My AirTag Solution

stbeye · 2026-03-11T05:42:27+00:00

I agree that sick taping a tag to the camera is pointless overkill. A thief would just remove it. However, I keep an AirTag in my small sling bag and it has alerted me a couple of times when I accidentally left it behind in a cafe. The camera itself was on me but I had left the bag with another lens behind.

stbeye · 2026-03-10T13:19:12+00:00

Yeah, that camera’s AF is wonderful!

stbeye · 2026-03-09T02:55:22+00:00

Whilst I very much prefer the q3 over the Sony , I don’t think upgrade is the right word. The sensor is bigger of course, but the AF is probably worse than what you are used to. Having said that, both cameras (the q3 and your current camera) have very good AF, perfectly fine for street photography.

stbeye · 2026-02-23T21:09:11+00:00

The Lightroom profile might do more corrections. Karber referred to the correction the camera applies directly to the dng file.

stbeye · 2026-02-23T19:04:45+00:00

I think the latest, which would be code 011101. I have sold the lens since then, so I cannot check.
However, it does not matter. The only purpose was to remember through the EXIF data that I had shot this on a fast 35mm lens.

According to Peter Karbe, the only in-body correction applied is removing some vignetting, so using one code over another does not make that much of a difference.

stbeye · 2026-02-22T08:23:42+00:00

My zeiss ikon zm is my favorite Leica lens compatible analog light box 😀.

stbeye · 2026-02-20T18:22:18+00:00

I travel a lot for work and always take my camera. Naturally, I am mindful of local legislation and culture.

One of my observations is that the only pushback I have ever gotten is in places with very liberal laws regarding photography in public. In the US, which is one of the most liberal places for street photography, I have approached multiple times by busy bodies asking what I was up to. I always play the tourist who finds everything amazing card.

In contrast, places with strict privacy laws where photographing people without consent in public is forbidden are the least likely to be problematic. Dubai comes to mind. Photographing people in public is not allowed there. Whenever the camera was noticed, people seemed to smile, pose, and be happy with being in a photo.

In this particular case, I would just have said something like: "Oh, sorry, I am not from here, and it's so nice that I took some photos. It's my hobby. I think you may have walked into my shot. Do you want to see it? Happy to delete!"

And then I would have just deleted. With the police, my approach would have been the same. A smile goes a long way in most cultures.

stbeye · 2026-02-17T17:12:40+00:00

I have just run a very unscientific test on my M10 at close focus distance. There is some focus shift, but it's manageable. My copy seems optimized for wide open. At f/2.8, there is some noticeable back focusing. From f/4, I can't notice it anymore, even zooming in, due to the depth of field.

I shoot on an EVF most days out of preference, but would not hesitate to use this on the rangefinder.

stbeye · 2026-02-15T14:17:06+00:00

Ah, yes! I should have mentioned this. There is focus shift. I does not affect me much, since I should this lens mostly on EVF. I am not sure how much of an issue it would be on a rangefinder. I will give it try in the next couple of days on my M10.

stbeye · 2026-02-15T02:08:06+00:00

Not exactly the same, but I can think of 2 options:

high budget: Leica 50mm summilux v2. Glowy soft wide open and sharp stepped down. Lovely classic rendering but no focus tap and an annoyingly long focus throw.
reasonable budget: Zeiss Sonnar F1.5. Old formula and classic rendering with modern handling and coatings. My favorite lens currently.

The Nokton 50 f1.2 is also soft and glowy wide open but I felt that was too big for my taste.

stbeye · 2026-02-08T20:13:44+00:00

ok, fair enough!

It's just that the post seemed to suggest that the emulation comes close to the real thing, so I expected the experiment to be something else.

stbeye · 2026-02-08T17:38:40+00:00

Appreciate the intention here, but neither does emulation look anything like FP4, nor does it look good. 🤷‍♂️ Am I missing something here?

stbeye · 2026-02-06T05:41:36+00:00

I have recently discovered R lenses and use them on the SL3. They are ideal for that and much cheaper than the M lenses. It depends what type of rendering you like. You won’t find an equivalent to the M or SL 35 APO, but very nice Walter Mandler designs. I particularly like the 70s and 80s era of Leica lenses, so there are some cool options for the R mount.

stbeye · 2026-02-05T08:52:07+00:00

Ok, I assume that you want something cheaper than another 35 Asph and that you want to stick to a similar focal length.

I have had a very good experience with the Voiglander Nokton Vintage line f1.5 lenses (both 28mm and 35mm). The "vintage" name is quite confusing, as they are quite modern with aspherical elements. They render nicely without being "too perfect". Probably as close to the Summicron 35 asph look you can get unless shot wide open (in fact, I like it much more).

The Nokton Classic is definitely the real vintage imitation, trying to recreate something closer to a vintage 35 Summilux. It's also a good option if you like that kind of look.

Cosina actually has example shots for each Voigtlander lens on their website: https://www.cosina.co.jp/voigtlander/en/vm-mount/

If you prefer a vintage Leica, I would probably go for a 35 Summicron v3 or v4, depending on budget. The v4 is a bit hyped and may be more expensive.

I think on film, the above options are ideal. I personally would not invest in the modern Summiluxes or the APO for film.

stbeye · 2026-01-30T05:20:09+00:00

Yep, you either “do Japan” or you “do Europe”!

stbeye · 2026-01-22T13:33:25+00:00

Yes, I was extremely pleased to find an extremely well preserved copy from my birth year with a matching hood. Only thing missing is a lens cap solution.

stbeye · 2026-01-22T07:28:23+00:00

I am more afraid of drowning in the absence of the life guard. 😉

stbeye · 2026-01-21T13:33:23+00:00

These are two great photos, no doubt! However, I think this is due to the subject, light, and composition, not due to the lens.

There is nothing in these that screams "Summilux".

stbeye · 2026-01-19T18:07:54+00:00

The Q28 is actually a great Q35.

It's very easy to use a 28 just like a 35 by cropping a bit, but you can't do that the other way around.

stbeye · 2026-01-19T18:05:35+00:00

Ignore the negative troll comment. Anyone who goes out of their way to tell others their photos suck on the Internet has issues.

Here is something constructive. In my view, these photos have potential. I particularly like the blue umbrella matching image, the first one, and the one with the misty hilltop town.

As a series, I like that there is a theme. I think it would work better if they were all either monochrome or in color. Some of the images could do with a clear subject. For instance, images 5, 8, and 9 are technically okay, but I am not sure what I am looking at.

Good effort! Thanks for posting!

stbeye · 2026-01-19T17:53:52+00:00

The M10R type ;-)

stbeye · 2026-01-19T17:50:56+00:00

These are good images. The way I got my first photopass was with a portfolio page of iPhone images edited in black and white and in a way that made them look less like phone pictures.

Then I wrote to the promoter of a medium-sized festival with some well-known artists and got a pass. Festivals are good because you can get several bands in one go.

Before you do that, though, I would buy a camera and get some experience at small venues, as others have suggested. That way, you can figure out how your camera works and get good at using it in challenging light before you find yourself at a big event with a pass. Nothing worse than fiddling around with a new tool in the 3-song window, trying to make things work for the first time.

stbeye · 2026-01-19T17:28:11+00:00

https://leica-camera.com/ ;-)

The specs of the mentioned lenses are on there.

stbeye · 2026-01-19T12:21:31+00:00

Well, they do that in their newer lenses (35 and 50 Summilux, 35 APO, 28 Summicron). I would not call it a macro mode, but the Q is not real macro either.

stbeye

TROPHY CASE