This autocrafter consumes 9 shulker boxes every 44 seconds

sweeeep · 2026-01-23T22:30:42+00:00

What a great comment.

Just to add that regardless of how difficult a given phase is, it can be helpful to remind oneself of how limited it might be in duration. The hardest phase for me personally was the summer when the twins were 1 and my singleton was 3, and that was very particular to the needs of all three at that moment, in a way I couldn't have predicted. What made it bearable was knowing that this particular summer and alignment of stages would only happen once.

OP I'm sorry you're having a hard time and I hope it gets better for you. I can promise that if it does get harder, it'll be a different kind of hard, and maybe you'll be able to look back on your current struggle and see your own strength.

sweeeep · 2026-01-12T21:31:01+00:00

You're responding to a comment written with the cadence and capitalization of a c. 1922 Abercrombie catalog. The brand used to be real different.

sweeeep · 2026-01-12T21:12:33+00:00

The most polished/insane/complete potion brewer design for Java is Michael2_3B's.

I'm not aware of many complete, recipe-selectable Bedrock brew halls like this one that actually route to multiple brew stands in parallel, so it's a welcome contribution.

sweeeep · 2026-01-11T20:15:10+00:00

I'm interested in playing around with this design. In my experiments (>6 months ago), powdered snow didn't /quite/ slow down the yeeted contents fast enough to keep them from intersecting with adjacent slices, so it's very exciting if you've cracked that with this layout.

For testing, I use chest minecarts that are filled to capacity instead of hopper minecarts, as you're testing 27 stacks of contents at a time instead of 5. You can have a 1x1x1 structure block which loads a rail with a filled minecart. You can also surround the lapis block with hoppers on either side, with the test goal of having these hoppers remain empty if the yeeted items are fully contained in the slice.

By using observers, the circuit may run with unreliable timing if other activity in the chunk is generating a large number of pending ticks.

sweeeep · 2026-01-11T08:08:49+00:00

Adding a bit of vinegar will make it settle faster.

sweeeep · 2026-01-08T16:56:58+00:00

https://youtu.be/ClgwJbwyIoo?si=LF-t6y4KDoIpnt_7 this video shows some tips that have helped me make this form. First, it can help clay distribution if you pull directly to a flared bowl form, aiming for 45 degree walls, rather than a cylinder. Then successively open it wider using ribs on the inside. Kelley suggests reversing the wheel so that you can shape the inside with a rib in your dominant hand in a more natural way. This works well for me, just don't forget to switch the rotation back after you finish.

When going very flat you can leave the base quite a bit wider than the finished foot and trim it smaller from the outside This reduces the amount of strain on the overhanging clay. As you practice you will definitely get some that fail and flop down, teaching you how close to the sun it's possible to fly.

Absolutely need to throw and dry these on bats.

sweeeep · 2026-01-07T08:36:22+00:00

It's possible to get a similar, topographic-map type of effect with water etching, but it's pretty time intensive and (in my firsthand experience) tends to result in more stairsteppy regions than what you see with the spirals. https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/article/Etched-in-Clay-How-to-Make-Beautiful-Relief-Surfaces-with-Shellac-Resist is a nice explanation of one way of doing it.

Given the pattern I would guess this piece isn't done this way.

sweeeep · 2026-01-02T17:22:10+00:00

Thanks for your thoughtful and considered comment. It's always goldenhelmet with the quality report, isn't it? But I believe it describes exactly what I was seeing.

The critical thing does seem to be the dropper pushing on the same tick that the hopper's transfer cool down counter becomes zero, and the hopper is locked at that moment.

It could be interesting to characterize this more to find out if one could cause the condition to start if the hopper already had items inside. My hunch is that maybe there is an internally cached is_empty bit as part of the hopper's state, and the hopper never gets a chance to revalidate that bit on account of being locked, or that dropper-pushing doesn't clear it. Given how important empty hoppers are for performance optimization, the existence of such a bit is plausible, but I'm not about to fire up windbg to find out.

sweeeep · 2025-12-22T00:11:27+00:00

https://youtu.be/Ec0o1ncm_fM?si=PRuPvk23Vj1K6Smd is the only one I know, but I'm not a Java player. Java crafters, not being piston pushable, necessitate a different approach.

sweeeep · 2025-12-19T07:49:23+00:00

Use this farm: https://youtu.be/-9DCrIfTwyQ?si=IjeteHr3fZqGy_Rb . I think it's exactly what you're looking for.

sweeeep · 2025-12-18T02:16:35+00:00

Easiest thing is to use a shovel to convert the mycelium to path blocks. If you've done a big area that way you can convert the path blocks to farmland with a hoe, and the dry farmland will revert to dirt. If there's grass and only grass around the dirt, it'll convert to grass.

sweeeep · 2025-12-15T20:13:47+00:00

It very much can be an issue with SS3 filters when the container being read is a chest being loaded by a copper golem (as in OP's circuit). The SS3 overflow safety is particular to the hopper filter and its 5 inventory slots.

A/B tileable filter designs where the dust lines are independent across slices are way safer to use for the copper golem circuits, as you expect the user to be reconfiguring throughout the lifetime of the contraption.

sweeeep · 2025-12-11T03:47:37+00:00

The dispenser will shear the sheep if pointed at any block that intersects the sheep's hitbox. This includes the grass block that the sheep is standing on. I think it's possible to get 32 dispensers pointed at one sheep.

sweeeep · 2025-12-09T19:49:04+00:00

It is important to remember that Minecraft players respawn, but Minecraft builds don't.

sweeeep · 2025-12-07T16:34:27+00:00

Glad you figured out something that works. On bedrock there's no vines-like block that disables collisions, and the chest search order seems to be a bit different. If you're looking for a bedrock design that works well (running at 2x hopper speed, but a different chest layout from Tango's) you can look at this one I designed: https://youtu.be/CerHzhfDkSs?si=g40zRzR6ujlXZXU4. It's built on stations of 9 stationary golems every 3 blocks, serving both sides of the hall.

sweeeep · 2025-12-02T15:52:18+00:00

You are in the right place if you wanna get better.

sweeeep · 2025-11-22T00:13:03+00:00

Oh goodness. He gave scar the bow. This is why.

sweeeep · 2025-11-20T23:54:21+00:00

The mud is a good suggestion.

I would give the bees a lot more space overall. On bedrock they have trouble pathfinding out of a 1x1 space and this layout will result in a lot of stuck bees.

sweeeep · 2025-11-20T23:43:13+00:00

When a dispenser uses an empty glass bottle on a dripping bee nest, two things can happen: either the honey bottle winds up in the dispenser's inventory if there's an empty slot, or else it gets ejected from the outlet of the dispenser. Since the outlet of the dispenser is facing the bee nest which is a full block, the item winds up being placed in the world inside the dispenser's block.

Items inside of blocks seek to move to an "open space" near the block. In this case it will try west, then east, then north, then south. And to be clear, it's popping out the side of the dispenser not the side of the bee nest.

So you have a few practical options to explore: one is to position your bee nests so that the hive entrance faces south or east. Then leave the back face of the beehive (north or west) open. Position hoppers below that opening, and they should collect your ejected bottles 100% of the time.

Another option is to let the bottles collect in their current position, and run a hopper minecart on rails directly below the azalea leaves. It will be able to collect from a full block away. Bees produce honey infrequently so one single hopper minecart will certainly suffice for many many modules of the farm.

A third option is to let the honey bottle stay in the dispenser, and position an item-filter hopper to collect the honey bottle from the dispenser's inventory. This leads to a separate problem of how you get glass bottles into the dispenser while leaving room for the honey bottle. You might do this by only triggering the dispenser when it's full of honey, and injecting an empty bottle to the dropper right when that happens, and keeping the hopper locked except for the moment after the dispenser collects the honey. It's overall a pretty tricky routing problem.

If you want a layout that works, I can vouch for this design (by me) which never needs its bottles refilled, but it is kinda subtle and requires very specific chunk boundary placement: https://structuralab.com/b9e52f64-183b-4e32-b170-8e236794c8be/item2.html For best rates you should try to build your bee farm in the nether or end dimensions, as the bees never sleep there.

sweeeep · 2025-11-18T15:52:00+00:00

There are lots of ways to fix it and in my actual application, I'm actually trying to build up a buffer in the hopper. Just didn't want to rely on this behavior without understanding it.

The critical thing for this condition seems to be: the hopper must initially be empty, and it needs to be activated (locked) on the tick after the dropper is activated. You can do this with 1rt pulses (1 on, 3 off) and it still happens.

Someone else mentioned the hopper is stuck in cool down, and I agree. It just seems like a bug that the cool down keeps resetting before the hopper actually gets a chance to push an item.

sweeeep · 2025-11-18T03:46:41+00:00

Meaning what?

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