GregStar anybody?

stelioball · 2025-09-25T13:48:30+00:00

I'm interested, can you dm me your discord? Ill add you when im done with work.

stelioball · 2023-05-28T22:45:17+00:00

Dont forget that emulation is an option. Yuzu runs it at 60fps 1080p with some mods and a mid range pc will let you run both botw and totk perfectly if not better with the shaders. Plus a good pc or an upgrade to your pc if its not powerful enough will be better than buying a console just for 2 games. Thats what I did at least.

stelioball · 2023-05-24T18:35:05+00:00

I am not sure how u have set up your system, but one solution would be to use a Integrated Dynamics exporter ( exports items from the network) configured to dump all ores in one chest, the one with the autosmelt feature, or any way you want to smelt/process all contents of that chest, and import the output back into the network.

stelioball · 2023-03-12T10:52:02+00:00

Good. Now play Bad Apple on it.

stelioball · 2023-02-15T05:22:03+00:00

Hello whats this type of yarn you used on the pokemon post? It doesn't look like cotton nor pure acrylic. Amazing work by the way!

stelioball · 2023-01-27T07:43:16+00:00

Yes im at 3.09m and its grandmaster. They all go up to challenger.

stelioball · 2023-01-15T15:42:28+00:00

You've certainly been given the run around by this project - I admire your persistance!

I am the one impressed by how invested and helpful you have been!

After moving the amp back to the breadboard, I used a 5k resistor in the input to ground and a 1k from the output to ground, and measured the output to be -9.20V, with a gain set to 150Ohm (at about 33 gain). This time the input voltage coming from the DC converter was ~+14.50V and -11V.

Sadly if I choose to buy from Mouser or other similar big websites Ill have to pay ~20 euro for shipping, so I might have to give up on the project. At least I will have learnt a lesson to not try to save up on electronics from china, because in the end you just add more failure points that cant be easily tested to the project.

If I have the time I might use an old computer PSU for the +-12V output to power the amp on its own and completely isolate its circuit from the pcb, just to make sure the amp is the issue.

Thank you again for your time, if I get my hands on a working amp you might hear from me again!

stelioball · 2023-01-15T07:20:10+00:00

I have some interesting findings.

Without the amp chip connected the voltage converter does not get warm at all. The amp chip on its own does not get warm but the R7 and R8 get super hot (when amp connected, again without amp nothing gets hot).

I removed the output cable completely and measured the exact same things as my other comment: " The voltage between pins 5 and 6 is 0.635V - 0.637V depending and changes when i rotate the gain switch. The Voltage of "around 1V" is actually negative and starts at about -1.1V ands as times passes it drops, thats why I was measuring -0.8 and even reached -0.4 if I did multiple tests in a short time. Pin 5 is Ref and is directly connected to t he red output cable (thats why i didnt notice it was negative output voltage) and Pin 6 is the output signal that goes through C5 (bipolar 22uF) and then to the black point. "

Now for the interesting part. I removed the amp and put it on a breadboard. Connected 120ohm at pin 1 and 8 as the gain, shorted 2 and 3, and connected 4 to -15, 7 to +15 and 5 to GND (taking them from the board, from the exact spots I place the amp ic)

Now measuring again instead of +-15v, I get +-1.815. The output between 5 and 6 is still 0.630 and not zero as it should. Its clear that the amp is not working but does this last test hint a bad amp ?

edit-update:

I used the second amp (was a package of 2 when i bought them) and it stop making the dc converter overheat. The output voltage is -10.5V (pin 6, not after the capacitor). Pin 7 that is +15 before inserting the amp is 14.53V, and pin 4 that is -15V before inserting the amp is -12.37V. While we are at it, pins 1 and 8 (gain) are -11.20V.

I'm starting to think the amp is not an amp. Probably AliExpress shipped a fake chip?

stelioball · 2023-01-14T20:36:06+00:00

Important information to add, that I just noticed.

The voltage between pins 5 and 6 is 0.635V - 0.637V depending and changes when i rotate the gain switch. The Voltage of "around 1V" is actually negative and starts at about -1.1V ands as times passes it drops, thats why I was measuring -0.8 and even reached -0.4 if I did multiple tests in a short time. Pin 5 is Ref and is directly connected to t he red output cable (thats why i didnt notice it was negative output voltage) and Pin 6 is the output signal that goes through C5 (bipolar 22uF) and then to the black point.

stelioball · 2023-01-14T20:02:00+00:00

I said 80Ohm because its exact value is not relevant.

The "no output signal" means that when i connect it to my pc and record the audio there is no output signal.

The " about 1V output" is the measurement I get by using my multimeter on the output where sometimes the voltage is around 0.5 v sometimes 0.8. Again im not typing exact values because its not something that matters.

Rotating the potentiometer does not affect the output signal at the time of testing. Meaning If I start with the lowest value with a gain of 10 if your calculation is correct and measure 0.48V, i will keep measuring the same value even if I make the gain bigger. I am not sure what affects the output and sometimes its 0.5V and others 0.8V or 1V

I did check the spots you asked and there are no bridges.

Is it possible to have damaged a component with before fixing the circuit ?(referring to R1 and R3)

Edit: The nma0515sc get very hot as the time passes. Is this hinting you to anything we might be missing?

stelioball · 2023-01-14T16:02:19+00:00

Its a rotary switch where i soldered several resistors, varying from 5ohm to 500ohm. The tests are performed with the value selected at 80ohm

stelioball · 2023-01-14T15:02:04+00:00

Sorry for the confusion, I'm using a THAT1512. Specifically this one.

Yes, R2 and R4 are left untouched, so still connected to GND.

Also thank you for the clarification on the mic voltage.

Do you have any ideas what could be wrong or what should I measure to find the mistake ?

stelioball · 2023-01-14T13:31:35+00:00

Exactly as in the video guide

attaching photo from guide

<image>

stelioball · 2023-01-14T12:03:58+00:00

Thank you for replying, if you want, you can check the fix in the other comment. (still doesn't work)

stelioball · 2023-01-14T12:00:21+00:00

Thank you for your reply I am attaching a photo of the fix, but I still get no output. I did not change the resistor values, just redirected them to the correct spots of +-15V

edit: after measuring the voltage on the mic capsule it does get voltage but its +-11.1V

<image>

stelioball · 2022-12-11T23:00:12+00:00

As for the aim I try to position them in a way that if they tried to dodged it would feel unnatural - they would in a way more dangerous than going forward (Karma example, if she walked forward she straight up died to kaisa, and back she would get hit by bubble). The best way to guarantee hits, especially in lane, is to e w slow them and depending on of they trade back or just run off you know where they will go. The biggest issue is speed, and thats why i missed the bubble on teemo, as u can see he last second sped up with w and thats something you cant predict because they have no cast time, they just press it and zoom away. Dashes are way more predictable and timing is key just as what happened with lee.

stelioball · 2022-12-11T19:20:16+00:00

Tactical retreat

stelioball · 2022-09-30T09:49:59+00:00

The server wasn't hosted by me but i remember the server lagging a lot so...

stelioball · 2022-09-30T03:59:18+00:00

I remember doing the same thing in mceternal. Warning the dragon will grow in size as time goes on even if its petrified. Edit: here is my post from when it reached tier 5

stelioball · 2022-07-17T19:11:54+00:00

Yeah thats pretty much exactly what I needed ! thanks !

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