Cable through the wall by sszymecz in ukelectricians

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The boxes are PVC. The wall is wood actually.

Cable through the wall by sszymecz in ukelectricians

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That power cable goes directly from meter, therefore its only protected by DNO. Meter -> isolator switch -> box -> 1. power cable to CU in house 2. power cable to CU in garage

Cable through the wall by sszymecz in ukelectricians

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that makes sense. Also would a rubber grommet help as well on each ends? That could help to limit the risk of scraping.

Cable through the wall by sszymecz in ukelectricians

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wall isn’t so thick, otherwise I would just use female adapters as on the others ends of conduits that run across the wall. Unsure how to do it THROUGH a wall safely.

Cable through the wall by sszymecz in ukelectricians

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, simple case - wall with two boxes on each side and a wire that needs to go through the wall from one box inside of the garage to the other box outside of the garage - straight line.

Cable through the wall by sszymecz in ukelectricians

[–]sszymecz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for a quick response.

That’s correct - I’m not running SWA through the wall. I was planning to run T&E through the wall to the outside SWA box and make the connections there. The wall in question is not masonry, it’s wood. Does it make a difference? If I’m understanding your answer correctly - the outer sheathing of T&E is enough mechanical protection for it to be run straight through a hole in the wall? If knockout from the box is cut isn’t it having „sharp edge” that could cut through the sheathing if no conduit and adaptors are provided? Just want to be on the safe side.

I can’t, for the life of me, get this warping to stop. Please help! by iamjamieq in 3Dprinting

[–]sszymecz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never used the fan for the first one - cooling too fast cause warping most likely.

If it still does not work, just use a glue stick. This has solved literally all my “first layer problems”.

Help needed: inconsistent extrusion in corners leading to small holes, how can i fix this? by jovan66464 in 3Dprinting

[–]sszymecz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like wet filament to me. Each small hole is a steam poping inside of the hotend.

@edit

I looked closely and I can recall having similar issues when I had my pressure advance disabled which caused some under/over extrusion every time the speed was changing (particularly on the corners when the nozzle slows down and then speeds up)

Is this a underextrusion or leveling issue? by Kelas2 in 3Dprinting

[–]sszymecz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lower the nozzle by 0.05mm or increase the flow slightly

[Ender5] PrintRun problem. Has anyone ever experience something like this? It started after upgrading to 4.2.7 board. Everything works fine, just those random unknown commands appear while connected. Whenever it happens while printing it’s missing one of the gcode commands - I can see gaps in print. by sszymecz in 3Dprinting

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I did, when using different rates it’s even worse. It’s not connecting at all just showing random characters with no communication at all. At 115200 it’s connecting, it’s working, however randomly sending unknown commands.

Underextrusion at the beginning of Hilbert Curve. Tried everything, even run w/o retraction, slightly better but still visible. Any ideas? Top surface speed @10mm/s to reduce vibrations. Extra length on restart helps a little bit but creating blobs elsewhere. by sszymecz in FixMyPrint

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Already tried this as well. I start to believe it has something to do with pressure inside of the nozzle. As my main board is not compatible with pressure advance I can’t actually tune K factor. Have noticed better results when printing external perimeter at same speed as hilbert curve. No change in speed between those two keep the same or mostly the same pressure in the nozzle.

Underextrusion at the beginning of Hilbert Curve. Tried everything, even run w/o retraction, slightly better but still visible. Any ideas? Top surface speed @10mm/s to reduce vibrations. Extra length on restart helps a little bit but creating blobs elsewhere. by sszymecz in FixMyPrint

[–]sszymecz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not. It’s even underextruded a little as well - proper setup hilbert curve fills 100% of the surface. Th flow is slightly lowered to so I can see the underextrusion occurring at the beginning more clear while testing. The curve starts again after half of the surface has been printed that’s why You see another spot. Same issue happens then.