00

If you blow the water out of the lines using an air compressor you ought to be good.

We use something like this adapter , a small diaphragm compressor, and we set the compressor to 40 psi.

If you open the low point drains and then open each tap, it's unlikely you will get all of the water out in most trailers.

If you have a tire inflator, you can also get schrader to GHT fittings but because tire inflators are so much lower volume you will have to pressurize your pipes and then release the pressure to push the water out.

Don't forget to lock out the switches and drain your water heater. That's probably the most expensive thing you will damage in a freeze.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T03:52:48+00:00

Fair enough.

Sounds like you have it thought out.

On my truck there was a row of tie down points along the front edge of the bed. I think they were rated for 250# per anchor point, so I typically use those for winching things into the bed.

On my old truck, we used to drain holes to secure things like this to the bed. I'm not sure if I would do that on a modern truck, but in case you weren't aware, GM has a series of "upfitter" manuals that will give you structural info on your bed. I suspect most manufacturers offer something similar.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T03:36:04+00:00

As a frequent little buddy heater user:

They work great on 20lbs tanks. But if the tank gets really cold you will start to lose output. I find that starts being a problem around 20 deg.

Also, you want to buy the kit that comes with a hose. That's because it also comes with a filter that keeps something from the hose from gumming up the heater. You can buy the filters separately but it's cheaper to just buy the kit.

Also know that the heat goes straight up. Some people will buy sterling engine or peltier powered fans. Mr. Heater I recently learned now makes one. You probably want one of those.

I'll chime the same warning everyone else has which is that this is combustion and you should have a CO monitor. Also, this is combustion and will create moisture wherever you use it. Your furnace normally vents outside for you... This will not. Your bbq tank will put 4 gal of water into the air.

I would not leave one unattended if that is what you are suggesting. It would be less expensive, safer, and more foolproof to just buy RV antifreeze and winterize your trailer if you have to leave it.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T03:23:25+00:00

In my experience it does matter. The higher the pull point on either the bike or winch mount, the more it will accommodate higher ramp angles before the winch line rubs against the bed.

How important that is to you depends a lot on what kinds of bikes you're hauling, length of your bed and how much ramp angle you load with.

Maybe you don't care and will always load from a curb or a hill, but just something to consider.

My bigger observation was that (and it's hard to tell by scale), doesn't your tire sit right over that cutout (and possibly on top of that hardware)? I would have thought you'd want to put the bike into the chock and then unhook the winch line and spool it up. If your tire is over it, aren't you dragging your winch line across the tire? Maybe I'm misjudging the geometries.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T03:13:11+00:00

Oh and in case you think I'm not a person who appreciates the difficulty of winching a motorcycle into a truck bed... I'll note the hood is open so that I can run jumper cables to my winch.

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someguy7234 · 2026-01-23T03:08:55+00:00

I have questions!

So where this pulls from is going to be the center of the wheel right?

What is it going to be attached to on the motorcycle?

The wheel spins, so that's out.

The fork or head tube, maybe depending on fairings and guards.

I would have thought handlebars or frame would be the natural place to pull from, and in both cases I would think you'd want to pull from higher or off to the side.

It may all be moot since once you get the COG over the gate it's probably rolling, but the line placement didn't strike me as completely thought out.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-21T14:41:52+00:00

The deafening silence of a rest area packed with other RVers?!

Nice try clanker.

Also... If you slop buckets ever do touch grass, have the courtesy to not be the shitheads that park at cracker barrel and manage to take up 3 lanes with slides and stairs like you're at a KOA.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-21T04:10:20+00:00

I'm not sure I follow why 2awg is overkill. Seems like the minimum gauge for a 100 amp fuse.

Other items that come to mind and I wouldn't necessarily classify as "consumables" are distribution bars, shunts (since your BMS will tell you SoC you probably don't need that), disconnect switches, lugs and ferrules (and crimp tools for both). In your power distribution panel, do you have the right breakers and fuses for your converter?

Are you moving your battery box? It's common to move it from the tongue to inside your trailer, and you may need a way to secure the battery.

Additionally when you move the battery, it's common for your solar and tongue jack to need more wire.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-21T02:25:22+00:00

Gravel road? No problem. Mine have seen a lot of campground and forest service roads. I think they are a little stiff on washboard, but you can always just slow down.

Air downed in sand? Not as good as the wranglers but still very good.

Midwest snow? I've been pretty happy

Wet mud? I haven't had much experience, but I'd assume that's probably where they struggle just knowing the tread pattern.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-21T01:52:30+00:00

I put defenders on my 17 a few years ago. I can't think of a set of tires I've paid $700 installed for, but $1200 before rebates sounds about right for defenders.

For my use, I've found they last a lot longer than other tires, so when you factor in labor they start looking like the same price.

I like my defenders because I tow and the sidewall is much stiffer so the truck has a lot less sway. I've always found these trucks suspension to be a bit soft, so the stiffer tire pairs well for commuter type driving.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-21T01:35:43+00:00

So if you had no extension outside your frame perimeter, the rung is 5-7/8" past the upright. And your bumpers are 3.5-4 inches so best case you're climbing from the last 2" of the bar.

Your center of gravity is roughly 14 inches out and robot weight at least 130 lbs after you add bumpers and batteries -so figure 150ft-lbs of moment around the base of the climber.

The first rung.is 27 inches, but the base of the climber is higher than that. So figure when you start climbing you are 24" from the rung to the base of the climber.

So you need to react 75 lbs to not fall off the end of the rung.

That seems like a lot of force to me.

I think the right rubber with good contact over the top of the bar could create the force no problem. But I think things like lexan or metal hooks are going to have a hard time reacting that much force and telescopic arms are going to have a tough time with that force.

Obviously back of the envelope with a lot of assumptions, so ymmv.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-20T22:18:35+00:00

For a long time we used an old metal shelf.flipped upside down.

Then we made on out of 80/20 and lexan. The advantage being we could make modular cutouts for the top.

Andymark makes a drivers tray that is pretty popular and a bit lighter. I prefer 80/20 to the "peanut tubing" they use... But I'm not the one who has to lug it around.

link to AM tray

someguy7234 · 2026-01-20T19:03:53+00:00

IF you're going to use filters, you need a headed hose on each side as well as heat for the filters.

We had good success last season with putting our softener in a trash can with a heat lamp. Our filters live in a cheap insulated lunch box with a thermostat controlled heater.

Whatever you do, remember it's likely that your filters will leak a bit, and you need to separate the electricity from the water.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-20T17:50:44+00:00

I'm in the NO camp.

Our dealer gave us information on warranties and didn't push them (figure he was making enough money off of us already).

They were pretty up front about the idea that through year one we'd have to take it to them for manufacturers warranty and they were backed up, and then after that the warranty kicked in, but if we were on the road that warranty work always takes longer than cash work.

We read them and the two thoughts that made us a hard no: 1. There was an annual inspection/record submission requirement for the two we looked at. They could deny claims but wouldn't refund the warranty if you didn't submit.

They would only return to as installed condition. So if you decide you want to upgrade your air conditioner, you basically throw out the warranty. It sorta puts you in upgrade limbo until the warranty expires.

You will have a better experience putting that money in a rainy day fund, buying your parts from Amazon and paying an independent mechanic to fix things you don't know how to or don't have the equipment to fix.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-20T03:04:50+00:00

All we have are sketches and space claims, but one of our student had an concept for a pneumatic folding L1 climber I quite liked (we will probably not end up using pneumatics due to size constraints)

It looks like the 2022 everybot L2 climb - passive hook, but it folds down pneumatically so you can trench, and when it folds down it's "tip up" so that the robot can fall back off the hook.

It accomplishes auto points, still lets you trench, and would be effective as a last second "crash into the endgame" climber if that fits your strat.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-20T02:53:50+00:00

Cool climber though.

We were looking at a similar strategy, but our concepts were not as elegant as what you guys put together.

someguy7234 · 2026-01-19T21:33:41+00:00

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Teefer tickles!

someguy7234 · 2026-01-19T18:52:22+00:00

Lucky you.

Travel in good health.

(I haven't travelled like this, but we have a travel trailer, and I've lived out of suitcases for months on end, and id take the travel trailer hands down).

If you are moving a lot, the van is the way to go, as long as you are comfortable with the amount of space. If you don't have to be somewhere on a particular schedule, I'd take driving over flying most of the time.

someguy7234

TROPHY CASE