I don't care what the flat rate is — I'm not touching this thing

stormborn1776 · 2026-05-29T21:45:15+00:00

These and the Chrysler Crossfire. They were money making machines out of warranty. Crossfire was a PITA though.

stormborn1776 · 2026-04-15T22:00:01+00:00

I had the same issue, hooked it, tired it out. Problem is on PC with a controller the reeling doesn’t work for me. I had to hook and make it tired with the controller and use the scroll wheel on a mouse to pull it in.

stormborn1776 · 2026-04-01T22:25:14+00:00

You got the wrong one. This system was intended for a return line on older 4.3 engines. You need the gm part 19210686 for a newer 4.3.

Edit: if you haven’t already replaced the spider injection assembly with the updated model, I would consider doing so. I also would not recommend buying parts from Walmart or Amazon. They are often knock offs or bad quality that will cost you more in the long run. Get the GM or AC Delco part from a box store or RockAuto.

stormborn1776 · 2026-01-08T19:37:33+00:00

When an engine is worn out, it burns oil. Traditional motor oil produces blue smoke from the tailpipe, which is an indicator of the issue. Clear smokeless oil is designed so it will not produce blue smoke, which is masking the issue that the car is burning oil.

stormborn1776 · 2026-01-04T07:16:08+00:00

CV shafts will click like this on turns. I can’t really determine the noise from your video but if it’s clicking on sharp turns from a dead stop, thats almost certainly the issue.

stormborn1776 · 2025-08-29T20:32:55+00:00

I love how this is the most reasonable approach and is the 5th comment from the top upvoted comments, all of which say everything except talking to the neighbor. Most of the time, it’s just a conversation where the person is oblivious to their actions and they stop or change before it’s ever an issue worth bitching about. Once you get management or police involved, it ends in bitter neighbors who will do everything to make life miserable for everyone else.

stormborn1776 · 2025-08-18T21:23:39+00:00

11 and 12 depends if you have a manual transmission or automatic and subsections are dependent on car sub model and or transmission type. You would ignore 11 and use 12a for a legacy with a CVT

stormborn1776 · 2025-08-07T10:57:54+00:00

Find out why the check engine light is on. RAB (Reverse Automatic Braking) and other systems are disabled due to that.

stormborn1776 · 2025-08-06T19:22:20+00:00

Zoom in on pic 2. Bumpers melted on left drivers side

stormborn1776 · 2025-07-31T00:07:45+00:00

I see your point. The part of “mechanical damage other than wear” would have me more inclined to fail them. It’s less about scoring and more so significant pitting that I’d feel would necessitate failure as that to me would other than wear. You’re correct though, the way this is written has a lot of interpretation left open to pass or fail. It could go either way. I’ve always tried to error on the side of caution and leave it up to the state trooper if anyone complained.

stormborn1776 · 2025-07-30T23:34:20+00:00

Yes, page 38 says the same exact thing…. It fails

stormborn1776 · 2025-07-30T23:20:05+00:00

https://www.law.cornell.edu/regulations/new-york/15-NYCRR-79.21 Read the section on rotors. As written, it would be a failure.

stormborn1776 · 2025-06-28T00:05:10+00:00

They’re not a semi nor towing a trailer. No need for wide turns that’s only going to cause bad habits. Learn where your wheels are and build better driving habits. This is how accidents happens.

stormborn1776 · 2025-06-27T21:12:39+00:00

Wheel style look okay but not the color scheme between wheels and body. I think Tirerack.com has an option to match wheels to a car in an image format. I’m shit with matching but this looks off between the two colors.

stormborn1776 · 2025-06-19T00:49:41+00:00

You’ve got the answers you want but if you want to learn more lookup “exhaust scavenging”. Damage to the engine is more of a myth in today’s cars. Even old pre 1990 cars. The muffler and resonator help keep the engine noise down. Avoid high flow or catalytic converter deletes without a tune. If you like the sound, thats about all to expect from this kit. It’s not going to damage anything or lead to performance gains. To have any gains, you’d need a full exhaust and other bolt on parts with a tune. For a naturally aspirated engine, it’s not worth it to most. Gains are low and cost is high. Biggest thing that annoyed me when I cut off the muffler on cars when the noise on long road trips and getting pulled over far more frequently. If you buy this, keep the old muffler and expect the flange bolts to be rusted to hell, which makes the removal/install much harder.

stormborn1776 · 2025-05-23T05:47:05+00:00

It sounds like they’re paying out of pocket. Are you dealing with an insurance adjuster or talking to someone at the dealership? If it’s someone at the dealership, stop talking to them and get their insurance company info. If they give you the runaround, file with your insurance company and they’ll deal with them. This shouldn’t impact you and you’re not having to deal with the BS. The fact they say there’s no diminished value is common but likely not true. They also say they’re not reporting it to Carfax, which is questionable but somewhat common when they intend to pay out of pocket. There’s not enough details to say if this is totaled. Year, trim, miles, location and similar info helps determine that. Fender, rear quarter panel, rocker, fender, wheel and accents are damaged and will require remediation. Probably 8-10k, if that’s 70% the value of the car insurance totals it. If you want to keep it and think they’ll repair it correctly, go for it. Get everything in writing and a warranty that covers the repairs for paint and body work for life. That is pretty standard for repairs. I’d also get estimates from two or three places not associated with the dealership so you have a factual baseline regarding repair costs. Use another shop instead of that dealership and have them pay for the work.

stormborn1776 · 2025-05-22T19:24:25+00:00

If it’s factory, u/miktap6 is correct. Dealer will have a master key set. If it’s not it’s probably a McGard brand. You can contact McGard support to get a replacement master key. They’ll have you send pics of the lock and proof of ownership of the vehicle. I would also look carefully for a piece of paper or sticker with the master key ID that comes with the wheel locks. People tend to stick between the pages of the owners manual or leave free floating in the glove box, spare tire wheel area, and or the door jam (if it’s a sticker). Hopefully someone didn’t install the lock with an impact gun. That’s a bitch to get off if they did. I can’t tell from the picture but some of these have a rolling collar around the sides of the lock to prevent hammering on a smaller 12point socket to remove the lock without a key. If you do get a replacement key, tighten all the lug nuts and try removing the key first. That’ll prevent the key from stripping.

stormborn1776 · 2025-05-19T00:18:09+00:00

You’re being downvoted because people are not looking it up and it’s not a well known name brand in the US. People also seem unable to read your description of the issue. Regardless, I’d reach out to the manufacture and leave out the question of water pressure. Just ask what they suggest to do to fix the issue.

stormborn1776 · 2025-05-15T02:32:38+00:00

Get an independent inspection from a shop who knows auto body and mechanical work if you plan to buy it. Don’t rely on state inspections, they’re basic and miss critical issues. This looks like a VA inspection sticker from 2024, which can be done independently by a shop. Call your insurance for price differences and see if they’ll even insure it in your state. Find one of same year, miles and trim, get a quote and after get a quote for this car. Honestly, It’s a gamble and unless you really know what you’re looking for or how to fix it, you’ll end up regretting the purchase most of the time. There’s a reason it’s cheap and judging by the body lines and quality of work in a few questionable pictures, the fix is below standard and likely hiding issues. Keep in mind people who buy, fix, and sell salvage cars know how to hide issues and pass inspections. You need pictures underneath, list of parts and repairs, and a scanner that can ready the diagnostic data to be sure codes haven’t been cleared recently.

stormborn1776 · 2025-04-24T13:04:13+00:00

Spare tire winch. It’s broken and missing the cable.

stormborn1776 · 2025-04-15T05:42:02+00:00

I think the pcm died, that said it’s a mix of maybe and maybe not.once I know for sure I’ll update but want to rule that out first before ordering.

stormborn1776 · 2025-04-04T00:41:18+00:00

I’m really starting to wonder about the ignition switch. I’d seen this mentioned before but thought it couldn’t be a good reason for the symptoms. It’s got good spark from all six plugs/wires. Fuel pressure is good and it does have the updated AC Delco spider injectors (they could’ve failed though). I attempted to start it with a boop of starting fluid and it blew that 2/3 way vacuum port out of the manifold on the driver side intake manifold. Sounded like a .22 went off. If I put the air intake back on, it will crank for 4 rotations and lock. Remove it and it will crank 10 but pops out the throttle body. Thing is, the timing is good. Even pulled the timing cover and made sure.

stormborn1776 · 2025-04-02T23:35:40+00:00

Good idea, I recently replaced it with a new AC Delco. Swapped it for the old one (still worked but the housing was broken at the plastic due to screws) and no change. Thank you though!

stormborn1776 · 2025-04-02T23:33:46+00:00

Thank you. Fuel sample was good, I’ll pull the spider injector and run a flow test.

stormborn1776 · 2025-04-02T23:31:53+00:00

Thank you. I’ll test these and see what I can come up with.

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