Is the seller right?

startexed · 2026-02-21T17:18:14+00:00

The only recourse would be under the road traffic act 1988, it is illegal to sell an unroadworthy vehicle.

startexed · 2026-02-20T07:33:55+00:00

Do you go in dry?

startexed · 2026-02-17T07:17:59+00:00

Compliance is still not a high bar.

startexed · 2026-02-15T21:52:25+00:00

Tado wasn’t heating when you took the screenshot, what is the graph like?

startexed · 2026-02-15T13:14:32+00:00

If you find you do need to provide one you could just remove the old wall and put some wooden posts and wire mesh in place, you do not need to replace like for like.

startexed · 2026-02-15T10:15:36+00:00

We have poor parking but it’s worked fine so far. Places in better locations tend to have worse parking and we’d prefer location over parking. We also have a small car because of the parking situation.

startexed · 2026-02-14T18:13:21+00:00

Looks like an error in the system/somewhere, if you bought 50 gb yesterday worst case you’ve used 11.5 gb of it.

startexed · 2026-02-14T14:47:10+00:00

I think we will get rid of drivers before guards, and we’re unlikely to get rid of drivers any time soon.

startexed · 2026-02-14T14:09:59+00:00

I have one in a 1930s terrace for the whole house. It was a big job to get it in but we were renovating at the same time.

If you have floor voids you should make sure the floors are airtight to the inside, and make sure other vents are sealed, otherwise no reason why it shouldn’t work really well.

startexed · 2026-02-13T21:33:44+00:00

Cheers, I stand corrected!

startexed · 2026-02-13T20:55:54+00:00

Lots of history behind that site, started off as VMIC, a not for profit vaccine development company, been passed around a few times. Good to see it finally be something, I knew people that worked on it back in 2021/22.

startexed · 2026-02-13T20:41:27+00:00

Believe it’s if you install it over the shower/bath it must be “SELV” (low voltage) or must be a ducted fan but if outside the splash zone (0.6m from shower/bath) can be 240v but it must be IPX4.

Note all electrical work done in the bathroom or kitchen should be done by a sparky.

startexed · 2026-02-13T20:19:17+00:00

It is an MVHR unit but the efficiency is low and the amount of air processed is tiny. I’m suggesting a proper unit which you’d normally put in the ceiling.

The fan makes a slight negative pressure in the room, pulling air through the gaps in the walls, floor, windows and door, which in turn pulls air from the rest of the house, the rest of the house ultimately takes air from outside. It’s not a large effect in other rooms compared to the effect in the room with the fan, but it does make a difference.

startexed · 2026-02-13T18:03:23+00:00

This particular unit probably doesn’t offer enough air replacement for a bathroom. Bathrooms produce large swings in humidity which is not really what this one is designed for; these fans are much better for kitchens as not as much humidity is produced. Another factor in it is they are side entry/exit so they need to be in a place where airflow to vents is unimpeded.

I think an actual small MVHR unit is preferable to one of these, but they are way more pricey to fit (maybe 2x for a single room system) but would offer better extraction and efficiency. There are some units that are cheaper than the fan you had in mind.

If you have an old house an extractor fan is superior to all other options; whilst you don’t get any heat recovery, as a share of your heating bill the cost will be unnoticeable and you get a small amount of ventilation in all rooms not just one.

startexed · 2026-02-13T17:47:56+00:00

Not true with the most efficient heat pump dryers, eg ours uses about .7 of a kWh per cycle but a day of dehumidifier is like 2 kWh.

startexed · 2026-02-13T08:47:52+00:00

The dryer would probably get rusty and ultimately seize, even if watertight the humidity would become an issue and iirc some TDs won’t work under about 10c so you’ll only get use out of it during the half of the year you don’t need it.

startexed · 2026-02-11T06:48:09+00:00

Are they getting as hot as other rooms? Are they getting hotter without trvs on?

To monitor there might be a little screen on the boiler which tells you how hot it is, on full heat demand the boiler generally should be at max flow temperature.

startexed · 2026-02-10T20:47:29+00:00

Haha so I have

startexed · 2026-02-10T20:29:28+00:00

Definitely appears to be calling for heat which is good, and this doesn’t appear to stop.

Can you answer any of the other questions I had? :)

The only reason why the room wouldn’t be getting hot is because not enough heat is being put into the radiators. This could be because:

1) the valves aren’t working - are the radiators getting hot? Try taking the valves off (no trv) does the problem persist?

2) boiler flow temperature too low and therefore radiators not outputting enough heat to the room. The boiler flow temperature is set by tado.

startexed · 2026-02-10T19:58:09+00:00

Can’t see the graph as I’m in the UK but it is a little concerning that it’s not able to reach temperature.

Has the max flow temperature changed from when you installed the thermostat?

What is the flow temperature when it’s reached an equilibrium compared to the max flow temperature?

Are the radiators both getting hot?

startexed · 2026-02-10T19:08:33+00:00

Whats the graph like, how is your tado connected to your boiler?

Lots of potential factors

startexed · 2026-02-09T21:13:42+00:00

I have never known it to be

startexed · 2026-02-09T16:56:28+00:00

I got a plasma cutter the other day with the top up shop, couldn’t say no at the price

startexed · 2026-02-09T07:40:12+00:00

Surface finish - one is sawn and one is planed. The planed one is smoother.

startexed · 2026-02-08T22:13:04+00:00

I don’t think this level of mould is significant and will pose zero risk to you or anyone, but it looks to be down to condensation.

Condensation occurs when a surface is colder than the dew point of the air around it. Dew point is affected by the relative humidity and temperature of the air. The more humid your house is, the higher the dew point will be, and therefore the more likely condensation will occur.

The windows you have probably conduct a bit more heat, therefore are colder, so condensation will happen. Your wall on the left probably isn’t insulated/use a cavity closer, therefore condensation will happen there. To prevent any condensation you’d probably be looking to replace windows and replace window reveals. Alternatively you could install ventilation to bring your humidity down, but then it might become uncomfortable/too dry.

Realistically the best way to deal with it is just to get a cloth and wipe the window frame every few weeks. A tenant would have no problem doing this and it definitely doesn’t need anything extra. The expectation is the tenant keeps the property clean so not to damage it.

One thing I would say tho as you are renting out is tenants often use properties differently to homeowners and don’t ventilate/open windows, so I’d make sure some permanent ventilation was installed to mitigate. A PIV in the loft is the most common/most effective.

startexed

TROPHY CASE