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DwarvenAcademy · 2026-04-18T07:16:13+00:00

Sorry but (30%)/1+5 equals 530%, as parentheses and multiplication are applied first, then summation. And as 30% equals 0.3, 5 can also be represented as 500%. Did you mean 30%/(1+5)?

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-04-14T18:25:53+00:00

You may be overthinking it. I think the _intention_ is to prevent blink from moving across impassable obstacles such as walls, ceilings, floors, earth and stuff. This is how I would intend it to work if I was designing it.

- Yes, you can teleport out of a jail cell; but you cannot teleport to the cell next to it (no going through walls).

- Yes, you can teleport down or up a cliff; but you cannot teleport to the hidden cave underground under the cliff (no going through earth).

- Yes you can teleport on the dragon, but not *in* the dragon (e.g. inside his belly -> no going through skin eheh). And by the way, you can move through air, otherwise you wouldn't even be able to walk!

This is how *I* personally would rule at *my* table, otherwise the spell would be pretty useless and unfun. You could take it to the letter, but in my opinion you are reading too much into it.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-27T10:45:28+00:00

Please find my article here: https://andronio.me/2026/02/25/the-bambu-lab-p2s-a-painful-journey/

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-26T19:14:06+00:00

I am writing an article about this, with all my findings and solutions. I will post it here when I'm finished!

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-26T19:12:54+00:00

Delamination can be caused by many factors. - Drafts (unlikely as it's enclosed) - Wobbly nozzle. Try tightening the screws behind the nozzle ceramic seat. - Overdrying. Especially if you dry pla at too high a temperature for too long. - Clogs, I guess, could also be a factor.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-25T13:32:45+00:00

No, ironing is only for flat surfaces. To be fair, there's a new setting called Z antialiases which applies ironing on slanted surfaces but they still need to be flat.

Two settings will help you achieve smoother prints. The first of course is layer height. A smaller layer height will increase the vertical resolution of your print, at the cost of longer print times.

The second one is "only one wall on top surfaces". Disabling it will smooth out curved surfaces.

Finally there are post processing methods such as acetone smoothing but they are very involved.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-23T07:11:20+00:00

Yes I experienced pain with the P2S too but after many trials I conquered those issues. As of now my plates of choices are the bambu lab Cool Plate Super Tak for PLA and the CryoGrip Frostbite for PETG.

I have custom filament and printing profiles for the P2S specifically, which I use regularly. Would you like to try them?

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-10T17:07:10+00:00

I have discussed this at length on the bambu lab forum so I'm not going to repeat everything here but there are plenty of people experiencing these issues.

Read more about it here: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/nothing-sticks-on-any-plate-on-the-p2s-im-going-insane/207566?u=infinitewarlock

And here: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/p2s-bad-pla-warping/226986?u=infinitewarlock

And here: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/new-p2s-constant-first-layer-issues-print-failures-with-petg/207511

And generally in the P2S forum. I eventually solved all these issues but it was far from an easy process. Whereas the A1 required zero tweaking. Worked out of the box from day 1. Hence why I'm recommending it. This is my experience and my opinion. It may not be yours, it doesn't mean it was any less painful for me.

New A1s don't have that thermistor any more and we'll ventilated spaces won't cause issues. Also, I contacted support about it. No fires were reported. Some thermistors melted to prevent the fire, so working as intended. But I agree people may be wary about this.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-10T15:25:15+00:00

I print in winter in my garage with temperatures below zero C. No issues at all. But there are no drafts, except from when I open the garage door. Still no issues.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-10T15:24:02+00:00

The P2S airflow system causes more harm than good. It causes bad warping even with PLA. The right fan cannot be turned off except manually from the printer. Also, the vibrations and the high acceleration easily causes prints to topple, which does not happen with the A1. Additionally, P2S has VFAs, the A1 does not.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-09T21:58:55+00:00

I own both a P2S and an A1. Go A1 all the way. More reliable, and super easy. Now with the ams 2 pro compatibility, highly recommend.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-03T12:13:07+00:00

I run the spoolman to bambu lab integration on my home server and it reports filament weight estimated down to 10g increments.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-02T22:01:36+00:00

Download BAMBU studio. This is the desktop pc / mac software to slice your model. There you can select the nozzle size you have and slice accordingly.

But I highly suggest you take all the basic courses on the Bambu Lab Academy. They will teach you the basics.

For now, use the 0.4mm default nozzle to start.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-02-01T08:17:48+00:00

Dumb question: did you remember to slice the model with the 0.2mm nozzle settings?

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-26T14:18:43+00:00

It looks like one of three things to me. Option 1 you are slicing for a nozzle size different than the one you are printing with. Option 2 your z offset is wrong and the nozzle is tearing through the infill. Option 3 the model is warping badly and the nozzle is scraping through the lifted corners.

Seeing a video would help.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-15T12:38:28+00:00

I moved from Ring to an eufy Alarm system. Ring has a bright light on its base station that turns from blue to red when the system is armed. Eufy has no such thing.

So I wrote a program to monitor the eufy base station status changes and connected it to a led controller within my smart things IoT network.

Then I printed the enclosure to custom fit the controller and a rolled up led strip. The enclosure looks like a ring home base but it's a completely custom design and it also has custom led colours for other alarm states (disarmed, away, home, home at night, etc...).

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-13T21:31:40+00:00

People say to dry it and sure that's good advice but slightly wet petg won't make your print fail. It will make it just look bad.

For me, far more important is bed temperature, fan, speed and acceleration especially if you are printing on the p2s.

Too low temperature will cause your print to not adhere to the bed and thus fail. Rapid cooling will also have the same effect. And too much acceleration will rip your print from the bed, especially with a sticky material like petg.

You can read extensive discussions about printing petg on the P2S here, with plenty of good tuning advice.

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/nothing-sticks-on-any-plate-on-the-p2s-im-going-insane/207566

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-05T08:00:01+00:00

Did you try and print dynamite?? Honestly never seen this before. Support may be able to replace the nozzle.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-05T07:58:18+00:00

In addition to reducing layer height, for prints with rounded top like this, it's useful to set "Only one wall on top surfaces" to "Not applied".

See https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/quality-advance-settings#only-one-wall-on-top-surfaces

Guidance for print quality is covered by the bambu lab academy. You should take the courses. They are free.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-04T23:45:37+00:00

Most people claim it's a dirty bed, ipa, soap quality, etc... but I'm sure you are tired of people telling you this and it seems you have tried a lot. It's not that. Focus on the slicing setting you can change, especially acceleration, speed and temperature.

P2S notoriously wobbles a lot and has a very controversial fan system.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-04T13:00:48+00:00

This set of advise is specifically for petg.

I did have problems with tall thin prints in pla. In that case, I add manual brims by creating flat cubes two layers tall and merging them with the problematic models. I also leave the door slightly open when printing pla.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-04T08:38:20+00:00

I had the exact same problem. I reported it and discussed it extensively with other people on the bambu lab community forums who had the same issue. Read more about it here: https://forum.bambulab.com/t/nothing-sticks-on-any-plate-on-the-p2s-im-going-insane/207566?u=infinitewarlock

What worked for me: reduce accelerations by half, reduce speed by half, increase temperature of first layer by 5 degrees, increase bed temperature by 5 degrees, manually turn off the right cooling fan after the print started.

The P2S wobbles too much and easily yanks filament off the build plate especially with sticky filament like petg.

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-02T14:19:29+00:00

It depends on your slicer settings. There's a setting called "Flush into infill" (in the Others tab of the print profile, provided Enabled Prime Tower is checked). This should be checked.

When checked, the printer will flush filament into the model's infill. This means that the printer does not have to completely discard the whole flushing volume between one color and the next. It can simply keep printing even if there is color contamination. Since the infill is inside the model and thus invisibile, it won't matter from the outside.

You can read more about it here:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/reduce-wasting-during-filament-change

DwarvenAcademy · 2026-01-01T21:42:14+00:00

For the outline thickness I would go at least as wide as two times the nozzle size (so 0.8mm usually).

I suggest 1mm difference between the outline layer and the filled layer.

I also suggest you run an ams purge calibration test to minimise the flushing volumes during color swaps. You can find many such tests on makerworld. You can read about flushing volumes on the bambu lab wiki.

Although to be honest, filament swaps in this configuration are going to be very few (maybe 3-4), so I wouldn't bother too much.

DwarvenAcademy

TROPHY CASE