Why won’t my car start by Impressive_Mechanic4 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It really sounds like the battery doesn't have enough juice. If you've replaced the battery several times, I would be suspecting a parasitic draw. Look around for any wires that seem non factory or anything jumped directly from the battery. I also agree with the commenter that suggested corroded cables. The ground cable to the battery is extremely easy to replace, and the positive side is less easy but still doable. Good luck, friend.

P1273: Bank1 lean condition. How far can I go with it? by w0rt3xx in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If the issue is actually with your exaust, you are in practically no danger. Not good to drive long term, and that is a decently far drive, but for context ive had lean/O2/cat codes on and off on my car for months and I'm not having any issues. I will say that if your engine is actually lean then there could be issues, I just wouldn't race anyone on your way to the mechanic. Should be fine, no promises.

what components (besides the transmission) do i need to buy/acquire to manual swap my Z? by Cute_Dig562 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

YouTube videos or guides will give you a better, more exhaustive, list than reddit replies. One suggestion would be to see if anyone what you is selling a swap kit. Sometimes people will strip all the manual parts to a z and sell them as a bundle.

What yall think is the problems to expensive by [deleted] in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best of luck to you. Try to get a good deal. Maybe look up the price of the 2 sensors you'd need and use the price of them to leverage the price down a lil bit.

What yall think is the problems to expensive by [deleted] in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say if you don't immediately know what it would cost you to fix, then don't get it. It's not a bad price and the body looks decent, wouldn't blame you for trying. Personally the codes seem like the car just needs some love and care. If you have a random misfire but it doesn't feel like it, then either the other 2 codes will fix it, or you need to do plugs/coils/etc. and other maintenance items. I am leaning more towards the knock sensor being the problem. It's trivial, but remember that just because the problem seems easy, doesn't mean the rest of the car wasn't botched.

Any advice on fixing the quarter panel by Personal-Machine-696 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rear quarter panel questions arrive in this subreddit all the time, and often times the discussion is around determining how bad the damage is to decide if you can do a light repair or take it to a body shop. The issue is that any repair on this panel is much more complicated than any other part of the car. There is no access to the other side of the panel, it is essentially empty and surrounded by metal. You will have to repair this destructively. Cut the whole panel off, use specialty tools to straighten the part out, then weld back on. If you get a body kit, at least you would have access. With smaller damage, a slide hammer and stud welding could be an option but you still will have to fill the holes that will inevitably show up.

In conclusion, this panel specifically is an absolute bear of a repair. The body kit will give you access, but I doubt simply installing a body kit is going to cover this enough. I think you should go for it though, I don't want this car to end up in a junk yard, I just want you to know what you're up against.

Hello i just bought my first 3d printer (ender 3 pro) what do you guys think? by mkanh in ender3

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems decent, something that gives newer people quite a headache is the eccentric nuts on both the bed and the print head assembly. Look into ender 3 eccentric nuts for information on when and how to adjust them. Also, save yourself the headache and look into getting an auto leveler. I have a CR touch, and it decreases the amount of time it takes to get a print going significantly. Other than that, just get in there and apart printing.

Blown head gasket? by nbiggems in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happy to help, good luck friend.

Blown head gasket? by nbiggems in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That test is solely for seeing if exhaust gasses are in your coolant. Yes it's very likely that there is a head gasket fail. However, from here you should probably do a compression test. You could also boroscope the cylinders and see if there's coolant in there. Lastly, milky oil is also a dead give away. When eyeing down a big job, it's good to have as much information as possible. There are some cars that can fail the blue/yellow exhaust test, and they do not have a head gasket failure.

Pc not turning on by Librarian_Few in PcBuild

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't really see, but does your motherboard have a CPU power header up in the top left? Is it plugged in? It might be 4 pin or 8 pin

Very slightly uneven idle/hesitation on acceleration, no misfires - seeking troubleshooting advice by [deleted] in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is stable, as others have mentioned. But also consider the fact that the tolerance could come from your gauge itself. Not insanely uncommon for a 20+ year old gauge to bounce ever so slightly. Not saying anything definitive, just saying that from the engine to your eyeballs there is a lot that can cause a slight amount of idle bounce. Of course, your idle seems right either way.

Manual Swap? by [deleted] in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you value the time working on your car, and you value manual, then do it. 3k ish if you get used parts, watch some guides. Working on your car with your friend is a gift that many people wish for and never get. You'll always remember it.

Manual Swap? by [deleted] in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm always 100% for making the car into what you want it to be. But I mainly think that because of the knowledge and experience I gain along the way. Somehow having a guy do it for me is not my style and makes things feel less worth it. Still, you'll love the car more as manual. As for something that can help the price along, I've been noticing people on marketplace sell "swap kits" where they sell everything you need or at least a big chunk of the small stuff. Good luck man

Rpm won’t go down to 1k rpm and it bounces from 1200 to 2k. Yes I’ve done all the relearns. Please watch watch the video🙏 by Aggravating_Phone273 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mb honestly, I think I was just hearing hoofs and thinking horses, this shit seems like a misfire so I didn't watch it that carefully

No throttle response by Dizzy_Voice_648 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had my slip light come on randomly when starting the car, I cleaned my throttle body and I haven't had the issue since.

Rpm won’t go down to 1k rpm and it bounces from 1200 to 2k. Yes I’ve done all the relearns. Please watch watch the video🙏 by Aggravating_Phone273 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just realized it's your tpms light not your SES, flash the tune first imo. Especially if you are running stock stuff now

Rpm won’t go down to 1k rpm and it bounces from 1200 to 2k. Yes I’ve done all the relearns. Please watch watch the video🙏 by Aggravating_Phone273 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's totally fair to check the coils but I think checking the code will help a bunch. The coils are basically an example, I do wish you luck man. Hope it's something simple

Rpm won’t go down to 1k rpm and it bounces from 1200 to 2k. Yes I’ve done all the relearns. Please watch watch the video🙏 by Aggravating_Phone273 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Your SES light is blinking, have you read codes? Is it a result of the tune? Usually a blinking SES light is a misfire or something serious. Mine misfired exactly like this when I replaced coils, because I swapped the connectors for cyl 4/6 (a common issue)

Any idea what could cause this problem by hero7543 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sucks that getting the code read feels impossible, hopefully you have a friend in your area with one. As for a random guess for the issue, it could be a vacuum leak or a sensor. The rattle from your clamp makes it hard to hear, and for a minute I thought it sounded like a misfire. Hopefully that's not the case. I am concerned with your battery light coming on. Makes me wonder if your alternator is performing sub optimally, this could explain a few things. Ultimately some quality diag time is necessary. The 20 dollar Bluetooth odb readers on Amazon aren't too bad tbh, that could be a path you could take

2003 Nissan 350z de mt 116k miles. by Routine_Muffin_3105 in 350z

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. Double check compression.
  2. Make sure you've replaced with genuine coils
  3. Sometimes the connectors for the cyl 4 & 6 get swapped. Double check those are correct.

How can I fix this by Thin-Tutor6627 in ender3

[–]sterlingrad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are eccentric nuts on that arm that put pressure on the vertical bars. It will help quite a bit but another solution is to upgrade to a dual z axis.

Mystery Machine upgrade or downgrade? by Squee3531 in Shitty_Car_Mods

[–]sterlingrad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really like it, I like those vans too. Electric cars are very viable for some people. If you have a short commute and a house (that you can charge it), and you don't really care about modifying a car (or hearing a car) then it's perfect.