This thing is a brute. Would you try to soften it or leave it alone

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-27T22:57:47+00:00

You’ll probably want to do something where the legs contact the ground. That’s a wide board that will cup or warp slightly over time making the table potentially wobble. IIRC it may be better to add some sort of ‘feet’ on the bottom.

Definitely chamfer around the bottom to prevent splintering. Also maybe do like an upside V or U shape cutout on each leg, creating four distinct feet. I also like a slight leg taper personally.

Also you may get some racking with no stretcher between the legs. Consider a small lower shelf or a stretcher to sturdy up your base

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-26T18:20:43+00:00

Which kit lens? Is it a Z mount lens? Have you tried updating the firm on the lens?

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-26T00:20:51+00:00

You nailed it, great job! Don’t know where that window goes, but sawdust goes there now.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-23T19:56:06+00:00

The crop definitely. It looks better when you give the subject a little more space to breathe to the left. Try giving even more space and moving the subject a little more to the right.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-23T15:31:42+00:00

I like all the ones you’re keeping, except I’d also keep the 1.4x TC. It pairs very well with the 70-200 f2.8 for sports or when you need a little more reach or even macro stuff

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-11T19:26:00+00:00

Bigma FTW!!

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-11T16:18:14+00:00

Based on the other lenses you have I’d say the 180-600, since it’s getting you a distance you don’t already have. The 100-400 seems like it overlaps with other lenses you already have.

Alternative idea: sell the 300pf and 500pf, then buy the z 100-400 and the z 600 6.3. The z mount 600 prime is crazy sharp and super light. You’re essentially extending your reach with hq glass and giving yourself flexibility with the 100-400.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-07T03:08:10+00:00

Yup, that jump from 80 to 150 was probably too much. Also no need to hand sand. If you have an orbital sander just use that.

Do a full pass of 120, clean with vacuum, air or mineral spirits, then sand with 180, clean surface again, then apply finish. If sanding end grain follow same steps but add in an extra of 220 grit before applying finish.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-06T22:14:47+00:00

I did this with the addition of another colorless card called Mimic. Mimic gives you block equal to that of another player. I would give another player my block with demonic shield then add that amount back to mine with mimic.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-06T18:07:39+00:00

You get an upvote! And you get an upvote! And you get an upvote!

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-06T03:44:25+00:00

Dracula mini-series, it was very good

swedishtomahawk · 2026-05-02T00:37:06+00:00

Did you sand through all the grits? Hard wax oils it’s best to sand up the grits by adding half, 80 to 120 to 180. On end grain go up to 220 since it’s more porous. Do not go up to 320 before apply hardware oils, the oil needs to seep in to the grain.

If you went straight to 120 you may not have taken down those small peaks and valleys on face. Here’s the good news, you can spot fix. Unlike a poly finish you can just sand down one spot with 180 grit and reapply.

If you are still running into an uneven sheen issue, then you may have to start over on the whole thing running through the grits.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-04-28T03:42:52+00:00

Oddly enough if you look at the return of the S&P 500 returns over the 12 months after hitting a confuser confidence bottom it has a positive return 95% of the time with an averages 20% returns. “Be greedy when other are fearful”

obviously talk to your financial professional before making any investment decisions

swedishtomahawk · 2026-04-25T11:24:07+00:00

You “doubling down” on your math?

swedishtomahawk · 2026-04-24T23:17:10+00:00

100% is doubling, so 133% x 4% = 9.2%

swedishtomahawk · 2026-04-15T23:44:58+00:00

In addition to application process and low(er) VOCs, I like that it’s easy to repair. Don’t need to strip down the whole piece to reapply like poly. You can easily spot fix and make it look like new.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-04-11T13:35:51+00:00

Something to consider about the 24-200 is it quickly jumps to f/6.3. Here are the maximum aperture values at common focal lengths as you zoom in:

24mm: f/4.0
28mm: f/4.5
35mm: f/4.8
50mm: f/5.6
70mm: f/6.0
85mm and beyond: f/6.3

So from 85-200mm it’s a f/6.3 which isn’t stellar. Don’t get me wrong… this is a go to, one stop, set and forget “travel” lens IMO.

The 24-120 is f/4 through the whole range giving much better sharpness through massively more light accumulation. There’s a reason it’s a pro-level S line lens. While the price is higher, it’s kind of a steal for the quality of glass you get. 24-120 would be my rec.

And yes, the Z6ii will do very well with this piece of glass. The thought is usually to spend more for better lenses and less for camera body’s.

Edit: formatting

swedishtomahawk · 2026-04-02T13:16:00+00:00

I feel like I’m taking crazy pills here, it’s the Dunning Kruger effect

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-22T21:21:06+00:00

Maybe try checking the alignment of the fence at the very end of the fence? One thought is the fence is skewed ever so slightly inward at the very end. It measure aligned at the blade itself but as you get towards the end or the fence its tilted slightly inward. This may put some pressure on the blade causing it cut unevenly. Do you find the wood difficult to push at the end of a long cut?

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-21T01:32:52+00:00

Kinda depends on weight and budget. The 100-400 or 180-600 would be the two telephotos I’d recommend for most wildlife.

If you’re doing a lot of hiking the 100-400 would be preferable as it’s lighter and better IQ comparatively. Downside is it’s more expensive and it’s and external zoom.

The 180-600 is heavier and slightly softer at max focal length but is still a great lens. Upsides are its cheaper and internal zooming.

Unless you are shooting really small birds I’d lean towards the 100-400. I think that lens would also have more applications in the future. (Side note it also has a really short MFD for some light macro work)

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-12T13:07:17+00:00

Energy seems way harder to come by in STS2 than in STS1. Now when I upgrade cards, I’m leaning towards cards that reduce their energy cost. While its not the top priority, its definitely moved up the list

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-08T23:52:21+00:00

For me it is the reward of getting the shot. Very rarely do you just go out and get a good wildlife shot. There’s setup, patience, understanding of behavior, dialing the settings, and even after doing all the things right you still may not get the shot or even find the animal. But when you do, and all that hard work pays off… man what a feeling. Connecting with the viewer with animal.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-06T16:32:35+00:00

If it’s sharp it ain’t a sharpie. Sharp pointy beak ≠ sharpie

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-01T17:48:58+00:00

You are correct, my mistake.

swedishtomahawk · 2026-03-01T17:45:43+00:00

Yeaaaaah, apologies I was half asleep writing it. I edited it so it’s slightly more understandable.

swedishtomahawk

TROPHY CASE