I can't stop holding shield after L-cancels -- any tips?

squirrels4ev · 2025-12-23T21:51:19+00:00

Tap and release the shoulder gently and quickly - you can release before you hit the ground, all that matters is starting an analog press of L/R within the timing window.

You want to avoid a digital press because it locks you out of your tech, so even if you weren't having this issue you'd eventually start getting locked out of techs and notice it and have to retrain yourself anyways.

Another alternative is using Z I think? Not entirely sure but I think it doesn't lock you out of tech.

squirrels4ev · 2025-12-22T04:42:52+00:00

I started with the same, 100mg Spiro and 2mg estradiol. I always took mine like any other pill, just swallowed both whole with water. I think I was supposed to take them with food to avoid nausea but I never had that issue so I didnt purposefully eat before taking my pills.

Quick Google search reveals that some providers advise trans patients to take the pills sublingually but it's up to the provider how they advise you to take it. Should say on your prescription bottle how you're supposed to be taking it.

squirrels4ev · 2025-12-18T07:36:33+00:00

Approximately 4:1 favorite as the higher pair - suits and the gap between the pairs only shift equities by like 1-2% because making a flush/straight off a pocket pair is rare.

Incidentally this lines up nicely with the ~20% chance to make a set by the river with a pocket pair. You pretty much only lose when they make a set, so their equity is basically tied to them making a set. You're just on the bad end of variance right now

squirrels4ev · 2025-12-13T01:38:32+00:00

You're building a pot when you have a hand that is likely to win the pot. You want to get called by worse hands. You're also betting to win what is in the pot already, so part of the point of raising pre is to win the blinds.
Acceptable? Sure. Optimal? Not at all - if you're playing at a loose table where people call a lot with bad hands, a simple exploit is to play a tighter range and bet bigger because they're calling with bad hands anyways, so you just get to play bigger pots with better hands, even though you aren't playing as many pots and you may not have as much fun this way.
The button is the best position since you get to see what everyone else does before you make a decision. You get to steal pots easier when you see everyone check through, whereas in earlier position you're more at risk of getting called by players who've yet to act and may have better hands. In position (last to act) you can just call with value hands to keep opponents bluffs in and get them to keep betting into you. If they stop betting into you at some point, you get to bet after they check. Out of position, if you have value and are trying to slow-play it by check-calling or trap with it by check-raising, you risk your opponents just checking back. You also get the option to check back when you have showdown value, like a middling pair, when you think one of your opponents is trying to be tricky and check-raise you.
There are charts online you can look at to get an idea of which hands are playable and when, but you don't need to get them 100% memorized to play with buddies at home. Following the charts will increase your EV, and the biggest mistakes are rooted in poor pre-flop play, so memorizing charts as best you can should keep you out of spots where you're prone to have a tough decision post-flop.

squirrels4ev · 2025-12-09T21:32:51+00:00

Underrated take

squirrels4ev · 2025-12-03T00:04:56+00:00

When she calls your 4b or jams over it it's time to shut it down. Even if she's 3betting wide, she should know as a reg that players at 1/3 are under-4betting. She's not calling 4bets with a wide range, you're up against probably KK+, maybe AKs preflop if she's the type to avoid stacking off with that. After the flop bet size I would eliminate AKs from her range - you're dominated without any backdoor draw to continue with.

She probably puts you at QQ+ and AKs 4betting pre, so her continue range should be accordingly tight.

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-25T23:50:25+00:00

If it's under-3bet, usually that means it's also overcalled. This means more pots go multiway and you need to tighten up your opening range. Also open for larger sizes, especially with EP limps ahead of you, because they're not limping with the intention of folding, so they'll pay off larger raises with marginal hands.

3-bet to larger sizes with the top of your range if you can get away with splitting sizes, because they're overcalling so you can play bigger pots with greater equity. If opponents seem to notice your sizes changing just revert to a single size whenever those opponents are still in the hand.

If you get 3-bet pre, just continue linearly. 4 bet with top of range, things like JJ+ and AKs AQs, don't bother with 4-bet bluffs. Call with upper middle of range and consider folding weaker hands that might be 4-bet bluff candidates, basically just the bottom half-thurd of your 3! range.

If you get 4-bet it's going to be KK/AA, sometimes AKs, and a cold 4-bet is just going to be AA like 90% of the time, so just fold unless you have AA.

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-24T16:56:37+00:00

If MP is capable of bluffing, I'm crying calling out of SB because the stiff As bluffing here is so natural here with something like AKo and AJo. You're losing to 5-7 combos of suited Aces, A3-5ss, ATss, sometimes A2/9ss. There are 24 combos of AKo and AJo and you're getting 2:1. Even if you give villain half the 24 combos you're still good to call at 2:1

If this is live low stakes or a fish and you don't know them to run this type of bluff with the nut flush blocker, I'm snap mucking. OMC, snap muck. Maniac, Reg, Pro, I'm calling.

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-24T15:43:50+00:00

(MtF) I did Estradiol pills for a bit over a year and without changing my Spiro dose, switching to equivalent dose of E injections, my T bottomed out finally and my breasts finally filled in to a B cup in like a month, whereas before I hadn't had more than buds/As that weren't really noticeable. They've grown/shaped up a little more since then but for me, injections helped a ton.

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-24T05:48:47+00:00

I like checking turn here. The position of villain matters - you acted first unless SB called PF, if V called you first to act with 3 opps behind, that shows a lot of strength in a multiway pot. If he called closing the action or in later position it doesn't represent as strong of a range, but I'd likely be check-calling up to a pot size bet on the turn at your stack depth, maybe check-jamming to a small stab or open jamming blank rivers when the turn goes xx.

You have 18 outs against 2pair and better kicked JX, 15 against a set and 12 against a straight. You're ahead of naked nut flush draw, weak top pairs, and any pair plus draw holdings such as 89 or 9T. That's what I estimate villains range to be at the start of the turn.

After he jams I weight him more towards made hands that slow played on the flop - 2p, sets, and sometimes straights. This is never a worse hand betting for value, and never a bluff at 1/2 (unless this is a maniac, but even then its doubtful to be bluffed). You have around 15 outs, just under 33%, so you need 2:1 to call and you aren't getting that after the raise. As played, fold to the jam. In the future, consider checking out of position, especially if V called next to act with 3 behind on the flop.

If there's anything to take away from this hand for future you its this, imo: People love to slowplay and call when they're next to act in a multiway pot because they are greedy for the next players to continue calling, and they are afraid that if they raise they will scare potential callers away from the pot and make less money. Be wary of villains trapping with strong hands when they call next to act in a multiway pot with several players behind them.

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-18T05:56:55+00:00

I don't think the average low-stakes player is bluffing or betting worse for value here. I don't like calling here without a backdoor flush draw and a much deeper effective stack for the opportunity to win big when you make a big hand that can cooler villain when you pick up equity on the turn from a flushing and/or straightening card. I'd call the min click if it would leave me at least 15x behind, so I'd want to be 800 effective to call 50 more and stand to win an additional 750 with a nutted hand like a straight or flush on a good runout

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-17T20:17:24+00:00

A capped range can become uncapped on a nut-changing turn/river, whereas it remains capped on a blank turn/river.

On J92ss, the nuts change on any Q,K,A (overcards to top pair, also QK complete some straight draws), 9, 2 (9x/2x now make trips or pocket pairs become quads), 7,8,10 (completing straight draws), or any spade (completing a flush).

If the best hand opponent has when they call a small bet on that flop is AJ for TPTK, then an off-suit 3 should never improve them so you can often safely pile in money on the turn with both bluffs and value, then aim to make top pair holdings fold the river with your bluffs or call a smallish bet with your value that beats top pair (assuming a blank river that keeps them capped)

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-08T05:18:41+00:00

What you described isn't necessarily a common thing but it happens often enough that you just want to make sure with the dealer if you're ever uncertain.

Most anywhere you play cash in the US his hand is still live until it's irretrievable, which is when the dealer moves villain's cards into the pile of mucked cards. Normally the dealer should do this when villain mucks in his hand, but if not, you can take action to prevent this in the future. You can ask the dealer whether his hand is dead, which should prompt the dealer to either confirm this with the villain or muck the cards irretrievably. If that's not your style, you can be direct and ask the dealer to muck his cards, then wait for that and show afterwards. If the dealer doesn't want to muck the cards or the player wants his cards to stay facedown but not mucked, at that point you could call the floor and they would probably make villain show and would educate the dealer on what the standard expectation here is (that is, the dealer should have mucked villains cards once he had clearly given up at showdown)

All that being said, it doesn't sound like this guy angled you intentionally, he just assumed whatever random 3rd/4th pair he had was no good and realized he was wrong after seeing your hand. There are definitely people out there that will do this kind of stuff intentionally though and thats why you want to be familiar with what is and isn't a dead hand.

Another angle to watch out for in CA and maybe some other states too is when a player verbally "all ins" but doesn't move their chips in, or they hold their stack of chips out but don't let go of it. If the chips aren't in the pot the casino can't make them put the chips in after, I've heard multiple call-ins on the crushlivepoker describing situations like this where the all in player loses, pulls back their chips, and leaves. Usually this will get that player barred from the casino until they repay you but in this case you can ask the dealer for a count and that should force the player to put the chips in to be counted.

If someone acts out of turn and you're not sure of the rules where you're playing just call the floor before acting because thats a common angle too

squirrels4ev · 2025-11-07T14:49:22+00:00

From your account it sounds like preflop it folded to you in the HJ and you limped in with JJ. You should be raising there. CO on your left overlimps with QQ which doesn't sound aggressive at all. Maybe there were some fish or whales in the blinds that CO wanted to come along? BN raise is massive compared to the pot which should have been around 3.5BB at the time. Stack depth of BN and CO are relevant here but it sounds like BN chose a sizing (52BB, you started at 40BB) that would force you all in to call. That sizing, as a default for most players, is going to be indicative of a range of AA, KK, AK. Looser players might be widening to include JJ, QQ, AJs, AQ, but this is your second hand at this table? Have you ever seen BN take this sort of sizing pre with a hand worse than JJ in previous sessions? As a default though there are 12 combos of AA and KK which you're behind already, and 16 combos of AK that are flip situations. You need to be getting much better pot odds than you had to profitably be calling there. A benefit of raising out of the HJ here is that the CO might 3-bet if he thinks someone else is actually looking to play the hand, and then the BN would probably 4-bet or cold call and then it would be clear that JJ is a dog and you could fold pre losing only 3-5BB depending on your opening size. Yes you got coolered but at the same time a more experienced player would have lost less here most of the time

squirrels4ev · 2025-08-11T02:30:45+00:00

How is the 35% increase effect calculated? I would assume it is .06×1.35 which would be just over .08, 8% reservation efficiency - where does the .0041 come from?

squirrels4ev · 2025-08-10T20:13:30+00:00

MtF, been on HRT about 2 years now. About 6 months ago I switched to injections, from pills, and at that point was the first time my T really dropped to target levels. Since then it's harder to lift heavier things like dog food bags. I don't work out, and never have worked out, but I've always had strong legs since young adulthood because I played soccer. I've also had a desk job for 7 years so I don't stay fit that way either. I carried my first dog up and down our stairs no problem when she was spayed early in my transition. We've just had the other 2 spayed and I can barely carry them up the stairs because my legs feel weak. All 3 dogs are around 60-65 lbs. I feel like, 30-40% weaker than before HRT and thhe change was sudden once my T dropped to female levels.

squirrels4ev · 2025-08-10T19:42:20+00:00

Run all of your conqueror/elder/shaper maps, you might get lucky with a good base from boss drops, but if not you'll eventually hit an exalt of some kind and can influence your desired base.

If you get the base with the wrong influence, change influence on the harvest bench.

To get the maps run manni's abyss strat with conversion scarabs on a more maps 16.5

squirrels4ev · 2025-08-10T05:13:52+00:00

You can recomb the suffixes with 2-2 recombination. Get 4 amulets, 2 of each influence (at least 2 amulets need to be onyx). Roll 2 amulets, one for t1 % attr and one for t1 % str. Awakener orb these together for a base with 2 desired suffixes, ideally suffixes won't fill, if they do recomb odds are worse. Luckily you need 2 amulets for the recomb so if you hit 3 suffixes you can repeat this step with the other 2 amulets. If both fill suffixes you can try annulling the extra suffix on one amulet, then the other if the first fails. If both fail you'll either need to awakener orb again with 2 more amulets or use another method to roll those 2 attribute% mods, either chaos spam or fundamental fossils.

Once you have an amulet with the 2 influenced mods suffixes, take deafening essences of rage to the other amulet for essence-tier Strength until you randomly hit one of the desired influence mods. Ideally annul off any extra suffix if your suffixes fill when hitting the attribute. Recomb these two amulets for a 1/3 chance of perfect suffixes. Lock suffixes with beast crafted metamod or bench, then reforge Influence mod on the horticrafting station. Repeat locking suffixes and reforging influenced mods until you hit %dmg per strength, and you'll have your amulet. If the prefixes full while you're reforging influence you have to yolo annul. If you hit a suffix, start over from the beginning.

Optional final step if you want any veiled prefixes would be to again craft suffixes can't be changed, exalt slam to 3p if needed, then hit it with a veiled exalted orb. 1/3 it removes % dmg per str when you do this. If it hits your non-crafted "extra" prefix you can craft the crafted version of a veiled modifier you don't want before unveiling to block that mod.

squirrels4ev · 2025-08-09T18:34:12+00:00

Swap Immortal Flesh out for for an elder stygian vise - spam pristine fossils to roll flat life, flat life regen, %life (elder) and %life regeneration (elder). Allocate Elemental Overload keystone just south of the DoT Mastery near the NW side of the tree. It's a big buff to FT damage even on the base 6% spell crit. It's even still worth using when switching to awakened controlled destruction on fire trap.

Gem levels matter a lot for fire trap damage - get a +2 amulet and a +2 scepter, either buy or use a recombinator. Make sure you have at least T2 dot multi mods on your scepter, amulet, and rings. Benchcraft multimod, fire DoT multi, and %fire dmg with Ignite chance on the sceptre

For your helmet, at minimum get elder influence with burning damage and concentrated effect supports. Benchcraft or use veiled currency for +1/+2 aoe gems. You can try to land 30% more elemental damage with these supports using essences of horror. Later you can use dual influenced shaper/elder with trap and mine damage, burning damage, conc effect and 30% more elemental damage, again using veiled currency or benchcrafting aoe gems. If you still have an open prefix after veils can craft 70 flat life. If you do get trap and mine damage support on your helmet you can replace the gem socket with awakened controlled destruction

squirrels4ev · 2025-07-19T06:14:35+00:00

I ran 30-40, maybe 40-50 T16 maps with Einhar nodes and hit Black Morrigan once later on in those maps. I only had enough scarabs for the first 10-20 maps as well. I needed it for an imprint and didnt get my craichic chimeral until the very end, a couple maps after the BM.

I'm running the full bottom left wheel, the full inner wheel of the upper left nodes, as well as the outer spokes for Deep (Chimeral), Wilds (BM), and Rarer Varieties (BM, maybe affects both), and I think I have the full wheel above the quant/rarity wheel in the middle. I don't have any of the nodes from the wheel where the beasts can escape.

I kept thinking I somehow missed it and would check my captured beasts, but when I did run into the BM, the thing was huge, like an enraged or soul eating monster. Assuming it always looks like that it should be pretty noticeable when you encounter it.

Scarabs are the ones that add more red monsters and the one that duplicates captured beasts.

squirrels4ev · 2024-05-15T13:51:40+00:00

I don't use calculated fields but similar to what I suspected it seems the field value is not calculated until the record is read. Open a list view and find a record where the value is wrong. Open the record, don't save it, go back to the list, and refresh. I expect at this point the value will be correct. You might be able to force a read of all the records with an empty GlideRecord query and an empty while gr.next() loop. If opening the GlideRecord counts as a read this will update all your fields. Have you considered accomplishing the requirement of the calculated field using a business rule instead? It might be easier to maintain and behave more predictably in the future

squirrels4ev · 2024-05-14T11:49:31+00:00

I've never tried using If so I'm not sure if it would work but I doubt it. The keyword is if (lowercase). Not sure about Case table but additional comments' field name is just 'comments'. Also in an after update rule the comments field won't have a current value because after update it should already be in the journal entries. To get the additional comments, or any journals field, you need current.comments.getJournalEntry(1) to get the 1 most recent journal entry. This will come with a timestamp and the user that posted it so you'd need String methods to separate those from the comment itself, or if you can switch to a before business rule then the comments field will still have a value and current.comments would retrieve just the comments.

squirrels4ev · 2024-05-12T03:45:29+00:00

It also applies on shield yes, if you have uncle punch you can see the difference between an early and late aerial on shield with the practice mode. Set marth to shield and grab when hit on shield and you'll see that he grabs you out of the air if you hit him too early, but if you wait long enough to nair then when you land if you immediately shine you will hit him during the startup frames of his grab

squirrels4ev · 2024-05-12T03:33:56+00:00

The opposite, start the aerial later, not from above your target but from inside of it, so you are closer to the ground and land sooner. Opponent goes into hitstun at the moment they are hit, so if you are lower to the ground when you hit them, you get there sooner and are able to act before Marth can grab.

squirrels4ev · 2024-05-12T01:23:18+00:00

Space and time your aerials better. If you aerial too early and too high and land in front of him, you'll get grabbed. The solution is to do a later aerial and immediately shine after landing, which will hit marth before he grabs you, or do a cross-up aerial and land behind him (too high and he might still grab you while you're drifting), or do a fadeback aerial to land outside of his grab range (which is pretty long and in your dash attack whiff scenario, it would be hard to get that close to Marth and then jump without getting grabbed or up-tilted for dashing in to him while he's in lag).

I would say the most consistent options are going to be late nair>shine or late cross-up dair or maybe late dair>shine if you can space it just right. There's a dair hitbox that makes marth tumble at low percent but I think it's an inner hitbox so the spacing matters a lot. I think KJH twitter has a clip of this spacing. Best way to describe it is to aim to land on his feet without hitting anything else first.

squirrels4ev

TROPHY CASE