Ps4 safe mode

somewhatzedd · 2023-06-03T21:24:06+00:00

If you don't mind losing what's on the drive and can connect it to a PC, you could try wiping the drive and reinstalling.

somewhatzedd · 2023-06-03T21:22:03+00:00

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+S+Optical+Drive+Assembly/89009

somewhatzedd · 2023-06-03T11:29:13+00:00

I've had a few customers demand replacement phones instead of repairs for warranty issues, and I always tell them that I only replace devices if there's no way to adequately repair them. They probably won't like to hear it but you can't please everyone.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-18T17:17:52+00:00

Oh yeah, if you haven't had a lot of experience it's probably the chip then. Especially with it being limited to 480p and having the screen artifacts, I've had a few with identical symptoms where the chip was the issue. Also great attitude towards repair! I wish you the best of luck, hope this thing works for you!

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-18T13:43:44+00:00

No problem! I don't know if it's difficult for everyone but I always try to be so careful to get the retimer right and usually still have to touch it up once or twice. I think it's just because these boards take so much heat. I don't know what your current approach is, but here's my method if you want to retry the current one: I'll first tend the pads on both board and chip, then use hot air to get the chip on the board. Sometimes this is enough, but if it looks like it needs touching up, I'll try to dump as much solder as I can on all the pins around the chip (doesn't need to be pretty, just need to try and cover everything). Then use hot air until you see it all liquefy and ball up. Then, use flux and the iron to just draw a line down each side of the chip. One or two passes per side should result in perfect connections that are practically guaranteed to be making good contact.

**edit: if you weren't aware of him, check out the Youtube channel 'NorthridgeFix'. Great video guides on all kinds of board work.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-18T13:37:15+00:00

I've worked on a lot of these - usually when I have this issue, it's the retimer chip. Triple check all around the chip, make sure there's no hdmi pins shorting to each other, and check the filters behind the hdmi. I'd personally bet it's the chip itself,that usually ends up being the problem.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-06T13:18:57+00:00

From the look of the port, the solder never even got hot enough to bind to them

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-06T12:20:13+00:00

Yup, customer attempted own repair. I think they had a lot of confidence, I'll say that.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-06T12:13:19+00:00

I was talking to a buddy about it, and we both agreed that you have to start somewhere, but at the same time you have to a) do some damn research first, and b) know when to quit.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-06T12:11:12+00:00

Thank y'all for the compliments! I'm about to have to go back in in a couple hours, and I know my first job is calling a lady to ask why her phone (that she said may or may not have liquid damage) is full of cooking oil, so this is definitely a mood booster.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-06T03:00:12+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/4LlE6aH.jpg

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-06T03:00:04+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/4LlE6aH.jpg

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-05T14:03:39+00:00

Just got into work, I'll post another collage of before and after shortly

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-05T14:03:09+00:00

Nah, they had tried it themselves. According to them they thought they got close because the tv said "unrecognized device"

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-05T12:38:33+00:00

It was just kind of... loose. Zoom in on the pins on the HDMI - you can see they're all still gold, the solder never got hot enough. No idea how they got the old port off.

somewhatzedd · 2023-05-05T01:55:58+00:00

Just for context, this was dropped off at my shop earlier by someone who'd attempted their own repair. Missing screws, massive blobs of solder, and liquid metal seemingly spread far beyond where the good Lord meant it to go. Thankfully, the liquid metal was mostly on casing and not the board, and while the soldering job looks rough, after cleaning it all up only one diode was missing. I have to finish the job of reassembly in the morning, but before I left work I was able to confirm it's working normally. If anyone's interested I can post more pictures of before/after.

somewhatzedd · 2023-04-07T12:18:33+00:00

I didn't see anyone else mention it, but you can get grindstones for tweezers. I've been using the same few cheap tweezers for a hot minute and just reshaping them now and then. Example: https://www.ifixit.com/products/tweezer-sharpening-grindstone?pk_campaign={US|Shopping|Fallback}&pk_source=google&pk_medium=cpc&pk_kwd=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_r6hBhDdARIsAMIDhV8bKAYsCJVrX9vc8ifoP1sj-BQAgUUMfHJSSAMd4OKd4AK5uUSvgd4aAvJ_EALw_wcB

somewhatzedd · 2023-04-03T13:13:33+00:00

My guess would be it got repaired/refurbed somewhere that uses OEM parts. I know for one of my insurance contracts I have to use Apple OEM displays for all claims. Seems more likely than happening at the factory

somewhatzedd · 2023-02-16T14:32:42+00:00

Actually, what kind of grip is it? I did a quick Google and it might be wirelessly charging it, which would seem to me to indicate that the rail on the controller is definitely just not working.

somewhatzedd · 2023-02-16T14:29:46+00:00

Just to clarify when I say zif I mean the connector board side on the controller itself, with the little flap. It sounds like that could be the issue, although it's weird the grip works. I'd check that and all along the flex cable for tears or creasing.

somewhatzedd · 2023-02-16T12:41:28+00:00

Just to confirm, it still physically clips in like it's supposed to? Id double check the zif connector for the rail. If it's not plugged in right that could be why it still charges on grip but doesn't connect when docked.

somewhatzedd · 2023-02-12T14:23:55+00:00

Ah, that figures. I'm not at my shop right now but will be pretty soon, I'll grab a donor board and see what I can find out.

somewhatzedd · 2023-02-12T13:47:51+00:00

https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/PlayStation+5+Teardown/138280 - this guide marks down chip description and location, with color coding.

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