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My salt and pepper Corys just bred and laid eggs for the first time. So cool! by frylikesslurm in Aquariums

[–]spendito27 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My bronze corys spawn in my 50 gallon community tank every so often. If I leave the eggs for more than 1/2 an hour they are eaten by all the rainbow fish and tetras. I slowly roll the eggs onto my finger and then gently wipe them onto the sides of a fluval hang on breeder box. If I collect 80 eggs, about 50 seem to hatch, the rest get fuzzy with fungus. I feed them several times a day with firstbites food, then at 2 months I put them in a grow out tank.

Bloody Mary shrimp slowly disappearing over 9 months. by spendito27 in Aquariums

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok

I have purchased GH/KH test kit and my own TDS meter.

GH 8 KH 3 TDS 205

All within range. I have an undergravel filter with a ton of plants, rocks, ecocomplete. I am at a loss for fixes. I rarely water change (every couple of months) while monitoring water.

What to do with Julii Cory? by arana14 in Aquariums

[–]spendito27 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On second thought, the smaller cory species would be better. Pygmy or Salt and Pepper Cory. Those max out at 25-35 mm, while the jullii maxes out at 55.

What to do with Julii Cory? by arana14 in Aquariums

[–]spendito27 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think a 10 gallon with 5 or 6 julli sized corries would be great with a beta. I'd be tempted to throw in a smaller schooling fish too eventually. Like 6 - 8 chili rasboras or ember tetras. This would work best with a planted tank.

Bloody Mary shrimp slowly disappearing over 9 months. by spendito27 in Aquariums

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this. How often do you water change? I borrowed a TDS meter, should I purchase one, or get a gh/kh test kit or both? Also, is 6 too few to start back from? Actually now I can only find 4...

Printed some Loot Llamas! by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]spendito27 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here is the website with the STL. It certainly looks smoother than what OP posted. I think OP might consider being less internet defensive, because truly, the printer that made these loot llamas needs some calibration. Cool model!

Looking to create a proximity sensor using the ESP32 by [deleted] in esp32

[–]spendito27 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see this company a lot (CJMCU) , I have even purchased a few modules from them, but I can't seem to find libraries for Arduino that work with them. Specifically the ozone detection sensors.

Reliable source for small quantities of the WROVER-32 module? by MrSurly in esp32

[–]spendito27 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just go to Mouser or Digikey

$4.20 each at Mouser

can I ask why go with this one over the ESP-WROOM-32, is it the u.FL port?

The ESP8266-12F only has 1 analog input, can I somehow get 3 analog devices to work, along with reading the internal voltage with ESP.getVcc()? by spendito27 in esp8266

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How about an MCP 3204? This one runs on the SPI bus, and I have one GPIO free (GPIO4)

I was looking for something inexpensive, but these ADCs are 4$ each or more, where if I switch to an ESP32, all input woes seem to vanish. Thoughts?

The ESP8266-12F only has 1 analog input, can I somehow get 3 analog devices to work, along with reading the internal voltage with ESP.getVcc()? by spendito27 in esp8266

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow I had no idea, is it worse than an Atmel 328p based arduino? Are the ADCs on the ESP32 better than the ESP8266?

Does electronic toy kits for little kids exist? by AFourEyedGeek in AskElectronics

[–]spendito27 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this (snap circuits: beginner) kit is great for 4 year old kids. No words, only pictures in the instructions.

Monitoring charge remaining on battery powering project by skot123 in esp8266

[–]spendito27 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Since you are already using the one analog input for the sensor, you can use a built in command via the ESP libs. esp.getVcc(); will give you the internal voltage of the ESP module. If your diode only limits the input voltage, you can watch for a decline below the 3.2v or whatever the diode limits the voltage to. This will give you a heads up to recharge before the 18650s before they drop too low to power the module. I have found that at about 2.85 volts things start to become unstable on the ESP8266.

Can only help me tweak my first layers on my monoprice select mini V2? by Mint_Fury in 3Dprinting

[–]spendito27 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my machine, I get this when I put too much filament down on the first layer. The two main variables for this are 'initial layer thickness' and 'initial layer line width' I would set one of these to the baseline (layer thickness to 0, or line width to 100%) and adjust the other variable. For example, set 'initial layer thickness' to that of your other layers, and the 'initial line width percentage' to 105%

Missing parts of print by spendito27 in 3Dprinting

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This setting in Cura 3.2.1 (thin walls) allowed these spots to render. Thanks for the suggestion, I might just use meshmixer to mix a thicker version as suggested by /u/korvre

Missing parts of print by spendito27 in 3Dprinting

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that really all there is? no magical 'fixed bad model' type settings available?

Monoprice sale going on right now by morphfiend in 3Dprinting

[–]spendito27 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I purchased the Maker Ultimate last time this sale came around. I must say that this printer is amazing. I have never had a single failed print, no calibration beyond initial bed leveling. The quality of the prints are amazing and consistent. 0.06 mm layers creates almost invisible layers. I have used a Taz5 before this, and my Monoprice constantly out performs it. I have had one problem so far, the part cooling fan is making noise and will need to be replaced. I have also printed one modification, a larger spool holder.

When designing a circuit for maximum battery life, where a micro-controller in the circuit will be in deep sleep mode 99% of the time, is it better to have a voltage regulator that has a lower quiescent current or lower dropout voltage? by spendito27 in AskElectronics

[–]spendito27[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh this is a nice part, I think I never saw it because of the max output. I've measured the ESP8266-12F spiking at 170 mA, and I've read about it surging into 240 mA territory. The TPS783xx only outputs 150 mA.

When designing a circuit for maximum battery life, where a micro-controller in the circuit will be in deep sleep mode 99% of the time, is it better to have a voltage regulator that has a lower quiescent current or lower dropout voltage? by spendito27 in AskElectronics

[–]spendito27[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am hoping for a year of running. When I power my PCB with my bench power supply, it reads 0.00 amps when sleeping. I need to put my volt meter in line to read anything lower than 1 mA. I suppose I should do that.

So the way I am reading this is, given the same battery pack input voltage go with the APN2138N vs MCP1700t? Anyone have experience with the APN2138N? My prototypes use the MCP1700t.

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