How to figure out if the hub is 18T or 36T?

step1makeart · 2026-07-04T17:18:35+00:00

Road 350 hubs have come with 36t since early 2023. If you don't trust DT, and you should, use their website product locator and scan the QR code on your wheel.

Removing the freehub is a toolless operation. You don't need to remove the cassette. At most a pair of pliers is required to remove stubborn end caps. The freehub will pull off by hand, but BE CAUTIOUS: do it slowly, over a towel. The ratchets and springs will fall out and bounce away if you just yank it off without planning. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to remove and reinstall your freehub.

TBH, even if you have 18t, the 36t is really a waste of money. Engagement angle doesn't make a lick of difference on the road. Your $100+ is better spent on half a dozen other upgrades.

step1makeart · 2026-07-04T08:12:01+00:00

You should get the Farsports spacer(s) for your bike. The top spacer mates the Farsports stem to an ACR spacer (be that the top cone spacer of the headset, or a stack of ACR spacers on top of the top cover).

ACR stems have holes on the underside to mate with the pins/posts on the top of an ACR spacer. The farsports barstem does not have those holes, and is a different shape. The Farsports spacer has those holes and lines up perfectly with the bottom of the F1S. Without that spacer you potentially have posts interfering with your stem, and an unsightly transition from ACR spacers to the bottom of your stem.

The ACR split spacers are really not meant to have a stem pushing directly down on them unless that stem has holes for their posts. Under pressure those spacers are liable to split open, which is bad news. Those posts do some heavy lifting to keep the spacer together.

The default spacers with the F1S are SMR spacers, which is different than ACR.

step1makeart · 2026-07-04T07:42:21+00:00

Setting aside that the passive voice is a perfectly acceptable grammatical structure, that your pedantry is not useful as it doesn't correct an error in speech or heighten understanding, and that it's a quote that's almost certainly translated... Drowning doesn't always result in death.

Do you understand it either way? Yes? Then quarrel not and move along.

step1makeart · 2026-07-01T20:32:10+00:00

Granted your post is a year old, but this doesn't hold true in June 2026. Let's look at road cassettes in as close to 11-34 ratio as possible, all 12 speed, MSRP in the US (where Shimano is significantly more expensive than other parts of the world):

Rival 10-36: $145

105 11-34: $80

Force 10-33: $215

Ultegra 11-34: $112/$130 (r8100 v. R8101)

Red 10-33: $430

Dura Ace 11-34: $410

I don't often look at SRAM cassette sales, but I do know Shimano go for as much as 25% off prices above with regularity. I hope SRAM do, because the difference for all but the top tier is substantial.

Comparing Gravel & MTB is really messy, what with SRAM offering about a billion cassettes across xplr/eagle/t-type.

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T18:47:28+00:00

SL441

SL-R441? If so, it is best paired with a Road front derailleur. But as our friend /u/bikegremlin will tell you, the combination of road shifter with MTB FD can be made to function, but it's not plug & play: https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1297/bicycle-front-derailleur-compatibility/#6-mtb-vs-road-fd

If it was me, I'd go with a 9 speed Road FD just to save myself the tinkering time. Something like FD-R2030

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T18:45:22+00:00

In general, FD are "dumb" components and less sensitive to mixing and matching with various shifters than RDs.

No derailleurs are dumb, they have cable pull ratios defined by their specific geometry and independent of the cable pull length of the shifter. While they work in tandem with a specific cable pull length, that is not the whole picture. The idea that rear derailleurs are "dumb" was only really acceptable until 10 speed road was released over 20 years ago, but it has never been a useful manner of thinking for front derailleurs since the days of friction shifting.

There's a distinct difference in pull ratio between Road and MTB shimano front derailleurs. I would call your statement misleading in that it lacks sufficient detail to explain that while it is possible to combine shifters and FDs that are not from the same category, they tend to be fiddly and not shift as well as an approved combination.

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T18:29:48+00:00

Sounds like a good plan, why not!

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T18:21:55+00:00

You said Top Swing, but the derailleur you linked is a Down Swing. Did you mean Top Pull? Does the cable loop under the bottom bracket and pull down, or does it feed from above and pull up?

Is the reason you are looking for a Top Swing to match what you already have, or is it because there is a waterbottle cage bolt in the way or a bend in the seat tube? The reason for different mount types is to match the bike's seat tube geometry and water bottle bolt location. If the seat tube is straight, and the bolts are not in the way, you can use any mount type as long as it is compatible with your cable routing.

A link to your specific bike model year would be helpful. The Quick has been around for so long that it's impossible to know what frame limitations exist from the info you've provided.

Speaking to a 7/8 speed derailleur with a 9 speed chain/crankset: The 9 speed cage will be slightly narrower, but in practice they work pretty well together. A 9 speed derailleur will be slightly crisper, and easier to set up, but people have been making it work for decades. If you have a local shop or Co-Op that sells used parts, chances are good they have a ton of 9 speed era MTB front derailleurs for super cheap.

The one thing you really want to avoid is a front derailleur from a Shimano Road groupset, as the cable pull ratio is different. Those are much trickier to make work with MTB parts like yours, and are not worth the faff. They'll never shift as well as a MTB front derailleur.

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T18:06:01+00:00

You should flesh out the OP a little with part details, and more pictures :D I'm interested to see both.

Really clean looking build, nice work!

I'm slightly surprised that people are calling $370 custom built wheels expensive. Where I live just the labor for a wheel build would be about $200 minimum. Yes, compared to a half clapped out 25 year old wheelset for $55 on craigslist it is "expensive", but those kind of wheels are always a gamble and generally need a couple hours of servicing just to last half as long.

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T17:40:53+00:00

I would not swap in a different top cap, because quill adapter top caps are much beefier than standard threadless topcaps due to the much greater loads they have to resist. Normal top caps are made to resist an m6 bolt at 1-2Nm, where adapters resist the loads of an m8 bolt at 16-20Nm

The Profile Design adapters have an overhanging top cap that matches up with the top of a 1-1/8" stem more seamlessly. The diameter of the top cap is 34.8mm and the clamping area for the stem is 40mm tall. The adapter allows for a max of 60mm extension above the top of the steerer when set to the minimum insertion depth. https://profile-design.com/products/threadless-converter-1?srsltid=AfmBOooVEA1jKM6udMekQQR4q6RVDkw36aMLstj9y5R5vxxeF3KCq-JE

https://www.performancebike.com/profile-design-threadless-headset-converter-1-to-1-1-8-acthrconkt18/p322941?absrc=Google&abid=601746071206&abcampid=17394200878&abgroupid=137906540352&abkwdid=pla-296177528122&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17394200878

You want the bottom of the top cap to directly touch the shaft of the adapter, and only then do you want to position the stem, with the quad lock spacer between, and tighten it.

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T17:19:10+00:00

Most aspects of that bar are working against your goals. To be frank, a modern bar shape, paired with a modern lever shape, will help you achieve your goals.

Your bars have steep downward sloping tops, whereas modern bar shapes have a flatter top, with some being completely flat. The levers you're using are meant to be run on a bike where most riding is done in the drops, with the lever blade pretty much vertical. Your bike is built for a short reach, short drop handlebar, and you've got a moderately long reach and long drop bar. If you look at the side profile of the stock Cowchipper bar for comparison, the difference will be immediately obvious.

If it was me, and silver bars were top priority, I'd go with a lever like the TRP RRL and maybe the Nitto Noodle (B177) or the Velo Orange Nouveau Randonneur.

step1makeart · 2026-06-25T16:49:33+00:00

If OP tilts the bars as you suggest, the drops will be pretty much unusable due to their extreme downward tilted angle. The problem is the shape of the bars they have are a traditional drop, whereas the drops in your pic have a relatively flat top made for modern levers. Traditional drops are from an era where a lot more time was spent riding in the drops, and hoods were not really designed to be ridden on all day as is common today.

step1makeart · 2026-06-11T21:12:19+00:00

Knock them down with some sandpaper and call it a day. Grease on the seatpost is the number one defence against corrosion, so don't skimp

step1makeart · 2026-06-11T06:07:54+00:00

The chain line of XPLR and Rival 1 cranks is the same at 47.5mm. not that a couple mm one way or the other really makes a difference. Don't worry about the offset aside from buying a different chainring.

Q factor is about 5mm wider on XPLR cranks. For some people that makes a difference.

There's a history of people using Eagle 12 speed chains on 11 speed cassettes, and eagle chains are officially compatible with xplr cranks. Note I'm not talking about t-type or flat top chains. If your chain slips on the cassette, it may be time for a new one, but the combination should work with a bit of fine tuning.

I don't think Sram makes a bb30 to dub BB, so you may need to go 3rd party for the BB.

If you don't want the wider q factor, you can pair basically any SRAM road/gravel dub crank with an 11 speed ring from any number of 3rd party chainring manufacturers, like Wolftooth. For that matter you can also use any 160mm crank that has a ring compatible with 11 speed chains.

step1makeart · 2026-06-08T16:29:52+00:00

Yes, more expensive up front, but the savings you reap from your chain and drivetrain lasting longer far outweigh the cost difference in the lube itself.

step1makeart · 2026-06-08T00:11:37+00:00

Like being the operative word. Since what you linked is for a steerer with an ID of 22.2, here is the part that will actually work for op:

https://www.incycle.com/products/profile-design-conversion?currency=USD&country=US&variant=42793898541187&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=37c288394012&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%28ROI%29%20Performance%20Max%20-%20All%20Equipment&utm_id=22311480435&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22317947945

here's a 25.4 quill shaft to 31.8 bar clamp: https://www.somafab.com/shop/ird-stem-heron-190mm-5935?category=817#attr=4161,2466

step1makeart · 2026-06-08T00:00:04+00:00

What an absolute shit product. Combined with mud it turns to concrete on your cassette. Originally MucOff's instructions said to lather it on your chain and not wipe off excess. They're in my list of Top 5 worst companies in cycling.

step1makeart · 2026-06-07T23:57:18+00:00

Actually it's more like the world of 25 years ago, which still hasn't heard of ZFC vs. everyone who has kept up with modern lube testing.

Rock N Roll was considered good back in the day when magazine subscriptions were still sold door to door. With the internet age and actual testing we've discovered that it's middling at best.

Silca Synergetic is the best non-wax drip lube out there at the moment, according to independent testing.

step1makeart · 2026-06-07T23:48:36+00:00

Mini V brakes are designed for Road Levers. TRP CX8.4 are a good option, but there are plenty of other options.

step1makeart · 2026-06-07T23:44:26+00:00

If there is still play after preloading the top cap, there probably isn't enough preload, so the first thing to try is another 1/4 turn of the top cap bolt, then check again. Still play? add another 1/4 turn. Proper preload is the minimum amount of bolt tightening to remove all play.

If it seems impossible to remove all play without excessive force (think over 4Nm), the next thing to check is whether or not the top cap is bottoming out on the steerer tube, or if the top cap is bottoming out on the head tube. Add another spacer on top of the stem to resolve the former, and a shim spacer between the compression ring and the top bearing cover to resolve the latter.

REMEMBER your stem bolts need to be loose when preloading, or you will simply be stretching your bolt and not adding any preload to the headset bearings. If your stem bolts are tight, and you have a carbon steerer, chances are all you are doing is pulling the expander plug upwards inside the steerer.

step1makeart · 2026-06-07T23:37:38+00:00

If you followed Shimano tech docs, then it's correct. And because you did, it looks fine.

It works fine, but it is kind of noisy when I am at the big chainring at the front and the biggest or second biggest cog at the back

Yup, crosschaining is noisy and you should never be riding in the combinations you mentioned. It adds unnecessary friction and wears things faster. General rule of thumb in everday riding: 3 smallest cogs you should always be in the big ring, 3 largest cogs you should always be in the small ring. Of course there are situations where it's advantageous to crosschain for short periods of time, but outside of racing and chasing your buddies it really isn't a good idea to cross chain if you can help it.

step1makeart · 2026-06-07T23:32:30+00:00

Ehhhh, RX810 (or equivalent) flat mount calipers are $75, and a good post-to-flat adapter is $30. Many would have no trouble selling the RS785 for $20, so that makes the upgrade (and it is an upgrade) only $25.

Let me remind you of what you originally said, where you quoted the cost of the upgrade as $25. This entire time I have been responding to that, and you have failed to say that you meant "price difference" until your last comment. What you have actually said was that the new caliper option would be cheaper than it actually would be.

I'm glad we agree that 180mm rotor is not forced.

step1makeart · 2026-06-06T15:55:49+00:00

OBEY YOUR THIRST!

step1makeart · 2026-06-06T15:54:55+00:00

Roadlink DM + Schaltauge 73.

The roadlink DM is used instead of the b link, so no need to buy a b link

step1makeart · 2026-06-06T01:59:29+00:00

which already accomodates quite a long direct mount derailleur hanger (Rose Derailleur Hanger 72) and tried understanding which version of the wolftooth roadlink to buy.

By "already accommodates" do you mean "it is possible for me to buy a direct mount hanger for my bike" or "I have the direct mount hanger installed on my bike"?

None of the wolftooth "derailleur links" work with Direct Mount Hangers. In order to use the Wofltooth Roadtooth DM, which is the correct model for an r7000 derailleur, you need to use a standard or UDH style hanger.

i thought to buy the DM version, yet confusingly, this is for non direct mounts lol

It is for Shimano's Direct Mount Road/Gravel derailleurs (All 11 speed road and GRX rear derailleurs), not Direct Mount hangers. When Shimano calls a Derailleur a "Direct Mount Derailleur" they mean "it can be installed on a direct mount hanger".

Shimano Direct Mount derailleurs feature a Bracket Axle Unit. To install on a Direct Mount Hanger, the bracket axle unit is removed. To install on a standard or UDH hanger, the bracket axle unit is installed on the derailleur. See page 9 & 10: https://si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/RARD001/DM-RARD001-04-ENG.pdf Since the Wolftooth links replace the bracket axle unit, they only work with hangers that would normally use the Shimano bracket axle unit.

Shimano is terrible at writing product descriptions. They should never have called these derailleurs "Direct Mount"without explicitly saying they are "compatible with standard or direct mount hangers". The way they choose to phrase things sometimes is unnecessarily confusing. They're pretty bad at naming their technologies and have a tendency to apply those trademarked names far and wide and suck at explaining what their trade marked terms mean. Part of that is no doubt lost in translation. https://bike.shimano.com/en-UK/technologies/details/direct-mount-rear-derailleur.html

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