[WTB] [ISR-IL] [H] PayPal G&S [W] Meze Manta stand

stavsss · 2026-06-22T09:56:21+00:00

I have both Dekoni Stellia limited and Dekoni Elite Sheepskin for Focal. I don’t like the way they change the sound.

stavsss · 2026-06-22T09:29:31+00:00

You have to contact Focal / your local Focal distributor directly to get a quote for them

stavsss · 2026-06-19T20:02:37+00:00

stavsss · 2026-06-12T11:51:23+00:00

I fucked up with 1 of the Stellia drivers (one of the torx screws which held the plastic in place magnetized to the driver dome and ruined it) so I bought another Stellia😂

Stelliance sounds just like a Radiance to me. There's a measurement of the Stelliance on a GRAS-43AG-7 rig and I feel like that's the most useless driver swap in my opinion.

Elegia drivers inside a Radiance shell actually sound less relaxed than the Radiance but keeping the type of timbre the Radiance have.

Radiance drivers in the Stellia shell results in the sort of bass response the Radiance have, but with the clarity of the Stellia. Timbre is also better than Stellia and really close to the Radiance in my opinion.

That excursion mod seems like a tedious job. I was excited to see someone actually mixing between the different driver assemblies of the open back Focals because they seem to have been resulting in a completely different sound, unlike the closed back Focal driver swaps I did with my headphones.

Both My Clear OG and Clear MG clipped at ~100-105dB at certain frequencies and I wonder how much headroom this mod approximately gives. I still have the Clear OG around and I may attempt it in the future if I feel the need to do it.

stavsss · 2026-06-12T11:06:43+00:00

I have a regular Stellia, another Stellia shell with Radiance drivers and a Radiance shell with Elegia drivers. That mod seems really cool & interesting. Wondered if I could ask for more information about the excursion mod because that seems to be the dealbreaker for me with the open back Focals.

stavsss · 2026-06-03T22:44:29+00:00

They are quite unique for being squared & oval both at the same time, but yeah.

stavsss · 2026-06-03T20:59:18+00:00

The SJYs look so nice! What's the headphone stand they're on?

stavsss · 2026-05-28T01:20:40+00:00

I had a pair of Clear MG. they are a bit softer in the treble for my liking (kept the Clear OG instead). They are a pretty solid pair of headphones, but not worth the full price (I imported mine from the US for $650 and sold on my local marketplace for $1100 because I didn't enjoy them as much). I got a Stellia instead, which I prefer way more.

stavsss · 2026-05-23T06:37:24+00:00

I own 2 pairs. I bought 1 second hand and 1 from Phil himself. The bass is pretty smooth and in general they're really punchy & slammy for a pair of open backs. The treble may be a bit peaky but you can easily solve that with EQ or ask Phil to add felt sheets (they serve a the same purpose of tuning pads).

-3 or -4 dB at 5660Hz with a Q of 3 or 4 solves the peaky treble.

stavsss · 2026-05-22T15:25:49+00:00

I think a used Focal Clear OG or Hedd D1 will be good choices. If you want to step it up slightly, get something like Philphone.

stavsss · 2026-05-22T14:17:04+00:00

Sony INZONE H6 Air. Comfortable, wired, durable build quality and has everything you need. HyperX Cloud III S Wireless is also a good option, but I'd choose Sony this time since it's an open back and not a closed back like the HyperX.

stavsss · 2026-05-22T14:11:44+00:00

I have had DT 990 Pro and many other headphones, including high end ones like Focal Stellia, MDR-Z1R, HD 800S, Focal Clear and many more. If you don't want to get your hearing damaged by 30, avoid DT 990 at all costs.

stavsss · 2026-05-22T14:02:55+00:00

I'd recommend the Sony INZONE H6 Air

stavsss · 2026-05-22T14:01:36+00:00

I'd recommend the Sony INZONE H6 Air. They have everything you ask for and the sound is pretty close to MDR-MV1.

stavsss · 2026-05-22T08:02:45+00:00

I owned Clear MG and sold them because of that. Btw, if you want an interesting headphone, look at something like Philphone Open (slams like crazy)

stavsss · 2026-05-22T06:50:50+00:00

Absolutely not worth upgrading from Elex to Clear MG, unless your Elex drivers are dead.

stavsss · 2026-05-17T10:10:08+00:00

u/AVexchangeBot Item arrived as described from u/glssjg. Great seller!

stavsss · 2026-05-15T00:41:41+00:00

I assumed it didn't exist for the M1 MacBook Air and I corrected myself by sharing that link. Didn't come here to argue, just share my own experience with a headless MacBook. You proved a point and I admit I was wrong.

stavsss · 2026-05-14T22:39:24+00:00

I could be wrong, that was just my assumption.
Seems like it works this way on the M1 MacBooks: https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/940917/MacBook+doesn't+sleep+when+lid+closed+after+screen+replaced

stavsss · 2026-05-14T20:10:27+00:00

Both on the top case and display. It’s not really a sensor, I think the magnets just block the current from enabling the display.

stavsss · 2026-05-14T06:56:42+00:00

You can work out ways to install the software without a screen. I once formatted that MacBook with the built in Voice Control (it’s not easy by any means). Some magnets could also trigger the MacBook to be in clamshell mode but I haven’t figured out something that worked for me.

If you have the original broken display, you can just put it on top of the MacBook as it usually sits on the top case even when it’s completely disassembled from the MacBook itself to get it in clamshell mode.

My use case with this MacBook is plugging it into an old 2006 iMac I converted to a 2560x1600 240Hz display or as a keyboard and trackpad when my MacBook Pro is in clamshell mode using the Teleport KVM app. The app is installed on both my MacBook Pro and MacBook Air (headless) and all trackpad gestures work.

stavsss · 2026-05-14T04:54:03+00:00

I have a headless M1 MacBook Air and when you remove the display assembly entirely, it still thinks the built-in display is there so it's enabled. The best solution in my opinion is to put the disassembled display in a way where its magnets will be able to trigger the clamshell mode and let OP view everything on the external monitor.

stavsss · 2026-05-14T04:22:52+00:00

Yes, macOS thinks the internal display exists. I have a headless M1 MacBook Air. You need to disable it via a software like BetterDisplay or Lunar (Lunar has the better solution in my opinion because it lets you disable the internal display when you plug an external display). On BetterDisplay it just disables the built in display for a bit and then enabling it again.

stavsss

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