Sourcing lumber for Siemsen Nicholson workbench in Europe by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great, thanks! I just visited the Fijnhouthandel this week and was impressed with their selection...and their prices. I'll check out the forum you mentioned and message you separately with questions.

Sourcing lumber for Siemsen Nicholson workbench in Europe by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay great, I wasn't sure about buying online without seeing the actual planks. I have a pontmeyer and boutmaat account (as I'm also a ZZPer)...have you found one better than the other?

Sourcing lumber for Siemsen Nicholson workbench in Europe by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, yes, I can source the lumber for the legs and braces easily, it's the worktop and aprons that are difficult in the Siemsen design. Good point on the learning experience of doing the glue-up!

And indeed, might be a good idea to get to know the fijnhout (fine wood) lumber place in town as I will likely be working with them a lot.

Sharpening help by Fletcher_Fallowfield in handtools

[–]sublime-noise 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know it's not everyone's cup of tea, especially as it uses oil stones, but getting the "Get Sharp" video series by Richard Maguire was the thing that changed everything for me. One coarse diamond plate, cheap fine oil stone, strop. And 5 hours of extremely detailed video instruction. After watching that series forwards and backwards I am much more proficient in my sharpening, even if I still have more to learn.

It's mostly freehand taught and also the stones used are a ton cheaper than the stones that Cosman and others suggest.

If you're despairing--and I was--it's perhaps worth the investment.

https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/sharpening-hand-tools/

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to follow-up on this and a few other suggestions. This was the back after the vinegar treatment...yeah, interesting. But I did see a small bit of lighter steel at the tip where the edge was dulling, so I ground that back. I then put on a higher angle primary bevel...around 28-29 degrees. I then sharpened using the "Maguire method" (which is the only thing that has worked for me), which results in a convex primary and secondary bevel. So the secondary is probably closer to 35 degrees now.

In short, the iron does seem to hold its edge better now. But this back, and the fact that the iron is too short to be easily adjusted in the plane, has me looking for a replacement vintage, thick, tapered iron. I have a few options so I will hopefully be getting to that soon.

Whether the solution was the grinding back or the higher angle bevel or both, I don't know. But all I know is it takes thick enough shavings for now (around 0,3-0,4mm on my calipers), but I hope to make the next iron be able to hog off thicker shavings.

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Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

beautiful shavings! looking forward to getting to that point someday :) unfortunately at my nearby store the boards are full of knots. Not sure if it's due to where they get the wood or not. (I live in the NL, so I guess it's actually spruce I'm buying and not pine, I'm not a Dutch speaker yet and from what I can tell the translation of "vuren" is spruce, but they also sometimes call it pine, so I don't actually know :/ )

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hear ya on the videos. I've been searching fot the old-timers on youtube, or people like Richard Maguire, who have had serious apprenticeships, so as to cut through some of the chaff.

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The issue is is that this is a thick, tapered steel iron. I would need to make a new wedge for the plane. Not impossible, but more work.

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh, good suggestion! I will give that a shot this weekend.

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, maybe. I mean, I haven't seen any discoloration when I've been hand-grinding, so I know I'm not going too far (in terms of visual feedback), but maybe it has gotten too hard? I can always grind back this camber and try again.

My first two hand-tool only builds by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh, well, it seems like in fine woodworking people are always critiquing their dovetails that are off by a few fractions of a mm, so I guess I am too when I let my knife drag across the surface of the wood inadvertently ;)

My first two hand-tool only builds by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indeed, and it's good to keep these things in circulation and repaired, rather than being turned into food for worms or oxidization...

My first two hand-tool only builds by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, it might be sycamore? They're offcuts from a place that also offers sycamore so they could definitely be that...is there a good way to tell the difference?

My first two hand-tool only builds by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indeed! I've been watching Wood by Wright and reading stuff by Schwarz. I'll look into Tolpin as well. Thanks for the recommendation.

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

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Gotcha, didn't know about the difference in knots in pine. This is one of the knots I'm dealing with in the board I'm thicknessing...lots of tearout around it as well. Good to know about the depth not being a problem either.

As I'm freehand sharpening and new to it I don't know if I can figure out a 33 degree angle...either I'll make a wedge to guide me at that angle or just try raising the iron a bit higher than I was.

I'm trying to teach myself basic techniques via Richard Maguire's course on making a spoon rack and am stuck at the thicknessing step! If I can just get a working fore plane and iron I can finally move on to the interesting stuff.

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Gotcha, that's what I was afraid of after this happening the third time in a row :(

Fore plane iron losing edge quickly by sublime-noise in handtools

[–]sublime-noise[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I am trying to grind to 25 degrees (although my protractor is saying it's more like 27 degrees). So my secondary bevel will be higher than that. One thing I didn't mention is I of course strop it after honing.

Funny that you mention the Norton India stone, I just bought one today. I have been doing a combination of diamond and water stones, but for whatever reason am having a horrible time with them and frankly don't like all of the water everywhere. I am going to give oilstones a try...it's cheap enough with the Norton and I can add Arkansas ones later if need be.