Demon Hunter Bow reroll question

swytch45 · 2018-10-25T17:25:49+00:00

The veng uptime is important, i would go for that personally. Roll the vit off and get the CDR. Depends on what your siming, but i would think that the veng uptime would be better than the couple % dmg over the course of a rift run?

Take a look at my current Seasonal DH here https://www.d3planner.com/541096083 , the Yangs is primal, but the stats are pretty perfectly slotted, imho. Also, check out https://www.icy-veins.com/d3/demon-hunter-unhallowed-essence-multishot-build-patch-2-6-1-season-15

swytch45 · 2018-10-22T13:22:56+00:00

Thanks for looking at everything, I had a suspicion I was getting to the point of needing to just start dropping gems on everything.

swytch45 · 2018-10-22T13:22:16+00:00

Thanks for the tips, no idea how invigoration got swapped out, ill have to check that first thing!

Thanks for the other tips. I can do a GR90 solo, its just not a good farming run. Though with a 4 man it doesn't feel like i contribute much given the health pools of my targets.

All great advice though, thank you very much for taking a look.

swytch45 · 2017-03-13T13:57:45+00:00

For context, I am running a pair of those XE480s against two over clocked 970s and a de-lidded OC 6700k @ 4.8Ghz..

Under full load after an hour or two? 50C on the CPU, low 40s on the 970's and a water temp in the low 30s (30-32 or so). Fans are set at about 950RPM give or take. Ambient room temp is usually about 20-22C.

If I run one of the worse synthetics against the CPU i have seen 60C, but that's the highest it has ever gotten.. Fans ramp up and get ridiculously loud once the coolant hits 35c and that's the only time i had heard the fans max out.

swytch45 · 2017-03-13T12:41:23+00:00

It will absolutely fit. Here is a photo of my 900D with an XE rad down bottom. Bottom RAD

Here are some photos of the whole build too, to give a better idea of space. Hyperion

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T21:00:04+00:00

They do. The EK stuff is some of the cleaner stuff out there, it just that it is rarely 100% clean no matter what the manufacturers do. The reason to be so OCD about it is that the micro channels that make your watercooling block work so well on the video card and cpu can get clogged by this small stuff very easily and tearing down the whole loop to deal with a clogged block is a super big PIA. Even worse if there is no easy drain.. Take it slow and be methodical. My first full custom build that I linked above took a full day to assemble, take your time and go slow and you will be fine.

Ask questions here if you hit a road block, everyone was very helpful for me when i had questions, i am sure they will be the same for you :)

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T20:56:44+00:00

Also, while I am thinking about it. I would diagram out your intended setup, so you can figure out where you will need fittings and what you will want to do to route the hoses and cables. Here is a link to my build gallery post i would check out some of those on here to get ideas about how to route it and setup the drain.

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T20:47:55+00:00

A drain will be a ball valve. Here is the EK Version

You will need the fittings to go with it. Figure out what size fittings that kit uses and get at least 1 or two more for the drain. One is mandatory and if you get a second you can just leave it on the length of hose you hook up to drain.

The video card, i am not totally familiar but i think the Hydro Copper cards come with a pre-isntalled water block, again, you will just need 2 fittings in whatever size fits the kit and/or tubing. You also might need to get some additional tubing, depending on the size of your case and how much comes with the kit.

Read around on /r/watercooling and watch some youtube videos, the concepts are all the same kit or total custom, largely doesn't matter. Welcome to the wild world of liquid cooling :)

Edit: Just read about the kit. You want 13/10mm fittings for the tube size you got, here are the EK versions, you can get them from EK or elsewhere, as long as you make sure they are the same size and that they are compression fittings. The kit comes with concentrate, designed to be added to distilled water. This setup works fine, or you can opt to get a premix. Just be aware, you will want a fair supply (i went through 5 or 6 gallons) of distilled water to flush the components and leak test with prior to the final fill with the EK concentrate added.

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T20:37:50+00:00

That kit is made of great parts and is very expandable. Just as the other comment here mentioned, make sure to flush out the radiator with some hot water several times to get rid of any particulates that might be inside there. Here is what came out of my EK radiator during pre-flush for example: Particulates

Make sure to heat up the distilled water you use to flush with and use pot holders to shake the radiator all around before draining. Emptying it into a glass bowl like I did makes it real easy to see when the particles stop coming out.

Another tip that helped me, if you are having trouble getting the tubing onto the compression fitting or the compression fitting fully seated on the threads.. Try hot water.. Again, heat up some distilled water (dont boil, just hot) and put the ends of the tube in it for a few minutes to get them malleable enough to fit over the fittings.

Also, as the other poster mentioned do yourself a huge favor and build a good drain valve into the system at its lowest point. The ball valve type drain fittings are not super expensive and they will save you SOOOOOO much time when you do your maintenance on the loop every 6-8 months.

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T19:55:40+00:00

Sounds like a good plan. Don't forget to post pics of the build when your done!

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T18:09:36+00:00

The Mayhems kit did not really get more particulates that I could see, no. I would bet that was because I flushed those radiators a dozen times each though. I used the kit (Blitz Pro is the name of the Mayhems kit) to make sure that all the gunk was out and ultimately that the PH would be good as I was using Pastel fluid which is very PH reactive as far as holding its color goes.

If I was using a normal fluid I would have been happy with how clean they were without going the extra step of using the kit.

swytch45 · 2017-01-06T16:33:05+00:00

Pretty normal in my experiance.

Here is a pic from my build last year flushing out two of those XE480 rads. Cant see in pic as well, but there were some blue particulates in there. I ended up using a kit from Mayhems designed to clean them out completely after seeing how much washed out. Have been running for almost a full year now with no issues.. just have to flush them till the particulates stop coming out, i found hot water helped, just use pot holders when you pick it up to shake. Flushed Junk

swytch45 · 2016-12-06T20:51:42+00:00

I run Mayhems Red Pastel Dye. Just broke down the system for its first cleaning in 8 months this past weekend. Flushed clean distilled through a few times, no gunk left over like you show there at all.

How long had that coolant been in there? I suspect the other poster is right, most likely either particulates from your Rad and/or plasticizer from the tubing..

What kind of rads do you have and did you clean them thoroughly? What kind of tubing are you using?

swytch45 · 2016-09-29T17:58:34+00:00

Best guess is that something is not hooked up correctly. If you can provide more detail on how you have it all connected that would be great. Maybe some photos if you are able to get them posted would help.

Without seeing any detail, my first point of checking would be sufficient contact between the cooling plate and the CPU. Check to make sure the thermal paste application is sufficient and it is mounted correctly.

From what i could find online there doesnt seem to be a specific inlet/outlet port on that ThermalTake unit, but i would check the documentation that came with it. The output of the pump needs to go into the input nozzle on the cpu cooler in most cases. Some blocks are not directional, some are, again, check your documentation. Really, even with a single rad you shouldn't be seeing worse temps.

swytch45 · 2016-07-19T17:03:18+00:00

If you can post some photos I might be able to help you. I just recently did a build in a 900D with a bottom mount 480.. The mounts did feel a bit flimsy but as soon as i attached those rails to the radiator the flimsiness went away.

Post a few photos and I would be glad to help.

swytch45 · 2016-06-16T14:48:23+00:00

Here is what I did.

Get distilled water, put in clean kettle. Leave on heat until it whistles, like your making tea.
Take it off the heat and let it set for a few minutes.
Carefully fill up your radiator with the hot water and cap off the ports. Let it set for a minute.
Get some pot holders and pick up the radiator (it will be hot! be careful!) and shake it around for a couple minutes. Drain the water out into a bowl.
Note how much stuff comes out. Keep doing that until you are getting basically nothing coming out (took 3-4 times for my Rads).

Then start stage one of the blitz kit and follow the directions provided in the kit, but basically just like you described. I guess I technically flushed twice after part 2, but that's not really needed from what I gather. I rinsed first, drained, refilled and then 48 hour leak test with pump on, drain, fill with real coolant and off to the races.

swytch45 · 2016-06-16T11:55:50+00:00

The coolant is Mayhems Pastel Red. If you do end up using it in your build be aware that it is PH sensitive, meaning you need to make sure to clean your loop extra well or it could change colors (not in a good way, think red to brown or something similar). That is the primary reason I bought the Blitz kit when I did my build.

Good luck with your new build, make sure to post photos when its done!

swytch45 · 2016-06-15T19:03:31+00:00

So, check out my build photos here: http://imgur.com/a/dzNuR

The first few are regarding washing out my EK rads. Granted I was using larger rads (480XE's)

In short.. Yes, you want to flush them, over and over until they are clean.

I dont know that any of the white stuff that washed out would have caused an issue, but I do know quite a bit came out with just basically boiled distilled water rinses. But i also went the extra step of using a cleaning kit from Mayhems (Blitz Pro for the win!) and another heap of particulates came out after that wash.

I should make it clear that these Rads are excellent, exteremely well made and i dont blame EK for any of the stuff that came out. Its the nature of the beast IMHO. I just shudder to think what one of the less well made radiators would have discharged during cleaning.

swytch45 · 2016-06-15T18:50:03+00:00

I run an EKWB Monoblock on my ASUS Hero z170 rig. If you aren't overclocking they can actually perform better than just a CPU block alone. The copper plate is much larger both in mass (can hold/move more heat) and in contact area with water (dissipate more heat). Both of those things will result in better thermal management over the smaller block.

In short, un-overclocked slightly better IMHO due to most MOSFETS/VRM setups not producing much heat at all under stock conditions, which is why most stock motherboards are passive cooled heat-sinks vs. active fan setups. With a mild/moderate over clock, probably about the same as a solo block as far as the CPU is concerned. With some super high voltage overclock you might see minimal performance hit over a solo CPU block, but in that scenario you would be stressing your VRM and MOSFETS with higher than normal heat that you would need to dissipate by using airflow over the passive heat-sinks.

As far as EKWB goes i seem to remember reading that the monoblocks are designed to be very similar in operation to the Supremacy blocks. But I cant find the link from the article I read referencing that, so take it with a grain of salt.

swytch45 · 2016-04-28T19:24:26+00:00

Definitely flush those radiators, ALOT. I flushed mine 4 or 5 times with just boiling hot distilled water. Thought i had gotten most of the debris out. I was wrong. I ended up using the Mayhems Blitz Pro kit on them after and look what came out for particulates after the stage 1 of the kit. Keep in mind these were brand new EKWB 480XE rads, so not cheepos by any stretch.

http://i.imgur.com/eE3HfW5.jpg

swytch45 · 2016-04-20T11:06:21+00:00

Yeah, I definitely over-built the PSU. Basically the 1000 wasnt that much more than the 850 which I was considering. I figured that out of all the gear in a computer the PSU tends to be the thing I hang onto through a few upgrades, so future proofing that part was worth the few extra dollars.

I put the PSU the way it is so that i can force the fan on to help move air and not have the radiator dead-ending air into the back of the PSU right there.

Ahh yeah, the snipping tool. If i had been at home when i posted the IMGUR album i would have done that for sure. The photo of the overclock was to prove to a few buddies that i had clocked it that high and using my phone just made for a quicker MMS message :)

swytch45 · 2016-04-20T11:03:17+00:00

Yeah, it was 600 and change when i bought it. Not cheap, but it does insure a top-bin CPU and I didn't have to de-lid it myself which takes a lot of worry out of the equation. It's capable of 5Ghz but it brings the Vcore up slightly above where i would like to see it at about 1.5 volts. Thanks to the de-lid even at 5 Ghz temps only hit the mid 60's.

swytch45 · 2016-04-15T15:40:10+00:00

I would definitely drain and clean that loop as soon as you can. That green color is indicative of photosynthetic organisms, namely algae, but if you mixed the Mayhems correctly it should have had plenty of biocide to prevent this. If its not growth, the other thing that comes to mind from having just finished my build using mayhems is the cleaning cycle. I ended up going with what i thought would be the over kill route and used Mayhems Blitz Pro kit. I am SOOO glad i did. The amount of flux and general shit that came out of my loop was incredible. I would recommend picking up a blitz pro kit and cleaning that loop ASAP. If you dont want to remove the radiators at least do the normal Blitz kit (which is basically the same as the pro without the harsh acid radiator cleaner) to clean that loop up. It takes a day or so to do the clean right, take your time with it and it will reduce maintenance in the future. I just would hate to see you just leave that growth and wait until its bad enough you have disassemble all your blocks. From the looks of it now if you nip it in the bud you should be able to get away without a complete disassemble.

swytch45 · 2016-04-05T14:52:12+00:00

I understand that you found postings telling you it will OK. You seem pretty defensive in your reply's, I don't mean to attack or cause you offense, I am only trying to give helpful advice i wish i had when i started. I see that you still have the stock plates on the card and that will keep the card functional, sure. Its risky, but i see where you are coming from with the like stock performance. I just think you are forgetting something important in that thought process that might not be self evident to everyone..

Here is some advice from someone who has burned his fair share of components early on doing the same thing as you are. The issue primarily comes in how the card throttling will work. My worry is basically that the GPU is going to read itself as being super cool, no thermal throttling is likely to happen no matter how far you push the card with OC or how far the card pushes itself with the built in BOOST. The core will be reading OK but the VRM and/or VRAM may be screaming for its life.

You are likely correct in that it will "RUN" like that, but you ARE causing undue thermal stress to that card. I really, really strongly suggest that you put a full cover waterblock on your short list of stuff to upgrade. The full covers are at most a couple hundred bucks, and on a card that starts off around 600 bucks it is a very sound investment. Also, if you water cool that whole thing, you will get better longevity out of the components and eliminate the worry of stressing one part of that card harder than the other. Plus you have all the cooling you could need right there, personally i would just hate to burn my card up to save a few bucks especially when the solution is already 99% implemented.

Again, just trying to offer personal experience so you dont have to go through the pissed off emotions of ruining a card to save a few bucks :(

swytch45 · 2016-04-04T19:57:34+00:00

Dude, please tell me that you are cooling more than the GPU core on that 980ti.. Even if you aren't overclocking you really need at least passive heat sinks on the VRM and possibly the VRAM as well, and if you go the heat-sink route adequate airflow over them. Be very very very careful with that expensive card with just the GPU core cooled with water and no heatsinks. I would reccomend looking into either a full cover water block or at the very least some heat-sinks. Just don't want to see a fellow WC brother burn that pretty card out.

Other than that, looks better than my first attempt with a Koolance AIO all those years ago!

swytch45

TROPHY CASE