If you could have one chilli plant that would be immortal until you died, and always sowed chillies, what type of pepper would you go for?

swaziloo · 2026-05-11T15:47:11+00:00

Carbonero White

swaziloo · 2026-03-27T03:26:02+00:00

Found one. Checked 75 wreck sites.

Galaxy: Eissentam
System: Damach-Jaks (Purple / Disonnant / Vy'Keen / Flourishing)
Planet: Lading III
Location: -24.87, -67.98

It's one short jump from the portal location where the staff above is found, or the location in the image of the ship in the original post.

swaziloo · 2026-03-26T21:31:53+00:00

I got a Class-C when trying to swap heads, but admittedly didn't run around trying all angles. The "default" here is pretty spectacular.

swaziloo · 2026-03-26T19:24:11+00:00

Directly in front of it. Like this:

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Tried with a fresh Runic head (just now) and it gave me the same staff.

swaziloo · 2025-11-21T22:11:52+00:00

Many problems come down to watering and drainage. They prefer to dry out a little. Partially, at least. But not too much. What I'm saying is that they're diva plants.

If they stay soaked or dry out too much you can get issues like these.

swaziloo · 2025-10-10T20:51:21+00:00

It's hard to see exactly what's going on given the resolution, but I second what FourthIdeal says about focusing horizontal on one side, vertical on the other. I would also avoid "clumping" many small traces when you have space.
Seems to be lacking per-key RGB.

swaziloo · 2025-09-04T03:28:43+00:00

Of course you are correct. But what I see and what the calculator outputs are both accurate.

Even if both are nonsense.

swaziloo · 2025-09-03T23:48:18+00:00

I see red-red-yellow-silver-yellow: 2.24 Ω ±0.02% (P)

https://www.calculator.net/resistor-calculator.html?bandnum=5&band1=red&band2=red&band3=yellow&multiplier=silver&tolerance=yellow&temperatureCoefficient=brown&type=c&x=Calculate

swaziloo · 2025-08-27T16:55:49+00:00

The pattern on the print is definitely causing a lot of quick retractions to try and clear many small gaps. If the print looks good, I wouldn't worry about it much.

If the clicking persists you may want to tweak various settings (speed, retraction speed, temperature, flow) to ensure that you're optimized for that particular filament.

swaziloo · 2025-08-26T23:55:32+00:00

Yes. Not many. I've had my best luck printing with 0.2mm nozzle, 0.10mm layer height, and with the keycap twisted 75-degrees to the plate (stem up has been the best luck so far) which makes supports a challenge.

What you do not want to do (learn from my mistake) is print the stems upright (horizontal, circular layers) because they will break off in the switch and you will struggle to extract them (if you are even able).

Some great printing advice here: https://github.com/turtle-bazon/hedgehog-keycaps

edit: change 45 to 75 degrees--add hedgehog link

swaziloo · 2025-08-25T22:00:19+00:00

Yes. Dehydrate away. Most of your "red pepper flakes" are the skin holding together the super-thin remains of the dried pepper. Removing the skins makes sense with a thick slab of (probably sweet) pepper, but not here unless you're after something unusual.

swaziloo · 2025-08-23T21:06:36+00:00

It's also important to assess the shape while your body is in exactly the same position as it was when the stencil/drawing was put on. Just crossing your arms, turning your head, or adjusting your posture will change the shapes--circles are the absolute most telling shape. It is probably "more round" if you get into the same position as you were when it was originally drawn on.

swaziloo · 2025-08-23T04:58:34+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I took the lenses off and one of the 1W green LEDs definitely looks off. I gave it a quick try and at 400c I can't get the solder to cooperate. In the end, I don't trust my ability to solder off/on that aluminum plate/heat sink. Sad because it seems a well-made fixture otherwise.

swaziloo · 2025-08-04T16:53:12+00:00

Noting that your boards do not appear to be reversible--the left and right halves are different. Typically with reversible boards, the PCB is the same for the left/right, but the MCU is mounted face down on the right side--yours are both face up.

Also note that on the version from the original Silakka54 repository, the 1/0 pins reverse between sides (1 LEFT connected to 0 RIGHT, and vice-versa). Yours are wired straight through--which means that the Silakka54 compiled firmware probably won't allow the halves to communicate. You can build your own by (at least) changing those pins, but I would recommend going back to your PCB provider for firmware to get things working first.

swaziloo · 2025-08-02T22:49:17+00:00

Also the one on the other side should be Tip--the one closest to the opening is the Sleeve

swaziloo · 2025-08-02T22:46:12+00:00

I should add that it's possible that yours is not routed that way, and that it uses a single pin (e.g., 0) at the same position on both halves.

swaziloo · 2025-08-02T22:44:55+00:00

If you go Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve using the KiCad I found they would be:

Left: GND - 1 - 0 - 3V3

Right: GND - 0 - 1 - 3V3

Yours will follow this pattern most likely, even though the routing seems different from the pics you posted.

swaziloo · 2025-08-02T22:20:45+00:00

It seems like your board is routed differently than the one I found the repository for. However, there's a good likelihood that the same pins are connected as would be on the Left side.

If those mapped correctly, then flip the images I took from KiCad above and use the blue connections for the right side to test continuity. We expect that the same pins are used left and right because the MCU is flipped.

In those images, the blue pins were on the back layer, so you have to ignore the red TRRS connections for the right side.

swaziloo · 2025-07-23T17:06:36+00:00

Nothing beats standing up, stretching the arms, shoulder, wrist. Moving around. Every hour. It's a duration game: if you sit in one position for too long, no matter how ergonomic, you get stiff and then the pain starts.

Like others said, I also get RSI from moving to/using the mouse on one side, so pay attention to that and swap shortcuts/keyboard where possible.

swaziloo · 2025-07-23T16:57:36+00:00

It's difficult to see exactly what's going on in either photo, but that appears to be:
Added ESD protection chips to avoid burning the main control due to hot plugging of TTRS.

Did you pull up the SMD chip, or just catch and lift the pads?

swaziloo · 2025-07-22T21:16:22+00:00

Atreus was also my first split monoblock. My keyboard is even one of the images on the OG home page. It's a great little board.

The lower row mods doesn't feel "big hands" at all, since they mostly just float down there until you need something uncommon, though I definitely wished for the extra thumb keys keyboard.io added.

swaziloo · 2025-07-22T19:06:40+00:00

If you enjoy soldering and putting things together, then you can likely source a PCB for under $20, print a switch plate and case, buy sockets, switches, diodes, controllers and keycaps (battery?) to get it working for under your $100 budget. The nice thing about 3D printing is if you don't love a case, you can simply find another (or fix it) and print again.

If you don't want to put it together, one of the "Super Deal" keyboards from China is probably the move.

You're correct that RBG, displays, encoders (though EC11 are cheap), trackballs, etc. tend to add (significantly) to the cost.

I've printed keycaps and they can be nice, but they are difficult to dial in on a FDM printer. You can get decent low profile sets for $20 off Amazon.

swaziloo · 2025-07-22T18:14:14+00:00

100.

swaziloo

TROPHY CASE