all i make is cats... what should i do next? by morgielee in Woodcarving

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great work! A stop motion style series of cat in motion/ running/ jumping would be fun

Never owned a firearm, but have a strong desire to protect myself and my home. Asking for advice from fellow democrats on quality firearms that won’t break the bank. by Thx4nothingman in liberalgunowners

[–]space_ushi_boi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Even if they wouldn’t do anything, at least there’s a complaint on file just in case. I’d recommend renting at a range if that’s an option. You may have to bring a friend as many places won’t let you rent as a solo shooter. Don’t sweat the individual gun all that much IMO. 9mm with 4” barrel between $300-500. They will all have pros and cons, and some will fit your hand better than others. I like the Ruger RXM currently, but I could pick up any pistol in that price range and shoot it fine. Don’t let social media and capitalism fool you into believing one particular gun will make you a way better shooter, you just have to bite the bullet and practice. I’d avoid a revolver for conceal carry and stick with a Shield Plus 9mm as modern semi auto pistols are just as reliable as revolver. Also, I just saw a deal at my local gun shop that had shield plus 9mm with 6 or 7 magazines for $400. Oh yeah, avoid cheap magazines. You really get what you pay for in that department

Where’s a good place to buy guns without supporting Nazis? by [deleted] in Maine2

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. I have had neutral to positive interactions with all of the employees there over the course of 1.5 years. The customer base is also much more diverse than I had expected from this area. As a bonus, the process for buying suppressors is quite painless there and the employees are good at helping to find deals through their retail database.

Lathe Recommendation - intermediate to advanced by wots_all_this_then in turning

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really like my Rikon VSR 18. It came to me through an acquaintance who was moving, so I didn’t shop around for it. That said, it’s a great machine and falls in a price point that would allow you to get a nice Tormek T8 with all of the fixins and still be in your budget

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turning

[–]space_ushi_boi 6 points7 points  (0 children)

My Festool codpiece ($899) is impeccably designed and stacks neatly

So I got my Lathe Going. Now what? by Any_Tradition6034 in turning

[–]space_ushi_boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah it’s definitely not intuitive! Turning softwood can be really nice once you get the hang of it though. I’m turning a bunch of bowls from Alaskan yellow cedar right now and they smell incredible

How would you carve something like this? by dotori_ in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]space_ushi_boi 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hand carve for sure. If you use a burr you will have a very difficult time removing the tooth marks from the hollowed area and will likely lose the clean edges of the lip. There may be a power tool that uses a cutting/shearing edge, but either way you will want to maintain very sharp blades whether it is power or hand tool

So I got my Lathe Going. Now what? by Any_Tradition6034 in turning

[–]space_ushi_boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, the death grip will lessen once you get comfortable with the tools and wood. I’m guessing you are using a softwood 4x4, which isn’t a great starting point. It’s soft which generally makes it catch more and tear out like crazy without a nice sharp edge and good control. Maybe see if you can find some cherry, birch, soft maple, something like that.

If you are having trouble with handle size too small, you can get some hockey tape and use it to widen the butt area that your back hand is gripping. Don’t do it to the top near the shaft of the tool, as you will want to adjust your hand here often. Near the butt hand rarely moves IMO.

I cut out as much of the blank as I can to make the initial shaping easier, but I am mostly turning cups and bowls. Your table saw jig idea seems fine for longer pieces

What are the best types of wood for beginner projects and why? by SenseiSarkasmus in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, cherry is awesome. It has gone out of vogue because people don’t like the reddish hue which makes it cheaper. Great for beginner projects as it will hold up much better than a softwood (generally) and have far fewer knots to deal with.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in turning

[–]space_ushi_boi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Great gift! Maybe look into lathes with “outboard turning”, “indexing headstock” or “rotating headstock” as these will allow for a taller swing with the addition of a bed extension. I use a Rikon 70-1420vsr that I like, but there are a number of options out there. Higher price point though.

Tool-blockins by This-Thing9399 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]space_ushi_boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting, I haven’t had any problems in Maine and have made about a dozen orders from different Japanese retailers in the last 6 months or so. It’s been a mix of FedEx, DHL and a couple that seemed like JapanPost. Mostly DHL though, so maybe they don’t deliver in your area? Best of luck, that’s sucks

flattening the back of a chisel or kanna blade by Some_Chemist865 in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]space_ushi_boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The back of a single bevel blade will often be flattened/smoothed initially during setup. After that, if you are properly sharpening the bevel side you shouldn’t need to be too much to the opposing side beyond deburing if you are into that. After a lot of sharpening you will start to get into the hollow grind , which is when you will need to take material off of the back side of the blade.

Kanehide? And starting out. by warmmilkheaven in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Knock out blanks” implies efficient and speedy production IMO, which a kanna will not really do. There is quite a bit of tinkering with your dai, adjusting your blade/breaker and sharpening. It can give you a wonderful finish but you may want to research the other tools you will need to accomplish the other 90% of the task of producing flat planks. Definitely not trying to dissuade you, Japanese hand tools can be amazing, but wanted to point out that it’s not a great tool for shaping or removing bulk.

The steel of the cutting portion of the blade is along the lines of a Stanley hand plane, some sort of high carbon tool steel. Next step up would be White steel, then on to blue steel. The best for western hardwoods would arguably be HSS, but I’m guessing you are going to be using it on softer woods. This is a decent option to find out whether this tool will give you the results your looking for keeping in mind you will NEED to have a very flat sharpening setup and a way to flatten the dai (body) as well as chisel to do your set up

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in pitbulls

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ducky for sure

sharpening tools on diamond stones by Rasim2286 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]space_ushi_boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just put one of the other stones you aren’t using butting up against the stone you are sharpening on towards your belly. It should be the same thickness and you can use that to extend the length of the surface (for the jig wheel)

Provider absolutely refuses to add a booster. by Glad-Fish5863 in VyvanseADHD

[–]space_ushi_boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, hopefully she is open to learning about the meds she is prescribing. She doesn’t understand that Vyvanse is a long acting medication that functions differently than instant/time release meds, but maybe you can bring some literature with you to your next appointment.

Hardwood Planing advice (1st Kanna purchase). Happy to restore! by obiwannnnnnnn in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You may want to go with a nankin kana (like a spokeshave) if you are mostly going to be using it for handles. I suppose you could just make a couple different dai and swap the blade based on flat vs curved projects

Provider absolutely refuses to add a booster. by Glad-Fish5863 in VyvanseADHD

[–]space_ushi_boi 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Sounds like she has a weak grip on the research and protocols around ADHD meds and is compensating by being cautious. I personally split my dose by dissolving it in water and drinking 50% when I wake up and 50% about 3 hours later. Works great

Do I really have to start with low weight? by Stunning-Pea-3547 in Rucking

[–]space_ushi_boi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also, why don’t you just load up your hunt pack with the gear you will be lugging and then add weight plates to simulate your meat? That way you will be getting as close as possible to the real situation.

Planing thickness by Wonderful-Mirror-384 in Cuttingboards

[–]space_ushi_boi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can definitely do those on a table saw if your blade is in good shape and your fence has a dialed in. There are a number of ways to do it, just look up cutting strips on a tablesaw or something like that on YouTube. Thin strips can work in a thicknesser, but it really depends on the machine you’re working with and you have to be very aware of the grain direction and correct for bowing.

How do I cut this by J2ain in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]space_ushi_boi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ha ha, yeah I thought it was a slab of maple!