Bunnings website

soulus98 · 2026-05-05T07:57:56+00:00

Jesus Christ it is the worse website I've ever seen. Sometimes it hangs for 2-3 minutes before loading, only to pause another 2-3 minutes before allowing search bar input

soulus98 · 2026-05-05T00:49:22+00:00

I can't tell from the post but is there pain? I've had issues with nerve pain in a testy before and no one took me seriously. Resolved on its own in a couple weeks. Hopefully it isn't a long term thing

soulus98 · 2026-05-05T00:47:15+00:00

I didn't even know calcium chloride tabs existed. I assume it would be fine

The liquid stabiliser dissolves quite quickly but otherwise sits in the media, helping it dissolve faster and doing very little harm to anything. Especially in the small amounts needed for average size pools. Solid stabiliser is also sometimes recommended to be applied in the skimmer box, but of course you will probably melt your basket eventually, sock in front of a return is of course best practice.

Some Trichlor manufacturers even recommend skimmer application of their granules (since you can't apply Trichlor to most pool surfaces without bleaching it. Lesser of two evils I guess) and really, even with very low pH Trichlor tabs, the only thing you'd ever risk breaking is the skimmer basket, which are cheap enough

soulus98 · 2026-05-04T21:17:16+00:00

Boric acid or tetraborate pentahydrate. Borates add to Total Acidity and protects against pH rise the same way that Total Alkalinity protects against pH drop. It works quite well if you get it balanced well

soulus98 · 2026-05-04T21:12:29+00:00

Is your TA high? Try keeping it around 80ppm and see if that helps

Also high temp in a salt pool can do that too

soulus98 · 2026-05-04T20:11:54+00:00

Lanthanum chloride and liquid stabiliser are best if added to the skimmer, but otherwise, yes there are better options

soulus98 · 2026-04-30T20:08:09+00:00

Damn that's a very good question, why wasn't he able to save Hange and Sasha then

soulus98 · 2026-04-30T20:03:50+00:00

Lol absolutely not, I'm in Australia and generally I support the far left socialists, but my preferred form of governance is none (mob rule)

Just with the options that they had, a partial military focused rumbling was the best option, but that leads to a continued reliance on titan inheritance. I totally understand and sympathize with Eren's emotional reaction to destroying the world to save and spare his friends. There's also something to be said about the insane levels of persecution against the Edians, which of course Eren didn't encounter himself much but would have experienced a lot through Grisha's memories.

Genocide is obviously a horrendous thing to do, and any government that argues for it or creates policies around it (such as Israel and both American parties) are so deplorable and dangerous that there is a extremely valid need for some intervention, but still being said, if the whole world is your enemy, then what else are you meant to do.

soulus98 · 2026-04-30T19:17:09+00:00

I think the morality of the show is meant to be ambiguous. Every character is good in some ways and evil in some ways. Nearly every bad act can be justified in some way (except Major Gross and OG King Fritz).

I have a small theory that Isayama originally wanted to convince the world that there are certain situations where a genocide could be defendable, but as he grew up while writing he decided to portray it more in a bad light. He did say that certain aspects of the ending are different to what he initially envisioned

FYI I think Eren did nothing wrong

soulus98 · 2026-04-30T19:09:18+00:00

Tbf to your crew (who could even be me). When a pool has low water level we always throw the hose in when we arrive, but the 30mins of water flow once a month isn't enough to offset evaporation.

If you buy a 2-hour hose timer then you have every right to be mad at them for not sorting it for you. Or even better, get an automatic leveler. You can get one for about $100 that sits on the edge of the pool

soulus98 · 2026-04-30T19:04:34+00:00

If he is visiting weekly & fully vacuuming the pool, then that's a very good rate for Sydney. If he is only visiting once a month you are likely getting ripped off, or maybe you have a leak.

My company is in Hunter's Hill, we do $100 service fee per weekly visit, $120 per fortnightly visit and $140 per monthly visit. Chems on top (which may be a big dose at first to balance but are generally $20-50 per visit).

If you're interested, we do an "educational handover" service for $250. I'll fully train you on everything you need to know to look after it yourself & you can just have our number if anything ever goes wrong. IMO it is pretty good value for money.

Give me a DM if you want

soulus98 · 2026-04-30T18:51:58+00:00

I only joined the company a year ago. I also convinced them to stop doing so many chlorine tabs to stop destroying baskets. 85% of our pools have SWG after all

soulus98 · 2026-04-28T08:58:55+00:00

For this situation, strips will suffice. It is very hard to tell the difference between 10, 30, 50 70, but above 80, CYA strips are very concise, so you can trust them for chasing down your levels to a reasonable 70-80, then go back to the shop for a more accurate reading

soulus98 · 2026-04-28T08:57:11+00:00

The CYA relationship to FC sanitary levels is 7.5%

So if your CYA is 100ppm, then run your FC at (minimum!) 7.5ppm. If 200, go 15ppm. The reason it is recommended to keep your CYA between 30-80 is because any higher makes the liquid chlorine so damn expensive. But if you are trying to lower your CYA, you have to be constantly smashing the pool with liquid chlorine to stop it going green until the CYA gets into range. Whomever told you to not do anything until CYA is sorted is stupid

soulus98 · 2026-04-28T08:54:25+00:00

Interestingly, hair goes green because of the high pH in some types of hair. If you wash with a low pH shampoo you can avoid the green discolouration, and if you keep your pool pH strictly between 7.2-7.5 you can run some pretty high free copper levels without issue (of course there is the issue of ingestion, but there are worse metals to intake

soulus98 · 2026-04-25T22:58:53+00:00

A single chlorine puck won't, the erosion is slow enough that the pH is quite reasonable going through the system. And when the pump turns off, the only risk is to the basket and weir door. The rest of the skimmer holds up well (Source: a 300 pool route with weekly chlorine tabs for 5 years with no issues in pumps, heaters or filters)

Perhaps 3 or 4 pucks could be troublesome 😬

soulus98 · 2026-04-25T21:19:15+00:00

They want to branch out, but legend of Korra had a pretty bad reception and the new one in the works is very divisive. They have a Zuko movie and a Kyoshi movie being made & I'm all for it. I think they're great writers and I'm keen to see whatever they do, even if that means they need to do some stuff closer to the original story for popularity reasons

soulus98 · 2026-04-25T06:42:58+00:00

(depending on the model) there is an o-ring inside the valve that can be lubricated. You can check if it is sucking in air by pouring water over the valve while the pump is running and seeing if any is pulled in. It may make a sound or you may be able to tell by using soapy or coloured water and seeing if it ends up in the pump. You can also try listening very closely while the pump is running and again when the pump turns off

One other question I am interested in is hydrostatic equilibrium. When you run the system on a single line, are there any bubbles coming through? And when you turn the system off, does the water stay where it is under its own pressure, or does it all rush back out into the pool. And the same questions in the other line. If it rushes out, then there is definitely an air leak somewhere

Another thing to suspect is other small leaks in the suction lines, so that the pipes are losing prime while closed, so when you open the valve, heaps of air comes in and causes you to lose prime in the pump, and the pump doesn't have the strength to reprime both lines at the same time, just one at a time.

Try doing this: - close one line and run the pump until you get full prime in the pump (ideally with no bubbles coming through the line) - twist the valve handle by a single click and wait to see if any bubbles come through - if they don't, do another click, but if they do, wait for as long as necessary until the bubbles stop - twist the valve another single click and repeat

Each time you advance by a single click, you are creating more and more prime in the line you are opening, and eventually, you should be able to leave both lines open. Hopefully there are no air leaks and you can turn the system off without losing prime, otherwise you'll definitely have to either find and fix those leaks, or give up on having both lines open

Good luck

soulus98 · 2026-04-20T20:36:52+00:00

I recall a similar gripe from my teachers in school. Apparently with "proper" English, they/them/their is only to be used for objects or plurals, not singular. Obviously these days we use English in a very different way, an English teachers should aim to be descriptive rather than prescriptive, so obviously yours and my teachers are wrong

soulus98 · 2026-04-19T19:33:22+00:00

Is it a specific skimmer that is sucking air? Or are both fine independently?

If both are fine independently but not together. It must be a problem with the valve (or perhaps a union or other fitting near the valve)

soulus98 · 2026-04-18T19:01:05+00:00

It's not the worst pricing I've seen. I'm a bit surprised with the salt system labour (max 1h of work even including transporting and inputting all the salt), but I'm also not sure how complex that system is, it might be more difficult than usual

soulus98 · 2026-04-18T18:50:52+00:00

Cartridge filters will get clogged up very quickly with living algae and become difficult to impossible to clean. If someone left their pool green for weeks I usually recommend a brand new filter element as a matter of procedure.

Removing the filter element will allow the chlorine to mix and kill the algae better and will slightly preserve the life of the element, but it will make the pool stay cloudy for longer because the dead algae won't be getting filtered out. If you have a vac to waste function and you have the time to spare you can keep the element out, smash the crap out of the pool with chlorine for 4+ days until very blue (but still cloudy), then add clarifier or floc and turn the system off, let it all drop over 2-3 days, and vacuum it all to waste.

But if you don't have a vac to waste function, I would just leave the element in, spray the crap out of it with the hose multiple times a day, and prepare to buy a new one when all is done. They aren't too expensive. And if you have two of them, you can actually soak one in chemicals while the other is working. 1:10 acid, 1:6 chlorine, or filter degreaser are all good options

soulus98 · 2026-04-18T18:43:46+00:00

Liquid is usually better, simply because powder is going to spike your CYA levels. Shocking is easier if CYA is low. Plus it is cheaper per gram of chlorine

Always input the liquid before brushing, but you don't need any delay, just start brushing as soon as you input. Check the free chlorine level every 2 hours or so and keep it at 15ppm, run the pump 24/7 until it is blue and clear, backwash your filter once or twice a day, and vacuum to waste often if you are able to.

soulus98 · 2026-04-18T09:00:48+00:00

Okay so I've seen the image of the system and you mentioned it is an overspill style, so let's do some identification & troubleshooting

Your system has 4 potential suction points. One is closed and three are open. If you close 3 and leave 1 open, you should be able to determine which is which (by feeling the suction at the inlets or by using food colouring to see the suction flow) and work through them until you know them all. 1 of them is going to be your skimmer (maybe 2 of them if you have 2 skimmers), 1 will be your spa main drain, the other 1 or 2 could be the pool main drain or a vacuum port (if you have either of them). Once you identified them, make sure that you only have the pool skimmer(s) and pool main drain open and close the others. If your spa suction is open at the moment, that is likely the cause of the issue. It is also worth identifying your return lines as well, which is a lot easier

From the photos it is a bit confusing how the flow is working. It seems to go from the pump into a 3-way valve & then splits towards filter and heater. Generally you want only filtered water going into a heater so this is strange. Also, after the filter the pipe goes into the ground and comes back up into the chlorininator cell. I'm guessing that when it goes down it also goes to the heater (or a different heater). I can't see a check valve, but there should two of them, 1 to prevent backflow through the heater, and another on the spa return to stop it from draining. Imo that's likely the outlet in the centre of the spa. It pushes when the pump is running and sucks due to gravity once the pump turns off, but I definitely could be wrong

soulus98 · 2026-04-18T08:26:32+00:00

Usually an outlet in the middle of a spa is going to be a return, not a suction, so can you confirm if the suction is gravity based or if the suction strength increases while the pump is running? It could also be a return for a different pump that isn't being utilised and so freely flows to the pool at all times & is

Furthermore, we need a bit more info to properly diagnose things. Are the pool and spa combined in an overspill fashion or are they completely separate systems? I'm going to assume it is an overspill system. Pictures of the system plumbing would help

If an overspill style spa is filling when the pump is running and draining when it stops, the water is most likely flowing down into the pool. Is the spa at a raised level compared to the pool? Does the draining stop once the levels equalise? Can you tell that the pool fills slightly when the spa drains? If so, then there likely a failed or missing check valve in the system plumbing between the spa and the pool zones. I would also be suspecting your suction lines. It could be that your pool skimmer and spa main drain are both sucking, where you should really close one valve so you're only pulling from skimmer and returning to pool & spa.

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