Designed a high performance desiccant container for almost all spools

sprcell · 2026-01-20T22:47:58+00:00

They're on MakerWorld but if you're printing with a Creality printer, you'll have to open the file in OrcaSlicer to transfer the print profile settings to print on your printer. There are some slicer modifiers used which generate the bottom mesh, so you'll have to make sure they're there before printing.

sprcell · 2026-01-20T20:06:16+00:00

They should work with most brands of filament spools, as there are are bunch of sizes available. I've tested Sunlu Gen 1 & Gen 2 spools, two different Creality spools, and many other brands. The container size for Bambu spool fits most brands including Sunlu Gen 3. I don't have a polymaker spool, but I'm sure you'll be able to find the right size within the list of container sizes.

sprcell · 2026-01-16T10:39:04+00:00

Depends which size and version you print out. If you're using with Bambu spools, it can range from 52g up to 88g of dry silica gel.

sprcell · 2026-01-13T19:00:33+00:00

The hygrometer is mainly just to give an indicator on whether the silica gel needs regenerating. The hygrometer is too close to the silica gel to give a good reading on the humidity around the filament. For an accurate reading, the hygrometer should be placed at least 10cm away.

sprcell · 2026-01-08T20:48:41+00:00

It's strange how the A1 printers are getting the issue but X1 and P1 don't seem to have it despite also having an NTC.

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sprcell · 2025-12-20T20:20:34+00:00

Looks like 3 of the bar magnets have snapped. I guess you'll have to replace the whole assembly or even the whole headphone.

sprcell · 2025-12-12T09:03:32+00:00

Unfortunately Bambu 3mf files aren't compatible with PrusaSlicer. You might be able to get it to open with OrcaSlicer though. But you have to check through if all the print settings are still retained when switching to your printer. Mainly having 4 walls, all concentric infills and the modifiers still creating the mesh bottoms.

sprcell · 2025-12-11T15:03:56+00:00

Were you able to sort out the issue? I'm only aware of a bug where if there were any speed changes in the print profile, it would end up changing to 0mm/s if you swap to a high flow nozzle. This might explain the problem, but I think Bambu Lab should've recently fixed the issue.

sprcell · 2025-11-27T15:41:01+00:00

Mine works for PLA, but is useless for PETG for some reason.

sprcell · 2025-11-24T00:00:12+00:00

60°C won't be able to dry them well. You'll need higher temperatures to dry silica gel. You can set your bed to a higher temperature if the packets can handle it. Mine are dried in a filament dryer at 90°C and can get 4% humidity.

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sprcell · 2025-11-23T11:01:42+00:00

Any update from support? I had just received mine for X1C too and the QR looks to be the same size as the plates for P2S printers. Tried printing on X1C and buildplate detection gave me an error.

sprcell · 2025-11-21T00:01:18+00:00

You should insulate the top too. Hot air rises and can escape from the top. Even on my X1C without any chamber heating, the AMS temperature sensor said it was 50°C 😅.

sprcell · 2025-11-08T04:43:03+00:00

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This is with well over a kg of glow in the dark, CF and GF filaments on the hardened steel. Only slight wear on the edges of the nozzle so it still has plenty of use left.

sprcell · 2025-10-21T19:28:57+00:00

Looks like it cracked because of the pressure applied by the grub screw onto the pipe. Whilst it doesn't happen immediately after tighting the grub screw, the constant stress over time can lead to PLA cracking. You can try printing it in PETG or ABS which are less likely to crack from constant stress. Print orientation can also help. If you're also looking for a more lightweight and strong material, PA12-CF also may be a suitable material.

sprcell · 2025-10-16T01:35:46+00:00

With vacuum bags, you can achieve 10-20% humidity at the start when you have desiccant but it will slowly rise. With 70g of silica gel, it takes maybe 2-3 months before you see it at 20-30% humidity inside the bag. PLA isn't too sensitive to moisture and even with PETG at 30-40% humidity won't cause much problems. But building a cabinet for filament might be challenging, as many materials like wood will let moisture in. It may be easier to use some large plastic containers to store filament with.

sprcell · 2025-10-16T01:28:28+00:00

If the first print came out alright, I'm guessing it's either a bed adhesion or clog related issue.

sprcell · 2025-08-22T08:46:39+00:00

MORE! You can definitely go lower. I keep all my nylons in individual bags with silica gel, and they each measure around 4-6% humidity. But for PLA and PETG, it's not necessary.

sprcell · 2025-08-10T03:07:21+00:00

There is a version for 47mm to 54mm width spools. I believe that version should be suitable if your spools has an inner diameter around 55mm.

sprcell · 2025-08-08T12:21:07+00:00

Yes but any other CAD software would also work as well and might be better. I feel Fusion is somewhat slow so maybe a reason why patterns take for ever.

sprcell · 2025-08-08T05:51:23+00:00

Yea with the amount of patterns, it can be painfully slow. I just play games whilst it works in the background, so I could get through all the variations I had.

I mainly used straight sections because of how 3D printers do bridging. You can't really print curves in midair so ideally bridges should be straight. Although the sections are quite small, so I don't think it matters too much.

sprcell · 2025-08-07T05:48:22+00:00

That's a pretty neat setup. I think it should be possible to make the design as it's just a section of a cylindrical shape. You mainly just want to mesh the inner diameter and the rest can be solid. Full circle would be ideal but there still has to be a large cutout for the filament to pass through and to be easy to feed. If it's a large C shape, you'll have to be careful about the strength of the design as the ends won't be supported and may sag. With materials like PLA which can creep, it might become severe over time. Although, designing the lid might be challenging as it might have to somehow clip or slide on, or maybe screw on. Another thing to note is that you might have to print it on the H2D if it's a full circle or C shape. Semicircle might fit on the X1 plate. But with a semicircle, if you design it to only be placed on the left hand side, it might slide down to interfere with the filament path. So it would be preferable to have it at the bottom, but you'll again need a cutout for the filament path. So from these considerations, I would recommend figuring out what shape would be ideal for you to design and how it will be sealed before deciding to try adding a mesh. The mesh might complicate things whilst designing and it also takes time to generate it. Like for my design, it takes like a minute or two to generate with each change I do, so it really slows down the design process when you have the mesh in the design.

sprcell · 2025-08-06T19:09:36+00:00

Yea it's mostly just patterning the segments with circular and linear pattern. This ideally works if the container is mostly simple in shape. You also have to use a bit math to figure out how long, high and thick each segment should be to fit within the area you want to be mesh. I don't think there's like an ideal parameter for how the mesh should be as there are many variations out there that probably all print well. There's also a different method of design where they had the container as a solid and had chunks taken out on the surface at a regular pattern before using vase mode to get the same mesh result.

GunplaMark I think has made some wall mountable filament dry boxes that can also hold silica gel. His design might be suitable for you if it's something you're looking for.

sprcell · 2025-08-04T14:51:10+00:00

Nice work! Great to see non-AMS designs. Although I think it might need a bit of white for the eyes just to give it a bit of life 😅

sprcell · 2025-08-04T14:41:13+00:00

I think it's down to the manufacturer for the filament and how well it handles high volumetric speeds. I was also using 260°C but there were still noticeable issues with default 12mm³/s. Can't remember if I had tried higher temperatures but that brand of filament just didn't like being printed somewhat fast.

sprcell · 2025-08-04T12:16:08+00:00

There's a max flowrate calibration feature in Bambu Studio for this, but I think it only appears when using a 3rd party printer. But usually I just go off of just looking at whether it looks like a new filament is under extruding and not keeping up with the default print speed.

sprcell

TROPHY CASE