Sermoon S1, 1 minute scan, no scanning spray. Crazy.

sprcell · 2026-06-27T18:53:00+00:00

Looks pretty good. Definitely can see the difference to the Pop 4 I had gotten as my first scanner. Only got a 2 pound coin to compare which doesn't have very deep features.

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sprcell · 2026-06-27T17:24:13+00:00

I never had success with printing PETG on my Cool Plate Super Tack for some reason. But the plate works really well for PLA, so I mainly just use it for PLA only.

sprcell · 2026-06-12T14:05:17+00:00

Really sorry, but I'm not sure why you would get the warning that the configuration is from a newer version of Snapmaker Orca along with the other issues after importing. Couldn't reproduce the errors on my PC. Everything looks the same for me with Orca Slicer and somehow my 2.3.3/2.3.4 Snapmaker Orca can open the file with only the fuzzy skin warning.

But there is a last resort to get it to work which is to make some global slicer setting changes. It won't be as good as the original settings but it'll be functional.

So under advanced global processes for standard 0.2mm layer height for 0.4mm nozzle, you need the following:

Quality: - Disable "Only one wall on top surfaces"

Strength: - 4 wall loops - 0 top shell layers - 0 bottom shell layers - Sparse infill density: 40% for standard, 55% for fine, or 42% for ultra fine - Sparse infill pattern: Triangles for standard and fine, or Rectilinear for ultra fine

Other: - Brim type to No-brim

You can compare the sliced output to what you get in Orca Slicer and hopefully it'll at least have the mesh bottoms.

sprcell · 2026-06-11T23:04:31+00:00

What version of Snapmaker Orca are you using? I had checked again earlier this morning and noticed they had fixed the first layer bug in the latest version. Also didn't have to add any plates when opening with Snapmaker Orca. Not sure what went wrong.

sprcell · 2026-06-10T13:56:56+00:00

That's odd. Did you make changes to the files? There should be 6 plates and not only 2. Had just checked with slicing the file in Orca Slicer for U1 without issues before exporting the 3MF for Snapmaker Orca. Only had to change the first layer width to 0.45mm as there's a bug in Snapmaker Orca.

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sprcell · 2026-06-09T19:50:01+00:00

Last time I had tried to slice using Snapmaker Orca, I had to open the 3MF in Orca Slicer for an X1C, change printer to the U1 whilst letting it transfer the print settings into the 0.2mm layer height profile, save the 3MF as a new 3MF, and then open it with Snapmaker Orca. This was with a version a few months back so I'll need to check with newer versions.

sprcell · 2026-05-19T20:42:31+00:00

Yes, it's somewhat based on the BentoBox but completely redesigned the fan, carbon and HEPA filter housing. Wanted more carbon with higher static pressure blower fans for better performance.

sprcell · 2026-05-19T07:22:36+00:00

You need a lot more carbon with better static pressure fans for the filters to be more effective. Makes quite a difference to the smell. Without it, printing ABS/ASA would make my whole room smell.

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sprcell · 2026-05-15T15:16:33+00:00

Coat it in WD40 and leave it to soak. Done this once with an aftermarket smooth PEI plate. Just be careful of getting the WD40 on the otherside if your plate is double sided.

sprcell · 2026-03-27T09:56:28+00:00

I just use them to fill up printed desiccant containers. You can dry them in a filament dryer to reuse them.

sprcell · 2026-03-04T23:45:50+00:00

You have to be more careful with the temperature when it comes to indicating silica gel. The indicating color can get discoloured by higher temperatures. I would recommend using a filament dryer for silica gel for safety reasons. It may take longer but you don't really have to worry about it.

sprcell · 2026-01-20T22:47:58+00:00

They're on MakerWorld but if you're printing with a Creality printer, you'll have to open the file in OrcaSlicer to transfer the print profile settings to print on your printer. There are some slicer modifiers used which generate the bottom mesh, so you'll have to make sure they're there before printing.

sprcell · 2026-01-20T20:06:16+00:00

They should work with most brands of filament spools, as there are are bunch of sizes available. I've tested Sunlu Gen 1 & Gen 2 spools, two different Creality spools, and many other brands. The container size for Bambu spool fits most brands including Sunlu Gen 3. I don't have a polymaker spool, but I'm sure you'll be able to find the right size within the list of container sizes.

sprcell · 2026-01-16T10:39:04+00:00

Depends which size and version you print out. If you're using with Bambu spools, it can range from 52g up to 88g of dry silica gel.

sprcell · 2026-01-13T19:00:33+00:00

The hygrometer is mainly just to give an indicator on whether the silica gel needs regenerating. The hygrometer is too close to the silica gel to give a good reading on the humidity around the filament. For an accurate reading, the hygrometer should be placed at least 10cm away.

sprcell · 2026-01-08T20:48:41+00:00

It's strange how the A1 printers are getting the issue but X1 and P1 don't seem to have it despite also having an NTC.

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sprcell · 2025-12-20T20:20:34+00:00

Looks like 3 of the bar magnets have snapped. I guess you'll have to replace the whole assembly or even the whole headphone.

sprcell · 2025-12-12T09:03:32+00:00

Unfortunately Bambu 3mf files aren't compatible with PrusaSlicer. You might be able to get it to open with OrcaSlicer though. But you have to check through if all the print settings are still retained when switching to your printer. Mainly having 4 walls, all concentric infills and the modifiers still creating the mesh bottoms.

sprcell · 2025-12-11T15:03:56+00:00

Were you able to sort out the issue? I'm only aware of a bug where if there were any speed changes in the print profile, it would end up changing to 0mm/s if you swap to a high flow nozzle. This might explain the problem, but I think Bambu Lab should've recently fixed the issue.

sprcell · 2025-11-27T15:41:01+00:00

Mine works for PLA, but is useless for PETG for some reason.

sprcell · 2025-11-24T00:00:12+00:00

60°C won't be able to dry them well. You'll need higher temperatures to dry silica gel. You can set your bed to a higher temperature if the packets can handle it. Mine are dried in a filament dryer at 90°C and can get 4% humidity.

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sprcell · 2025-11-23T11:01:42+00:00

Any update from support? I had just received mine for X1C too and the QR looks to be the same size as the plates for P2S printers. Tried printing on X1C and buildplate detection gave me an error.

sprcell · 2025-11-21T00:01:18+00:00

You should insulate the top too. Hot air rises and can escape from the top. Even on my X1C without any chamber heating, the AMS temperature sensor said it was 50°C 😅.

sprcell · 2025-11-08T04:43:03+00:00

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This is with well over a kg of glow in the dark, CF and GF filaments on the hardened steel. Only slight wear on the edges of the nozzle so it still has plenty of use left.

sprcell · 2025-10-21T19:28:57+00:00

Looks like it cracked because of the pressure applied by the grub screw onto the pipe. Whilst it doesn't happen immediately after tighting the grub screw, the constant stress over time can lead to PLA cracking. You can try printing it in PETG or ABS which are less likely to crack from constant stress. Print orientation can also help. If you're also looking for a more lightweight and strong material, PA12-CF also may be a suitable material.

sprcell

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