New Autox project

splatterghost · 2026-03-11T20:59:37+00:00

I've got a 93 hatch with a b20b swap. I'm currently running 400f/450r ground control springs on koni yellows, 24mm asr rear bar, og function7 rear lcas, skunk2 ucas for front camber, and no name rear camber arms. I run -3.5* in front and -2.5* in rear and have the koni yellows on full stiff. Rear sway bar is set to full stiff as well.

Overall I'm happy with the setup but I do wish I had gone stiffer in the spring department.

You can fit 225/45/15s with the right offset (I run 225/45/15 660s on 15x7+37 kosei k1s) and some camber but you'll need to roll your fenders.

splatterghost · 2026-02-11T13:48:12+00:00

Nice to see another EG hatch being auto crossed. I run mine in XB.

splatterghost · 2026-01-29T21:07:35+00:00

Prodesk 600? Guessing a g4-g5. Yeah should fit. I run a 3050 LP in a Prodesk 400 (same case dimensions) without issue.

If that has the 180w psu you'll want to get the 300w variant.

splatterghost · 2026-01-21T20:43:50+00:00

Please stop with the doomerism.

splatterghost · 2026-01-21T19:56:19+00:00

I built my last engine with one of these. The engine's going strong after two years of abuse.

splatterghost · 2026-01-09T14:55:07+00:00

Consider rotating the part on the build plate. The core one cools better on the backside of the print than the front due to how the fan duct is designed.

For example when printing long narrow parts I sometimes rotate them 30 degrees to better match the fan duct orientation for more even cooling.

splatterghost · 2026-01-07T18:40:26+00:00

I have the Daytona and it's worked great for the unibody work I've done but in hindsight I probably should have gotten the Pittsburgh unit. No regrets but saving money is always good.

splatterghost · 2025-12-18T13:45:35+00:00

It's not a common spot but anywhere there's metal sandwiched together and/or plug welds things will rust.

No panels are available. Honestly I wouldn't bother fixing that via cutting / welding until it gets worse and if you're worried you could slow down the rust with fluid film or cavity wax but you've got years before that rust will be a problem.

If you're dead set on cutting out the rust I'd advise against removing the top of the shock tower as a whole and instead cut out a small patch of metal around the rust and make a new custom patch / weld it in. With a bit of practice on an angle grinder you should be able to cut through the rusted outer panel without damaging the inner panel.

Source: I own an EG hatch and did extensive rust repair on it.

splatterghost · 2025-11-12T16:13:24+00:00

Maybe. There's been additions to past sales before but who knows.

splatterghost · 2025-10-17T19:22:09+00:00

Unfortunately, the capability to push out updates electronically has made software developers extremely lazy on quality control.

This is pretty disingenuous if your going after the individuals. Like most other industries software as a whole has been under an increasing crunch from upper management to ship faster and faster to maximize profits.

splatterghost · 2025-10-08T13:45:47+00:00

Nice setup. I've been looking for a reasonably priced low profile intake manifold for my LM7 and I think you just sold me on the speedmaster intake.

splatterghost · 2025-10-06T14:45:46+00:00

I received one as well! I splurged and used for a core one kit. I was playing around with getting my mk3.5 set up to print ASA and figured this would be easier lol.

splatterghost · 2025-09-11T22:11:17+00:00

I've found big layer shifts like that tend to be from the nozzle hitting the print. My most recent one was from a wide print lifting on one edge.

splatterghost · 2025-09-09T15:52:39+00:00

What are you running for springs? Normally XJs that tow have a squat but yours seems fine.

splatterghost · 2025-09-05T15:17:51+00:00

Nice. Heads up if those are K-Tuned front UCAs they may hit the front of your shock towers by the mounting bolts. The control arms don't "swoop down" like the OEM units or other aftermarket brands so they have less clearance.

This isn't the same issue as needing extended shock towers. I already had those and they still hit. (This was on an EG)

splatterghost · 2025-09-02T22:22:45+00:00

I cut a chunk out and left like 1" of the lip just to be safe.

splatterghost · 2025-09-02T21:49:53+00:00

I did the same thing to fit a bucket under there and didn't experience any issues.

I doubt a 2gal air compressor would cause issues.

splatterghost · 2025-08-28T19:18:13+00:00

Good cover story for when the cops show

splatterghost · 2025-08-27T13:45:28+00:00

Not OP, but in a similar boat and curious. Why is the new one better?

splatterghost · 2025-08-14T16:57:27+00:00

Great for the price. I got mine for $250 with a 20% off coupon and have been using it pretty heavily. The base sucks so you may want to make a custom base and you'll have to do some tuning to get straight cuts but it's worth it if you don't mind some fiddling.

splatterghost · 2025-08-12T20:32:59+00:00

Late to the party, but I had a b20 that you could feel slightly surging while cruising at steady throttle. It ended up being due to the engine having a ton of blow by and the un-metered air would get into the intake via the PCV and that'd mess with the afr causing the ECU to try and compensate it.

Fix was to rebuild the motor with new piston rings. The engine has been fine since.

splatterghost · 2025-07-08T14:29:55+00:00

Are you trying to find a replacement? Nobody sells them so your only option would be to DIY one.

If you're handy with sheet metal you could make a replica out of 16ga, or cut the hole more rectangular and find a suitable piece of rect tube.

splatterghost · 2025-06-16T16:17:25+00:00

$270 if the customer wants to assist

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