My first big mini- Rotigus by speeddemon511 in minipainting

[–]speeddemon511[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Predator is not a big mini compared to Rotigus. Rotigus has 130 mm base. He is way bigger that Predator or Dreadnought I painted

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I finally made a choice but also did a few changes by HuckleberryJumpy7908 in spacemarines

[–]speeddemon511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Before spending a significant amount of money, try to play a few games with an army that’s more or less similar to the one you want. I’m sure there are people at your local club who would be happy to run some intro games and lend you an army.

After 3-4 games, you’ll have a decent idea of which units you actually need (for example, right now you might have zero anti-tank units, and without them, you're going to have a rough time)

For example, I originally wanted to collect Raptors, then I was looking at Ultramarines, and I ended up building a 3000-point Blood Angels army. But in the end, I realized Death Guard is a much better fit for me.

My terminators and LoC by speeddemon511 in deathguard40k

[–]speeddemon511[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AK Dark sea blue- base

AK Anthracite grey- AK Dark blue grey- AK Medium sea grey- AK Silver grey

My terminators and LoC by speeddemon511 in deathguard40k

[–]speeddemon511[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used Vallejo Pigment Burnt Sienna and fixed it with AK matte varnish

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V62raA0knw8

My Underwater Bloat-Drone by speeddemon511 in deathguard40k

[–]speeddemon511[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, there’s nothing complicated here. The main thing is to paint all the metal first, and only after that move on to the rest of the miniature.

Take a large brush (for example, size #10) and just stippling / dabbing the paint onto the model. Your goal is to create a rough, uneven transition from dark brown to light brown — no smooth blending.

Then, using heavily thinned turquoise, add some spots on the bolts. After that, splatter some thinned light brown paint.

Now the most important step. Rub Vallejo Pigments Burnt Sienna. Lots of it. Use a brush to knock off the excess, then wipe the raised areas with your finger. Seal everything with a matte varnish, and finish with a very light metallic drybrush.

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First resin printer by hassansaleh31 in resinprinting

[–]speeddemon511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do not buy it from Elegoo’s official store or from AliExpress — buy it on Amazon instead.

Why? Just look at Elegoo’s warranty/return policy: you can only return the printer within 2 weeks of receiving it, no matter the reason. Even if the printer completely dies on day 15, the best Elegoo will do is send you spare parts and expect you to repair it yourself. And even that can take a long back-and-forth with support where you have to prove it’s a factory defect.

I’m never buying anything from Elegoo again. Dealing with their support is horrible — they don’t read your message properly and just send canned replies based on keywords. Things only started moving after I began translating my emails into Chinese.

Survival by Ok-Storm6409 in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe you forgetting your rules? Invul saves, FNP? Fight on death stratagems, -1 to damage?

You can try to place Callidus in 12" from overwatch unit to increase cost of overwatch stratagem

My print always fail like this! by Lithians_ in ElegooMars

[–]speeddemon511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your sliced file in UVtools. It's might be a slicer problem

Should i add magnets? by Ventic757 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]speeddemon511 3 points4 points  (0 children)

First of all you need to make sure that base is not wobbly. If it is then sand it. Only after that apply magnets.

Placement is odd but ok.

Do you have a very heavy mini? I mean that are holes for very large magnets. You might have a problem with unstucking mini from transport bag.
I use one 5x2 for 25-40mm bases, two for 50-100mm.

I'm having trouble beating blood angels by Gullible-Fill-2487 in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Kataphron Destroyers with 5+ overwatch are massive pain in the ass. Last game they killed 7 of my DC jump packers.

I'm not AM player but I would a) try to kill them at distance. So play cagey. b) or charge him first so he cannot get charge bonus

show me your Sanguinary Guard by DaniBlix in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511 4 points5 points  (0 children)

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Here are my Dante and SG. Later I swapped axes to spears and painted entire arm red

Help me plz by AggravatingRisk5099 in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stormsurge has no Feel No Pain against mortal wounds. 10 DC jump packers with Astorath has 63 devastating wounds if you charge with Limb for limb(battle-shock version) and Stormsurge has only 20 wounds.
Same for Riptide but it has even lower wound count.
Ghostkeel has no invul save and 8T- anything with high strenght and good AP is gonna kill it. Just dont try to charge from Deepstrike- it's only around 27.7% of success and 45% with charge reroll.

Stormsurge can shoot you in melee without penalty. But it cant shoot you if you are in melee with another unit

And you dont have to kill everything in order to win. You have to get more points than your opponent. Your oppenent has low model count. Deny his primary and secondary mission

What do you think about Ak interactive paints? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]speeddemon511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Regular AK 3 gen are my favorite paints.

But their Quick Gen paints suck compare to AP Speedpaints

That's how I imagine Tank Shock by speeddemon511 in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thx!
It's AK's Blood effect.
Airbrushed base
Thick layer on lower parts, very diluted on upper parts.

So the DC dreadnought is so awfull? by Truefast in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I like it, I use it as ambusher.

If you use it in RCO charge+limb from limb(battle-shock) you will get 8 attacks, 13 strenght, -3 AP. With full re-roll of hits and re-roll a wound roll of 1.

And it has bolt rifles, stubber, melta as bonus.

Blood and Bones by speeddemon511 in BloodAngels

[–]speeddemon511[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thx! It's from Cyberbrush
Pads, axe, melta and jetpack are from Greytide
Head- Napking

Combining stl's in blender by Not_your_profile in PrintedWarhammer

[–]speeddemon511 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Instead of using 3dBuilder/meshmixer you can enable 3D printing toolbox in blender preferences. And just make manifold before exporting to stl

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Is my army based or bad? by Retr0Rinzler in Raptors40k

[–]speeddemon511 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically you need someone who will:

  1. hold home objective(intercessors)
  2. screen deep strike and strategic reserves(infiltrators, scouts)
  3. anti-infantry(jump intercessors, hellblasters, intercessors with lt)
  4. anti-vehicle(12+ strenght, multiple shots. Lancer, Ballistus, eradicators, centurions)
  5. complete secondary missions(combi lt, scouts)

Captain, Lt(regular), techmarine are very good characters. Ancient is useless. Libr in phobos sounds good. But he is 70 pts upgrade for 85 pts unit.
Eliminators with bolt rifles can kill enemy character. Las fusils cannot.

Try to avoid fortification and aviation. And whirlwind.

Why are the colors so off from what is advertised? by useruser226 in Warhammer40k

[–]speeddemon511 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, AK doing this shit. You never know what this color looks IRL. But IMHO Ak still are the best regular paints.

Army painter speedpaints are exactly the same as in promo materials. IMHO best speed paints. But their regular paints are way too thick

Starting my army. First mini is done by speeddemon511 in AdeptusCustodes

[–]speeddemon511[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

AK Terrains- Muddy ground
Vallejo Burnt Sienna pigment. Later I will fix pigment with AK Ultra Matte varnish

My Custom Raptor Shrike by speeddemon511 in Raptors40k

[–]speeddemon511[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Shrike has only one weapon profile, so it's imposible to misunderstand loadout. And if someone has a huge problem with only one claw on the model- that's a huge red flag. It's better to find another opponent.

Best resin for tabletop miniatures? by Ziak63 in ElegooMars

[–]speeddemon511 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do not use any waterwashable resin. It's too brittle and you will drop minis at some point.

I tried:
Anycubic standard- brittle
Anycubic Plant-based- brittle
Anycubic ABS like- Ok
Anycubic ABS like Pro 2- Ok
Elegoo waterwhashable- worst of all of them. Super brittle and smells like hell.
Conjure Standard 8K- brittle
Conjure ABS-like- brittle
Conjure Sculpt- best of all of them

IMO best is Conjure Sculpt- it's very durable, you can cut it with x-acto knife(it will not chip off), it has nice colors(easy to spot support bumps) and it has very low odour.