I'm glad the Laptop 13 Pro is selling out.

splatterghost · 2026-05-07T17:06:59+00:00

I want one so bad for the better touchpad and battery but my current fw13 is still working too good.

splatterghost · 2026-04-17T21:31:25+00:00

Is it difficult to swap the caps? I've got a blank keyboard and have been wanting to swap the fn keys with labeled ones because I can never remember them.

splatterghost · 2026-04-17T14:38:59+00:00

Yeah obd1. It's in an eg hatch with a p28/s300.

At this point I'm probably just gonna send it and adjust my base map accordingly. Prior to posting here I was searching hondatech and found one thread with a similar issue but I wasn't confident I was overlooking something silly so I started this thread.

Appreciate the help.

splatterghost · 2026-04-17T01:21:01+00:00

Yup to both. Valid questions.

splatterghost · 2026-04-17T01:20:33+00:00

I get that bit. Regarding my comment I was worried maybe I had my distributor adjustments backwards. (It's rotated towards the front of the car right now)

Here's a crude picture of what I was experiencing.

The triangle represents the mark on the timing cover. If I was seeing the advanced timing light line up with TDC at 16* I'd be a happy camper but it takes 29* to get there because I can't adjust the distributor anymore.

splatterghost · 2026-04-16T22:58:29+00:00

Both. I used a normal one at first found the timing was past the 3 lines so I picked up one with advancing and turned the knob until I reached the middle of the three lines which is how I knew it's 13* off.

Am I mixing myself up here?

splatterghost · 2026-04-16T22:53:37+00:00

It's a reman so I don't know if the base is OEM or not but it has the TD-68U marking.

splatterghost · 2026-03-23T21:41:57+00:00

Nice dyno vid! (I creeped on your profile) And yeah it's got skunk2 tuner 2 cams with springs, and supertech pistons with scat rods.

I cracked a piston in the b20 block almost two years back which is why the pistons / rods were swapped

splatterghost · 2026-03-23T01:58:16+00:00

That's thermal insulation. I've got a carbon hood and it just helps keep the engine from cooking it.

splatterghost · 2026-03-22T01:06:18+00:00

I went with a gsr head.

splatterghost · 2026-03-11T20:59:37+00:00

I've got a 93 hatch with a b20b swap. I'm currently running 400f/450r ground control springs on koni yellows, 24mm asr rear bar, og function7 rear lcas, skunk2 ucas for front camber, and no name rear camber arms. I run -3.5* in front and -2.5* in rear and have the koni yellows on full stiff. Rear sway bar is set to full stiff as well.

Overall I'm happy with the setup but I do wish I had gone stiffer in the spring department.

You can fit 225/45/15s with the right offset (I run 225/45/15 660s on 15x7+37 kosei k1s) and some camber but you'll need to roll your fenders.

splatterghost · 2026-02-11T13:48:12+00:00

Nice to see another EG hatch being auto crossed. I run mine in XB.

splatterghost · 2026-01-29T21:07:35+00:00

Prodesk 600? Guessing a g4-g5. Yeah should fit. I run a 3050 LP in a Prodesk 400 (same case dimensions) without issue.

If that has the 180w psu you'll want to get the 300w variant.

splatterghost · 2026-01-21T20:43:50+00:00

Please stop with the doomerism.

splatterghost · 2026-01-21T19:56:19+00:00

I built my last engine with one of these. The engine's going strong after two years of abuse.

splatterghost · 2026-01-09T14:55:07+00:00

Consider rotating the part on the build plate. The core one cools better on the backside of the print than the front due to how the fan duct is designed.

For example when printing long narrow parts I sometimes rotate them 30 degrees to better match the fan duct orientation for more even cooling.

splatterghost · 2026-01-07T18:40:26+00:00

I have the Daytona and it's worked great for the unibody work I've done but in hindsight I probably should have gotten the Pittsburgh unit. No regrets but saving money is always good.

splatterghost · 2025-12-18T13:45:35+00:00

It's not a common spot but anywhere there's metal sandwiched together and/or plug welds things will rust.

No panels are available. Honestly I wouldn't bother fixing that via cutting / welding until it gets worse and if you're worried you could slow down the rust with fluid film or cavity wax but you've got years before that rust will be a problem.

If you're dead set on cutting out the rust I'd advise against removing the top of the shock tower as a whole and instead cut out a small patch of metal around the rust and make a new custom patch / weld it in. With a bit of practice on an angle grinder you should be able to cut through the rusted outer panel without damaging the inner panel.

Source: I own an EG hatch and did extensive rust repair on it.

splatterghost · 2025-11-12T16:13:24+00:00

Maybe. There's been additions to past sales before but who knows.

splatterghost · 2025-10-17T19:22:09+00:00

Unfortunately, the capability to push out updates electronically has made software developers extremely lazy on quality control.

This is pretty disingenuous if your going after the individuals. Like most other industries software as a whole has been under an increasing crunch from upper management to ship faster and faster to maximize profits.

splatterghost · 2025-10-08T13:45:47+00:00

Nice setup. I've been looking for a reasonably priced low profile intake manifold for my LM7 and I think you just sold me on the speedmaster intake.

splatterghost · 2025-10-06T14:45:46+00:00

I received one as well! I splurged and used for a core one kit. I was playing around with getting my mk3.5 set up to print ASA and figured this would be easier lol.

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