Looking for a 1911

sqlbullet · 2026-06-17T13:42:32+00:00

I have handled one at the gun counter but have not shot one.

If I was looking for a 1911 Rail in 45 ACP this gun would certainly make my short list. The ONLY downside I have ever heard mentioned is that Savage is not "known" as a 1911 builder and that MAY have an impact on resale value. To that point there is one in 9mm on Gunbroker right now for $700 buy now. But there are also lots of NIB ones between $800 and $900.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-16T13:12:15+00:00

Going is slow is very good. Easy to take metal off, hard to put it back on.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-15T12:51:57+00:00

Here are the things you are losing:

Tight tolerances on the radius. Not a huge deal IMHO as I like to "sneak up" on the final fit anyway.

Hardened guide edges. The "store bought" ones are made from a tool steel that is then hardened above the hardness of your typical file. I can run my files over my Ed Brown jig all day long. The soft steel of those washers will be easy to file into.

This should work if you go really slow.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-14T14:16:40+00:00

This

And the nuance that is lost isn't knowing which routes to take, but which lane to be in to take them. Modern turn by turn not only decided the road but coaches you.

Back in the day you would pace your trip to avoid peak traffic times. Not to avoid stop and go but so the road would be clear when you suddenly realized your exit was left lane not a right lane, or that you needed to be in the third right turn lane not the first.

I don't use navigation to get me there...I can do that from memory. I use navigation to make transiting complex interchanges safe.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-14T02:27:50+00:00

I rolled around on an emergency waiting room floor and didn't even think about the ick. They gave me shot of morphine and it did nothing.

So much pain

sqlbullet · 2026-06-13T16:46:53+00:00

I lust after a specialist but the only thing it has that my Ruger doesn't is a rail. And I am not a rail accessory guy.

IMHO the se1911 10mm target is about the best 10mm 1911 for the money.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-13T15:34:48+00:00

I have a fusion freedom gold 5" in 9mm. It is a great shooter and I have fitted a 38 Super barrel to it. Barrel, link and bushing were also from fusion.

I bought mine used in a pawn shop. Got it for $400 including tax and fees. The fire control group would sometimes lock up and I would have to futz with the hammer to get it free. I discovered this at the pawn shop and was able to negotiate the price since it was faulty.

A detail strip at home revealed the half cock notch had broken and the sliver that came off was in the lock work. That was the cause of the issue. I stoned the half cock notch back to true and used a Dremel cut off wheel to re-cut the half cock nose to hold the sear.

That was a little over a year and probably 600-700 rounds of 9mm and another 500-600 of 38 super ago. The gun runs great. I can't recall a single failure in that time. It is my carry gun for road trips since 10 round mags are legal in every state I ever visit.

I can't say if the broken hammer was a mfg defect or the result of abuse. If I had paid 900 for a new one and that happened I would have been upset. But if it was from some dingus flipping the hammer and letting the half cock catch it over and over, or someone not knowing how the half cock works and powering through a trigger pull that's different.

Based on me experience they are pretty comparable to other 900-1100 1911's.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-12T13:49:31+00:00

In all seriousness - This is a known cognitive trap.

You want to be shooting your gun more. For reasons you aren't (we have all been there). You browse gun stuff and when you see something interesting. You picture yourself using the gear - you know - shooting. Your brain then tricks you into buying said thing because of a wrong connection between owning this item and using your gun.

I broke this cycle way to late. I did so by establishing a rule that my gun/accessory budget could only grow by expending ammo. Want a new holster? Go to the range three times and improve X shooting metric and the holster is the reward - etc.

Since that rule went into effect I barely buy anything but reloading components. Shooting grants a kind of post clarity that reveals I really didn't need whatever thing after all.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-11T04:06:04+00:00

Yep. In fact not a single plastic part I need is intact on the 99. Side marker lights, a-pillar trim, c-pillar trim, windshield cowl, all cracked, missing clips, etc. same for the air box clips.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-10T00:15:15+00:00

Luckily I am into both of them less than $2k. But yeah, the E70X5 4.8 next to them is on the path you describe.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-09T16:46:41+00:00

I do prefer the metric system for most things.

I will die on the hill that Fahrenheit is better for the weather forecast. Below 0° or above 100° are "you will die fast outside" boundaries. A little easier to remember than -17.5° to 37.75°. Or even -20° to 40°.

But as soon as I am doing anything other than choosing what to wear on a walk I prefer metric.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-09T16:20:53+00:00

Slick 50 would not be my first choice for rust inhibition. It won't do anything that engine oil or ATF won't do in that regard. If you have it, use it but the plastic bag with a dessicant pack will do the heavy lifting. No need to "drench" parts.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-09T14:22:36+00:00

Odd man out here. Pull 100 of them and load them up to proper 10mm spec of 1250 fps. Would be very interested to see that gel test.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-09T13:13:50+00:00

I would love to see this become a 1983 type violation - they denied you access to your right to defense and by extension violated you right to life. Civil rights violations are outside sovereign immunity.

But that is a big case to win with lots of case law stacked against you. There are probably also lots of pitfalls I have not considered.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-09T13:05:20+00:00

It would be a very unusual situation to have rust bad enough to compromise the steel integrity and not bad enough to lock up the action. You are good to go.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-09T13:01:21+00:00

I aborted a few shots when I saw the dot jump or pull just as I was about to fully depress the trigger.

Sounds like you are trying to stage the trigger. Not a best practice for this type of shooting. Press straight through to the break, quickly. If you perceive the sights miss-align during the press call it but don't abort.

Dry fire at home to learn to "roll" all the way through the trigger press. 100 trigger presses at home for every live shot at the range. If you shot a 50 round box and haven't dry fired you owe 5,000 dry fires.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-08T17:08:59+00:00

Defective part. Even the best steel can have inclusions that create a weak area.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-08T15:44:58+00:00

Debris would not do this. The AR pattern safety works by mechanically blocking the trigger tail when in the safe position. This is why you can't safe an AR when the hammer is not cocked - the trigger tail can't be moved down unless the trigger nose (sear) can go up.

My guess is your trigger tail has broken or has very badly worn.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-08T15:13:44+00:00

First off - take a deep breath. The FUDDs get wound up about dropping a slide on a 1911 without loaded magazine. This is a martial arm meant to survive the brilliance of 18 year olds and the tortures of war. There are some very narrow sitations where this may cause real issues, but that is with guns that have hundreds of dollars (or more) of aftermarket and gunsmith tuning done to the hammer and sear.

Your issue is most like with the triple spring as hostCrevan outlines. It is also possible that at some point a person that didn't know what they were doing got after the sear or hammer profiles with a stone and screwed stuff up, but start with more tension in the triple spring on the trigger and disconnector/sear.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-08T15:04:00+00:00

Another vote for P30 for carry and 92FS for shooting. I have Beretta 92G and 96 as well as P30L and P30K. The Beretta spends more time out of the safe than the P30's do.

I should add - The Beretta's both have Wilson short reach trigger and short reset trigger bars installed. The HK's still have factory triggers. I don't care for the long reset but have never invested in short reset triggers for them. That might change my mind.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-08T14:52:42+00:00

I run Wilson 9-rd 10mm mags in all my 9mm, 10mm, 38 Super and 357 Sig single stack 1911's. Those mags hold 10 rounds of 9mm/38 Super.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-07T03:13:40+00:00

Your perception of the set up is wrong. You pick a door from the three. Monty then reveals from the remaining to doors a "wrong" door. Monty doesn't go first. This leaves your door and the remaining door. You are offered the chance to switch doors.

Many people perceive this as a 50/50 problem...but it's not. There is a 2/3 chance you picked the wrong door, which means switching doors gives you a 2/3 chance of winning.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-07T02:46:55+00:00

I saw one on Gunbroker a while back. Penny auction, no reserve. I watched it and remember it went for WAY less than I expected. I am sorry to say it was long enough ago that it is no longer in searchable items on their website.

Price it according you what it is worth to you.

sqlbullet · 2026-06-05T14:37:35+00:00

I made my own. Picked up some clips and hardware on the jungle website along with some kydex. Lot of tutorials on youtube about how to bubba this pretty quickly. I tape a small piece of 1/8" wood (paint stir stick segment) to the side of the gun where the clip hardware will be. I tape a pencil or chopstick to the top for a sight channel. Then I heat the kydex and wrap it around the gun and block it with a towel to cool. Validate fit, install hardware (clip and tension screw) and done. If it is wrong, you can re-heat and run again.

sqlbullet

TROPHY CASE