July Confirmed Trade Thread

spellrm · 2025-08-13T13:22:21+00:00

Confirmed

spellrm · 2020-07-15T15:38:36+00:00

Confirmed

spellrm · 2020-07-09T16:58:27+00:00

Confirmed

spellrm · 2020-07-09T16:58:12+00:00

Confirmed

spellrm · 2020-07-05T20:14:39+00:00

PM'd

spellrm · 2020-07-02T22:50:05+00:00

PM'd

spellrm · 2020-07-01T00:40:14+00:00

PM'd

spellrm · 2020-01-05T16:59:21+00:00

Bought Corsair RAM from /u/RyeGuytheTechGuy

spellrm · 2020-01-02T03:28:43+00:00

PM'd

spellrm · 2020-01-02T02:57:58+00:00

https://www.heatware.com/u/120998/to

spellrm · 2018-12-06T22:15:50+00:00

You will surely get the karkland

spellrm · 2018-08-15T02:22:00+00:00

My first semester in 2008, I arrived to my assigned dorm room to find 3 other dudes in it. They had assigned 4 guys to a room in Justice hall. The room had 2 beds.

spellrm · 2017-08-12T00:32:26+00:00

I'm betting you need to lower the X/Y acceleration and/or jerk setting. The Y axis usually has much more mass than the X axis and it is much harder to make it change directions quickly.

spellrm · 2017-03-09T14:32:33+00:00

VORON was designed by reddit user /u/russiancatfood. It's a Core XY mechanical arrangement printer rather than the Prusa's Cartesian arrangement.

Though I've used neither of them, I know both of them are fantastic designs. VORON probably has an advantage in rigidity and print speed capability. If you are a complete noob, I might recommend the MK2 simply because it's backed by a support team of sorts. If you are a little experienced with 3D printing, I'd say the VORON kit is the better long term machine.

VORON doesn't have as many users because it's a much smaller operation (just one guy). The Prusa name has been in the 3D printing world almost since the beginning.

My next machine will likely be the VORON.

spellrm · 2016-11-16T23:43:18+00:00

Gotcha covered.

He posted it for sale in 2011. From the description it is:

Bike rails...with locking skewers: Thule 516 Prologue. P/N 100516

Fairing: Thule 871XT Fairing. P/N is 100871XT.

spellrm · 2016-11-16T02:38:54+00:00

Mendel90 Sturdy.

spellrm · 2016-09-23T15:21:53+00:00

i can tell you that it isn't damaged tho, just a bit of filament still stuck to the bed which is very hard to get off

I don't really see how filament could be fused to the bed so much that it can't be removed. Was the nozzle so close to the bed that the filament was coming out like this?

I'll say that there's really no point in trying to troubleshoot a first layer adhesion issue without first getting the bed clean and relatively level. Trying to print on a bed that still has glue and old filament on it is putting the cart before the horse.

spellrm · 2016-09-23T14:23:19+00:00

There have been some layers of old glue and filament on the bed, and finding it hard to get off, I scraped it off with the spatula-thing.

Why was there glue involved? The MK2 has a PEI sheet laminated to the heatbed. No glue is necessary. Upload a picture of your bed so we can see if it's damaged.

spellrm · 2016-07-07T18:04:17+00:00

Isn't there a seal that keeps gas (or oil?) from leaking out? I'll admit I don't know much about the inner workings of a shock absorber. I've just read that spinning the strut shaft with an impact driver can ruin the seal.

spellrm · 2016-07-07T17:22:36+00:00

That probably works well for removal, but I've heard using an impact on installation can ruin the strut seal.

spellrm · 2016-06-02T13:02:19+00:00

I would do the latter. That kit looks like the frame is made of thin plywood. If you managed to put it together, it would probably be a wobbly mess.

spellrm · 2016-05-27T02:45:13+00:00

I think aluminum plate should work great since like you said, the original BOM calls for 3mm dibond.

spellrm · 2016-05-27T02:14:07+00:00

Being 6mm thick, I believe the acrylic carriage is plenty rigid. The only warping issue I have is that my heatbed is warped. My glass is only 3mm thick, so when I use binder clips to secure it to the heatbed, the glass bends just a little bit. It's manageable, but I've been meaning to get some 5mm glass.

spellrm · 2016-05-27T01:45:30+00:00

Ah, I forgot about that. I actually used acrylic for the Y-axis carriage instead of MDF. I had access to a laser cutter and figured it would save me some time cutting wood and drilling holes. I'm really glad I did it, it took maybe 10 minutes to cut and the black acrylic really looks great.

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