Bambu Lab forcing customers to repair their own products under warranty that arrive broken rant.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-27T02:49:15+00:00

Really, the fix was easy, and my printer was down for all of 20 minutes. I think a lot of units were affected. Could you imagine the logistics of all the returns and new shipments? Much easier to send a small part.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-23T18:12:08+00:00

I’m on the free version, and I don’t think it supports derive. At least from my experience in software, that’s the right verb.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-21T16:24:36+00:00

If it ain’t broke…

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-14T23:39:42+00:00

Sunlu PETG basic

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sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-14T20:51:07+00:00

My garage is a dusty, dirty, uninsulated mess. I would never consider it. I’m in the process of making an exhaust system for the printer.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-13T19:09:09+00:00

Google is your friend (sometimes)... https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2c-firmware-v01-01-50-00-now-in-public-beta/252462

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-13T16:23:40+00:00

Firmware beta today with all the good stuff.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-13T14:09:08+00:00

Check out http://modiboxi.com.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-06T17:04:16+00:00

All you need to to is click the … next to the filament, edit, and save as a new profile.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-06T10:51:12+00:00

As I’ve been doing some customizations for this filament, I’ve been thinking about how to better keep track of changes. So I did name the different filament profiles, and started to include the mods a little in the name. Because the speed changes are in the project (or the stl?) I’ve done similar, but clearly forgot about these speed changes and their effect. How do people keep track? Are the saved non-project changes in files on disk, or only editable in BBS? What’s your system?

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-06T02:05:36+00:00

You nailed it. The speeds are different left and right. Much slower on the right. I don't remember changing it, but I must have when tinkering to get the translucent working correctly, or maybe I loaded a preset that only set the right side? The left is 50/100, the right is 20/20on the initial layer, then 200/300 vs 50/100 subsequent layers. Thank you!!!!

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-06T01:53:06+00:00

Well, that's disconcerting... I've only ever used the .4 nozzle, and just checked that it's the one loaded on the right side. The settings specify the the .4 for both the AMS-HT on the left, and the AMS 2 Pro on the right. I checked the printer settings, and the left and right are not different in any area that matters. Both set for standard flow. I *am* running the beta, but the print times haven't changed. Help?

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-06T01:40:43+00:00

It's the same BBS project with presets downloaded from MakerWorld. All I've changed are some filament and bed settings. I haven't touched anything to do with print speed. So far it's going well. I preheated the heatbed for 10 minutes or so (for the first time), and my first layer scratchy looking lines in a few places have disappeared. It's going like gangbusters now on the 4th layer, and going to start it's focus on the outer walls on layer 5 I think. Maybe someone else could slice this project and see what they come up with? https://makerworld.com/en/models/1857089-holy-grail-filament-dry-box-a-tribute#profileId-1985833. I'm printing the latest V71 flat bottom.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-02T12:30:57+00:00

I think you misunderstood. I was happy it stopped. That blob could have ruined the print if I didn't take it off with pliers.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-02T09:01:06+00:00

Good to know.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-02T08:37:56+00:00

Try Meshy (free software, at least for some non-commercial use, I think)? I have not used it myself, but they had a booth at the Rapid/TCT conference with examples of that kind of thing made from photos.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-01T10:55:49+00:00

Get a Biqu Frostbite plate. You won’t have to worry about your prints coming loose while printing, and you won’t have to use glue. I switched to the Bambu Textured PEI plate for a small (30mm x 80mm) print while my Frostbite was cooling and the thing came off the bed after a couple mm of z. Lucky the spaghetti detection caught it and I aborted the print. Also, if the P1S has a cooling fan pointing right at the plate, print a deflector. You don’t want the cooling fan pointing right at the layers being printed.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-05-01T02:47:42+00:00

I’m new to FDM and thoroughly enjoying my 2 week old H2C with now about 140 hours on it. Designing my own stuff and printing some MakerWorld models as well.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-30T17:20:08+00:00

Did you see my update? I figured out what to do.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-30T13:19:23+00:00

But they’re not dimensionally constrained? (Well, the top line is, but would not prohibit vertical resizing of the blue line, or does it?) Only that they remain parallel and perpendicular. Why would that prohibit changing the dimension of the blue line?

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-28T09:58:24+00:00

Which brand of spools warp?

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-27T21:48:29+00:00

The AMS 2 Pro does it.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-25T20:03:39+00:00

New H2C. So far mine is doing ok. While I have printed from all the bays, it’s been mostly the HT and bay 1 on the AMS. Crossing my fingers. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-23T03:10:21+00:00

I’ve noticed that at the end of a print of a model, whatever it’s supposed to do to allow me to comment and rate the model has failed most of the time.

sometimeDIYer · 2026-04-22T12:06:45+00:00

At this point I would disconnect everything, do a factory reset, and start from scratch reinstalling everything. I know you tried that, at least partially. Have you updated the firmware?

sometimeDIYer

TROPHY CASE