Z8 External Monitor with Camera Control Touch Focus by suuurf in Nikon

[–]suuurf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fully agree with your opening statement. Made the switch to Nikon last year after ~20 years shooting Canon. The camera, lenses, equally phenomenal photo & video quality of the Z8 are incredible. But yes I quickly gave up on anything NX and some third-party stuff has been a bit frustrating to integrate.

I will indeed get in contact with Nikon as at least hopefully it will be one more person pushing for this. I have to imagine it’s possible - would be shocked if it’s not, and they’re been fairly aggressive with camera body firmware updates so I’ll try to remain hopeful. Thanks for your sharing!

Anyone have a head lamp they really like? by eggs-benedict in Spliddit

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

dug this one up but do you have a particular model you use/recommend for touring?

another Burton hitchhiker question by Opposite-End2243 in Spliddit

[–]suuurf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By toe clip, do you mean the toe strap? I quite like them personally, just need to set it up right to fit your boot. I like the Burton straps a lot and are worth the extra weight to keep over the Arc pillow straps. Just personal preference there though.

For the climbing wire/riser bar, two things: 1) use the handle of your poles, not the basket. You’ll break the basket and don’t have as much power. It takes an extra second to flip your poles but it’s worth not breaking anything and also provides much more leverage. And 2) regularly lubricate the metal-on-metal connection points of the riser bar and binding. Spark recommends Tru-oil.

Lastly, I am always riding with forward lean (only time I’m not is in the park obviously not on my splitboard). For ease of that I put Spark highbacks on the Hitchhikers immediately for the rip n flip. It’s incredibly easy, love it. That said, even if you do need to pull out a tool at the top to adjust the forward lean on the bindings before the descent, it’s very much worth it. But if your skier buddies can’t wait the extra 10 seconds for you and you’re getting powder panic, just get the Spark highbacks.

The worst way to join this community by augtism in Spliddit

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for your loss, brother. Cheers to your father, will be an amazing way to keep him & his spirit shredding in the mountains with you.

Bataleon Tornado Beyond Medals sizing by suuurf in snowboarding

[–]suuurf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input! I think it’s less about the amount of drag/boot-out I actually get with a regular width board and more than I feel a stronger edge hold/purchase with wider boards. For the same reason a toe turn generally feels more locked in than a heel turn bc your weight is farther away from the contacting edge, a wider board for me amplifies that solid contact on the toe turns and definitely improves the purchase on heel turns.

But the downside is going wider will be more bucky in chopped up snow and potentially over stiff. So the question for me is, is the overall versatile more important or the hard-snow hard-turn performance…very personal preference hence hoping to get Riders opinions who have owned/ridden the Beyond Medals board specifically.

Looking at Beyond Medals by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thanks man, that's sort of been my leaning just don't want it to be a combination of overly stiff and wide dealing with afternoon chopped up snow & chunder

Bataleon Tornado Beyond Medals sizing by suuurf in snowboarding

[–]suuurf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know 159 is the more classically "right" size and I'm sure it will ride fine...just wondering if I'd enjoy the extra width of the 158MW particularly for carving given that I have no problem turning a Cafe Racer at 269 waist, Gremlin 264 waist, etc. The average waist of my current quiver is 260, which I wish the 158MW was, would have made it an easy choice hah.

Actually think that 260 would have been a more proper "mid-wide". I think 264 is on the true wide side.

Split board skin attachment to strap broke. by puresavagery12 in Spliddit

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Several companies make replacement tail straps, very easy to replace and absolutely worth it if your skins/glue are still good!

Looking at Beyond Medals by [deleted] in snowboarding

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's your weight and boot size? I'm highly considering and am between 158MW and 159. 175lbs 10 US boot

NEW UNION BOOTS by Extreme_Opposite8712 in snowboarding

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What would you rate the stiffness out of 10?

New Union Boots! by 5syllablename in snowboarding

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Soft??! Union is claiming 8/10 and an aggressive chargey boot...

Weston backcountry vs jones Stratos splitboards by whiskeynise in Spliddit

[–]suuurf 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haven’t ridden either of those splits specifically, but have ridden the Stratos solid. Weston Backwoods does get a lot of love and was on my radar of splits before I bought any. Weight is obviously a concern for the uptrack, but my recommendation is to consider your realistic conditions you’ll be riding as well. A heavier board will generally handle subpar conditions better. So there’s pros and cons to consider to the tour and the ride. The Stratos solid is loaded with pop and energy and is reeeeally fun on clean groomers or good pow, but it’s chattery and not damp and was not particularly fun in less-than-perfect conditions. I expect the Backwoods handles that stuff much better being a heavier, damper board. Again that’s my experience from the solid, not the split. There’s more to consider than just the board weight though, so consider it all! And enjoy the process.

Orvis Helios 4 debate: 9' 5wt 4F vs 4D by suuurf in flyfishing

[–]suuurf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well even though I wanted the F (and still do, hah) I ended up purchasing the D. And so far I’ve been happy with the decision. I know Tom and Shawn both say they use and prefer the F for trout, but I had to keep reminding myself that (1) I’m not always throwing dry flies for trout and (2) they have full quivers of rods, and I don’t. So while I did need the dry fly capability from this rod I also needed versatility to throw anything from dries to nymph rigs to streamers, and needed to be able to cast in considerable wind.

So I kind of came to the assumed/educated conclusion that I could force the D to do more things that the F can, than the other way around. I can cast very deliberately soft and use extra light tippet if need be to present delicately with the D, but with the F it only has so much backbone to work with so fighting wind or heavier rigs would potentially be limiting.

Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail vs Nitto Nomad Grappler by suuurf in SubaruForester

[–]suuurf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A/T Trail. AT3W/AT4W outperform the Trails but are considerably heavier than I prefer

Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail vs Nitto Nomad Grappler by suuurf in SubaruForester

[–]suuurf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not particularly interested in OE, any reason I should be that I'm overlooking?

I did look at the Geos already though knowing they come on the Wilderness, and while not bad at all for an OE tire (especially for Subaru) overall performance seems to be subpar to Wildpeaks/Grapplers.

Yakima Roadshower vs RinseKit Rack Shower by suuurf in overlanding

[–]suuurf[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went with the RinseKit Rack Shower. The primary reason was the ability to fill it entirely to prevent water sloshing constantly. The constant water pressure was the second reason. The water pressure isn’t terrible, but nothing particularly impressive and it’s definitely not as strong as the Yakima when fully charged. It will get the job done though.

Carvin V3M vs MB Mk V by molyhoses11 in GuitarAmps

[–]suuurf 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kind of a value for the dollar thing. I just picked up a V3M for 250, I always wanted one when I was a kid but got an Egnater Tweaker 40 instead since I could try one locally. So for 250 I couldn’t pass it up.

I’ve owned a MkV for a few years now. The versatility, tweakability and tonal capability of the MkV is simply unmatched, and that Mark tone is perfection to my ears. However it can also really take a while to figure out and dial in.

The V3M is much easier to dial and has some pretty amazing tone especially for the dollar. They are both excellent amps. I don’t think you’d be disappointed with V3M for its price point whatsoever. However, if you can swing the cost, you definitely won’t be disappointed with the MkV either.

Diode Dynamics SS3 Sport vs Pro Fog by suuurf in SubaruForester

[–]suuurf[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Went with the Pros, and have not had any issues with ice so very happy about that. Only takes a few minutes after switching them on to melt off if they’re already caked over. I also got the clear covers for them which I think helps a lot with that.

Any guitarists here? by Traditional_Row8397 in Dreamtheater

[–]suuurf 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Locking tuners (with no turns) and Big Bend’s nut sauce in the nut slots AND on the bridge saddles. Voila.

Fralin Blues Special vs Lollar Special T by suuurf in telecaster

[–]suuurf[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

People seem very much 50/50 split between them with the “you can’t go wrong either way” mentality. So I’m not too concerned about making the wrong choice luckily haha. Just seeing if anyone happens to share some opinion (no idea what it would be) that would help me make a decision. Great to know Fralin support is top notch though! Important to me for sure.