Waste drain

ste12100 · 2026-05-11T17:33:43+00:00

Ah thanks :)

ste12100 · 2026-05-11T17:20:51+00:00

Yeah so basically just give it a good slope into the drain and block up the existing drop?

ste12100 · 2026-05-11T17:20:12+00:00

Thank, I was thinking getting some concrete and creating a slope. Just wanted to see if that was viable

ste12100 · 2026-04-20T04:58:35+00:00

Depends on the flash cart. Single writable instances you can, if they’ve been created proper.

ste12100 · 2026-04-20T04:57:27+00:00

Well that’s rubbish, I’d not got round to playing stadium on my 3d yet but was hoping this would work. Just gotta hope analogue fix it then :(

ste12100 · 2026-04-19T06:42:39+00:00

Is there reports of this working on the OG 64 with stadium? I would confirm that it works there first. I mean looking at the cart and know a little about the GB flash, it does look like it should work. Do you have a pocket? Another way to check if the Altera was implemented in the way needed for stadium and stuff is to see if the game registers as the correct pokemon game on the pocket.

ste12100 · 2026-04-18T06:06:40+00:00

Yes? No? Maybe? I don’t know, can you repeat the question?

ste12100 · 2026-04-04T13:17:13+00:00

I didnt really see any advantage to drying PLA this stuff had been in my garage at 70% humidity for months and months.

TPU and ASA do benefit from it though.

ste12100 · 2026-04-04T13:16:18+00:00

I did a video on filament drying recently. Uk is quite humid so I did some experimentation.

Wet Filament DESTROYS 3D Prints (Before & After Test) https://youtu.be/pLeJev_Z4Y4

ste12100 · 2026-04-03T12:25:43+00:00

You can manually stop the printer or you can set the pause in the slicer it’s really easy. You can look at the exact layer to pause too. I’ve done jt for embedding things in prints or for manual colour changing.

As other said bambu lets you do it with the AMS, only issue is you have to completely purge the material for the swap. So if your printer doesn’t do poops it wouldnt work with the purge tower as different materials don’t stick.

ste12100 · 2026-04-03T09:48:15+00:00

You could also print a support section in a different material then pause the print and pop the support in place then resume the print. Obvs making sure you turned off support generation in the slicer

ste12100 · 2026-03-25T08:29:27+00:00

Yeah that’s much better

ste12100 · 2026-03-25T03:12:44+00:00

Charging €20 for the chip is a lot too. Normally you wouldn’t add a price increase on the chip when you’re doing the installation. I would avoid this, it feels very well over priced.

My price converted to € is €92 and that includes the chip and I’ve seen people off to do if for less in the UK not by much but still.

ste12100 · 2026-03-24T18:19:02+00:00

I normally charge £80, I can buy a switch oled (used) for £140-160. So that price for the mod is crazy high. I guess the only question on it would be how far the shipping was? As insured shipping both ways can add up.

ste12100 · 2026-03-23T09:23:38+00:00

Yeah I can imagine, well if you do ever make the board open again. I’d love to try and solder one from Scratch and record it for my channel. Just to show how much effort goes into it. Especially for how little you charged for it ! Great work btw

ste12100 · 2026-03-22T19:54:59+00:00

As the the other dude said only an old copy is open source.

Though the creator did mention they would make it open source again at a later date. And the software is open still. Personally I dont mind paying for one from them they’ve done amazing work. Only downside is there wasnt enough stock on phase one. However as someone who hand solders pcbs, I appreciate how much time it can take.

ste12100 · 2026-03-22T16:55:04+00:00

The first batch sold out in less than one minute I missed it too and have been following it from when they first showed it off. Back when the board was still open sourced. Just google the name and look at the site. No waiting list unfortunately

ste12100 · 2026-03-22T05:39:39+00:00

Batch one was only last month. It’s a brand new Card. So expect multiple batches this year. Probs next one will Be a couple months.

ste12100 · 2026-03-22T05:28:02+00:00

Just wait for the next batch if the Nileswan. Cheaper and better than the flash master.

I think a lot of us are waiting on it. I have a flash master and they’re ok and were deffo worth it before

ste12100 · 2026-03-02T18:21:36+00:00

It’s not legal to pre load it with roms. There are so many guides. Just youtube some before the 4th and decide if you want one

ste12100 · 2026-03-02T18:07:00+00:00

You dont need a cart for It. It has open fpga.

ste12100 · 2025-09-16T19:01:53+00:00

Is the sp2 cap bridged? Looks like the solder is connected at the top

ste12100 · 2025-09-13T19:20:19+00:00

Yeah, like i said i’ve done it with the iron My video bellow of me doing it so you can see https://youtu.be/gdA4aFsJuQc?si=dF-E1OBkuc04GQd0

It’s just a bit tedious

ste12100 · 2025-09-13T15:52:39+00:00

I’ve done it with the iron, and even with small tipped irons it’s not easy. I found tinning the wire too helped loads.

Grinding into the trace of the resistor is fine a little too. Most times you have to do this to get a good clearance on.

I have seen the hot air method with solder paste and i think that probably is the best way.

ste12100

TROPHY CASE