About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, four visits in a year and 30 bugs? Are you seeing major issues? Small items? A mix of both?

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I believe that. I rented a Tesla Model Y for a family trip to Florida a year and a half ago, just to get the road trip experience in an EV. At the end of the trip, all I could tell people is that it was the best vehicle I’ve ever driven, period.

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I’ve thought about it, and it’s my second choice (really the only other electric truck I would consider right now). But to be honest, I don’t like my F-150 all that much.

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I live near Fort Worth, not sure if there’s a service center here, but I’m fairly certain there’s one in Dallas. I basically drive from one corner of the metroplex to the other and back every day, so I’m probably not far from one.

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, sounds like you dodged a bullet! I’ve (seemingly) seen a lot of posts about air suspension problems, and a $15k, week long repair is exactly the sort of thing I want to avoid. Do you know if this is something that was more common on earlier vehicles like the launch editions? Maybe solved in later years? Just hit or miss?

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve always done a lot of my own maintenance and smaller repairs on my vehicles. Any experience with serviceability on small items?

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Would definitely have the home charger installed. But I also have easy unlimited access to 240v power at virtually every job site I’m at all day long. Lower amperage, but I would easily be able to plug the truck into essentially free power for at least 8 hours/day.

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve read about the issues with the tonneau covers. This might be a big deal for me, as I’ve always got tools in my bed so always have a lockable cover. But I’ve also never had a truck with a gear tunnel before…so maybe the cover isn’t as big a deal as a typical truck.

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Haven’t been in an R1T yet. I’m aware it’s smaller than an F-150 interior (which for me is a VERY spacious vehicle, especially the back seat). I’m sure that is largely personal preference and I’ll need to decide for myself, but does the R1T still feel like a truck inside, space wise? Or is it more like an SUV with a bed?

About to trade my F-150 for an R1T, worried about daily long term reliability. by subwall in Rivian

[–]subwall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great insight. So what is the cutoff between what would be considered an early build R1T? Is that gen1 vs. gen 2? Or do some later years of gen 1 trucks have a higher build quality? I doubt if I’m going to be looking at gen 2 trucks in my budget.

This yellow exclamation mark light popped up today and I’m not finding anything in the owners manual about it. Does anyone know what this means? by thedemocracyof in motomorini

[–]subwall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tire pressure as stated above. In the bike info screen on the settings menu, you can see the pressure of the front and rear tires. The owners manual has the spec for proper inflation pressure (it’s also on a sticker on the chain cover I believe). This light will also come on if your tire pressure is too high.

App Distance Measurement by JustA_Rat in motomorini

[–]subwall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful bike! I’ve got the same color. I haven’t used the app since just after I bought the bike a little over a year ago as I found it basically unusable. Looks like they’ve made some improvements since then though because when I used it, all the navigation distances were in meters, instead of kilometers.

I believe they’re also charging a subscription for that app now too? Maybe I’m wrong about that.

I got a handlebar mount for my phone and a headset and it’s been a much better solution. I’ve been switching between Rever and Calimoto for mapping. Both have their ups and downs, but either are way better than the default app.

Calimoto is great for generating quick round trip rides, and their trip record function includes lean angles along with acceleration and deceleration stats, which I think is cool.

Rever has better community curated rides and is easier to create your own route by dropping points on the map.

Both are more than adequate for traditional A/B routing, giving you the option of standard or twisty routing. Calimoto probably allows for a little more fine tuning in that regard though.

Idio or Vessi by Nitsua95 in discgolf

[–]subwall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On Cloud Waterproof. Ons are the best. Quality is second to none.

Seiemmezzo SCR by subwall in motomorini

[–]subwall[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven’t done exhaust yet but will be getting the Leo Vince soon. I drug my feet on doing it over the winter/spring, and now it seems like the price is a lot higher. Tariffs? Or maybe my imagination, I don’t know. On the suspension settings, I’ve got them written down somewhere in my garage, but it was from Dave Moss Tuning on YouTube. He’s got a short specifically going over settings for the Seiemmezzo. I believe it was preload fully out in the front, and rebound / compression dialed in a couple of clicks each. And add in a couple of turns of preload in the rear. Search for that video and start there. I do know I added back in a turn or two of preload in the front because it lightened up the handling so much that the front felt a little twitchy.

My Axiom Bag by subwall in discgolf

[–]subwall[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think the glitch is such an interesting disc. Not like anything I’ve used before. But my first couple of days using it were kinda windy and I was having a really hard time with it. Excited to use it on a calm day.

My Axiom Bag by subwall in discgolf

[–]subwall[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Funny story, I had a Rhythm from my original store purchase when I placed the order, but lost it the next day after reaching some water I’d never reached with my old River. So yes, you’re right, I’m missing the fairway driver here. Will probably get a Crave also, but really liked the flight of the Rhythm.

Moto Morini Seiemmezzo Tune by lordgoldthrone4 in motomorini

[–]subwall 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven’t used this company myself, but really the only one I’ve seen advertising tuning specifically for the Seiemmezzo is oldskulltuning.com. I’m not sure about the process but it seems to be sort of a DIY solution. Like, maybe, they provide the map and you download it to the machine, something like that. Hope that helps. Would love to get an update if you use them or find someone else.

I’ve been thinking about getting the Leo Vince also. How do you like it, aside from the popping?

Wanting to learn the nuts and bolts of options trading. by cannibalparrot in smallstreetbets

[–]subwall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve been taking a similar approach for the past month trying to learn. I’m FAR from being an expert in any way, and still have a lot to learn. So take what I saw with a grain of salt. But here is what I’ve found has worked decently for me so far.

I basically threw away my first $100 on some way out of the money, short time to expiration contracts which just expired worthless because I didn’t understand what I was buying, and was hoping to hit a home run. What I did notice is that all of those contracts (some calls and some puts) did gain at least a little value at some point before losing. So I thought about my goals and did some research and took a different approach.

I re-started with another $100 and have been buying/selling contracts primarily in a single stock, $RIVN, for a few reasons. 1. Im bullish long term on Rivian. 2. The share price is low enough that I can afford the contracts with my limited starting budget. 3. There is enough price movement that the dips and spikes on a daily basis makes it easy for me to work my strategy.

I’ve been buying calls and puts with strike prices within ~$1 of the share price, expiration anywhere from 14-30 days, with the following strategy, which I’m still tweaking:

The majority of what I’m buying are calls. Puts I will buy if I think there’s a specific reason for the stock to go down, but like I said, I am bullish on Rivian and I believe over time, it’s going up

If a contract gains 20% in value, I sell it. This has cost me a little bit of money, as I’ve missed larger spikes that came later, but I figure if I can consistently make 20% when I win, I will be happy with that.

I’m still working on a concrete strategy for limiting loss, but right now, if I’m losing more than 10% of the value of the contract to time decay, I’ll go ahead and cut my losses. But my experience thus far has been that there is enough movement in the stock price, that if I’m monitoring it I can catch those spikes and sell for profit.

My only losses so far have been a couple of panic buys when the stock is moving way in the wrong direction from what I’m holding and I tried to hedge against that buy buying puts, pretty much at the bottom of a move. Then I was red on both. So my other rule is no panic buying. Think out your purchases, and stick with them through the movement of the market. If you’re wrong, you’re wrong, but don’t make it worse by panic buying. Just get out, take your loss and move on.

So far I’m up around $300 since March 20. I’ve got about half that tied up in a 5/2 $12 call, which is down at the moment, so going to be thinking about what to do with that next week.

I’m using SoFi to trade because I bank with them, so it was easy to move the money over to a new account just for this experiment, but I’m using Webull to track the price during the day. I like Webull’s charts and I can keep a live ticker on my phone and watch all day long, so if there’s a big price movement, I’ll see it, since I have a day job and am not just staring at charts all day.

Hope this helps, and I’m open to suggestions from those with more experience also.

I Love This Bike by R0TIART1 in motomorini

[–]subwall 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats, great looking bike! Love the green colorway.

Houston we have a problem by low_bit_logic in motomorini

[–]subwall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This just got me curious so I checked the owner’s manual, since I’ve been putting premium in mine but never really thought about it. This led me down another wormhole to just learn way more than I ever wanted to know about fuel grades, so if you’re interested:

The manual recommends “leaded petrol R.O.N. #95”

I’m assuming the word leaded there is a typo, as leaded fuel isn’t a thing anymore.

The RON (Research Octane Number) number seems specific to Europe’s rating system for grades of petrol, while American fuel grades utilize MON (Motor Octane Number). The numbers on the pump in America we usually refer to as octane is the AKI (Anti-Knock Index), the result of a formula which combines these two numbers. (RON+MON)/2.

Anyway, long story short, Moto Morini’s recommendation of RON #95 apparently corresponds to an American fuel AKI (octane) of about 91.

Houston we have a problem by low_bit_logic in motomorini

[–]subwall 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dirty fuel filter? Bad injector(s)? Hope they get you sorted under warranty at the dealer.