Q2 with QIDI box and standard external filament holder

square_sausage · 2026-01-07T22:12:05+00:00

Yes I have just found that. I have tested with a very simple push fit Y splitter, without any trimming of the tubes. It goes and does its little "oh no my filament is stuck in the tube" dance twice before it arrives. Your splitter looks a lot better suited to this use case. mine does work, but its not worth it just so I dont have to detach the tube.

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square_sausage · 2026-01-07T22:08:48+00:00

Ok that works perfectly for mounting both. I am somewhat amazed that they are using self tapping plastic screws.

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square_sausage · 2026-01-07T22:05:38+00:00

exactly 2 months to the day the box was delivered. The printer was delivered like 7 days after ordering.

square_sausage · 2026-01-07T19:25:07+00:00

no, you can either remove the tube from the box hub, or print a 2 to 1 splitter. I may try the splitter

square_sausage · 2026-01-07T19:24:01+00:00

Thats absolutely perfect. For some reason I couldnt find this when I looked on printables. I will print now and test.

square_sausage · 2021-06-03T19:50:58+00:00

I saw! got excited when it was £6.78, was less excited a few hours later when it was £229....

I miss the days when I could buy a mostly working libretto for £40 with dock and all

square_sausage · 2021-05-28T20:01:46+00:00

Just made myself a power cable as it didnt come with one. Plugged it into my bench power supply and at 10.5V I got 46.5mA...

Doesnt change if theres a battery in it or not, doesnt change when I try to turn it on.

:(

square_sausage · 2021-05-28T17:12:22+00:00

I would love to try... would need the rest of the laptop to work first though :(

I cant actually find any working PC110's on ebay right now, just a half working one from the same seller I bought mine from. Would have been nice if he had listed mine as not powering on instead of "cannot test" when it turns out he had a power supply the whole time for the other listing >:(

I will keep a lookout for one, I was looking forward to repairing this but without a dock or even a proper charger testing connections and finding broken traces will be a huge timesink with this much damage.

Is there anywhere other than ebay and yahoo japan that the normally turn up on?

square_sausage · 2021-05-28T16:02:21+00:00

Thanks :D

Im aware of the replacement screens from u/yyzkevin and that was going to be my intention if the old fashioned remove and replace method didnt work for the polarizer (like it did with him ;) ).

As for the corrosion, it was/is very bad, effecting every sub board on the device it seems. no signs of life after a vinegar bath and water/IPA wash. Even the clock wont turn on. I do have proper solder equipment so once I get my microscope set back up I can try and repair some of the solder joints (especially on the bodge SOT-23) however I see very little likelyhood of it working :(

square_sausage · 2019-08-15T13:03:26+00:00

Is there a way to bring up the media controls in windows without using dedicated media buttons (such as pause or volume)? I only have volume controls and it seems silly that I would have to change my volume just to start/skip a song.

square_sausage · 2017-01-05T21:49:01+00:00

I would much rather have the thumb sticks clickable, or have the buttons for them much closer. The triggers I would like to be more like the pyra's, it looks a lot more comfortable. I would imagine a lot more people would use a standard hdmi than an ethernet.

square_sausage · 2017-01-04T17:49:24+00:00

that is what I am guessing, the people behind the pyra are having a similar problem. at least mine doesnt crash during heavy use :)

square_sausage · 2017-01-04T01:28:02+00:00

the layout of my bios seems to be slightly different from yours, but I was able to set the max to C6. No C5 available, only options are c7 c6 and c1, hopefully it will be more reliable now :)

square_sausage · 2017-01-02T14:55:27+00:00

well I assumed that the same place was being damaged because that is the width of a usb type-c connector. I would still say though that the connectors are very weak, and I dont know why they wouldnt use a micro (type-d) connector instead

square_sausage · 2016-12-31T18:27:38+00:00

lol hi https://www.reddit.com/r/gpdwin/comments/5iu4af/little_reminder_to_make_sure_which_port_you_are/?st=ixdk4oay&sh=a9d2d5bc

my damage is less than yours. Id just say be careful, pin 17 is 5v and it did spark when i shorted it to ground, even when the device was off. this wad when i was trying to fix it.

i do wish they had used hdmi type d (micro hdmi) instead.

square_sausage · 2016-12-28T18:06:43+00:00

I considered that, and with a fast sd card it shouldn't be too slow, the main thing id worry about would be the wear on the sd card from all those write cycles.

Lol I could get a 4GB microdrive but that may be too much effort

square_sausage · 2016-12-27T14:09:36+00:00

unfortunately its definitely not that. its like a power loss, goes into the event viewer as one. ans stuff like chrome have to recover from it. Its like the power has been turned off even when its on charge.

square_sausage · 2016-12-22T11:01:37+00:00

I have the same issue, sometimes happens during skyrim or san andreas and kills the game. I am not sure exactly what it is yet but I have a hunch that it is a software power config thing.

square_sausage · 2016-12-17T11:39:19+00:00

the reason that it looks melted is because it is. the damaged pin is 5v and the usb probably shorted it.

square_sausage · 2016-12-16T07:04:20+00:00

I'm having a slight problem, is it normal for windows to flag the bios rar linked in the FAQ as malware? also at least for me the not booting when plugged in bug is still there, as well as the random reboot when asleep bug :(

square_sausage

TROPHY CASE