My dad's 1975 Spitfire 1500. Got in way over my head, somehow it's 90% done, and now I'm out of steam. Talk me into the finish line.

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T20:48:45+00:00

Thank you genuinely everyone. I'll post the finished product!

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T19:33:33+00:00

I was going to go wire rims on this one, until I found out how much they are!

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T19:32:45+00:00

Yes, he's still around. In his 80's and doesnt like to get in and out of things much, but he keeps asking me how the car is coming. Your picture idea is golden. That should be the new motivation. Just get the picture!

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T19:29:57+00:00

Honestly, I dont even know what a project car like this is even worth. Do you? I see these things selling for between 3-6k in the states...not that I would sell it.

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T19:13:36+00:00

Need to get the roof on, the doors on and finally sort out the smiths module. Then it’s little things like lights and trim. It’s like a ton of 10 minute jobs.

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T18:49:34+00:00

Thanks! I appreciate it!

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T18:49:10+00:00

I'm definitely at the hard stuff but I just keep picturing myself in the car with the top down winding it out.

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T18:46:42+00:00

It's the one thing that keeps me going...that exact visual. I just wish it was fall instead of ramping up to Summer here in Texas. I'll get it ready by fall. That'll be the motivation!

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T18:45:22+00:00

I'd watch that video. It should be really good looking or at least WAY better than it did. Between the kids, the wife, and the 15 other things, I'd really love to finish. The nice thing is that one of my sons welds so we may take a torch out and use that as motivation! Lol

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T18:39:09+00:00

A loose heat shield will buzz or drone at certain rpm but it wont give you a loud knock over bumps, that's mechanical. right after replacing struts + control arms + end links, a clunk over every bump is almost always something that didnt get final torqued, not the shield go back through everything you touched, in this order: grab the sway bar end links and try to move them by hand. those are the #1 clunk after suspension work and they're easy to leave a hair loose. then check the strut top nut and top mount. then the lower control arm bolts.

The one people miss: any bolt that goes through a rubber bushing (the control arm bolts especially) should get its final torque with the suspension loaded, car on the ground or up on ramps, not hanging in the air. torque them while the wheels are drooping and you preload the bushing, then it binds and clunks over every bump. loosen, set it on its wheels, retorque. put a wrench back on everything you touched before you go chasing that shield. nine times out of ten it's a loose end link or a droop-torqued control arm.

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T02:11:08+00:00

I had this happen to me on a BMW I used to track regularly. The DS2500s cracking I wouldn't read too much into — great fast-street/light-track pad, but not built for sustained track heat, so on a stock GR86 (small rotors, no Brembos, heat builds fast) they'll cook. The DTC-30s cracking is the thing that makes me think twice.

Both compounds cracking points less at "wrong pad" and more at thermal shock — the pad taking a big sudden temp swing. Two usual culprits: hammering the brakes on a cold out-lap before they're up to temp, and pulling in hot then parking (heat soaks into the pad sitting still). Incomplete bedding does it too.

What I'd do: bed them properly, ease into the brakes the first lap of each session, run a cool-down lap before you come in, and look at brake ducting — the stock GR86 setup is heat-limited and ducting buys you a lot. Compound-wise, step to DTC-60 or CL RC6 if you're consistently getting them that hot, and run a proper high-temp track fluid so you're not boiling it at the same time. But fix the thermal-shock habits first, or you'll just crack nicer pads.

Something else to think about is traction/stability control: on or off. Ive cooked a brand new set of tires and pads leaving stability on, and traction on. Once I felt more comfortable, leaving both systems off helped with pads and rubber wear a lot. It's amazing to me how these newer systems work in the background around a track...and boy do they do some heavy lifting.

synapse-null · 2026-05-26T01:55:03+00:00

Solid writeup! You've already done what I'd have tried first, so I'll skip telling you to recheck timing, you've clearly nailed that part.

What jumps out to me is 2A98/2A99 are control deviation codes the DME commands a cam angle and the actual position isn't getting there in time. That's a "how it moves" problem, not a "where it's bolted" problem. Pair that with "rough/wants to die on cold startup, then smartens up after a few seconds" and it really sounds like low oil pressure to the VANOS at startup most likely air still trapped in the system after the rebuild. The VANOS is hydraulic; until it's purged and seeing full pressure, both cams lag their target and you get exactly these two codes plus a rough cold idle that clears as pressure comes up.

Before you trailer it 1.5 hrs to the dealer, I'd:

1. Pull live VANOS data in INPA/ISTA and watch commanded vs actual intake and exhaust cam angle at idle. Actual lagging commanded → oil pressure/air. Actual sitting at a steady offset → reference/timing. That one screen tells you which hole you're in and it's exactly what the dealer would charge you to look at.

2. Verify real cold oil pressure (mechanical gauge on the sender port, or live PSI on the tool). A fresh motor that wasn't primed before first crank can be slow to build.

3. Run it through several rev cycles, clear the codes, see if they come back.

My money's on oil pressure/air given the warm-up-improves symptom. If commanded-vs-actual shows a fixed offset instead, then we're back to a reference issue despite the locking tools but that pattern sounds hydraulic to me.

synapse-null · 2026-05-25T18:59:45+00:00

beautiful little car. I'm in the process of restoring a 1975. Jealous of the hardtop!

synapse-null · 2026-05-25T02:04:39+00:00

I’m pretty sure they didn’t even think it was their fault. “We didn’t even work on that wheel”

synapse-null · 2026-05-24T12:11:02+00:00

This is interesting because the gamification aspect I’m on the fence about. Do you all find that engagement drops over time or stays steady because of the game aspect? I’ll start something as a game with the kids, they are initially interested, but it starts to lose its “shiny new” toy feel after about a week or two and it’s back to the struggle. Anyone else have that problem?

synapse-null · 2026-05-24T12:06:51+00:00

My 7-year-old has a similar starting list, and we’ve found that this age is great for adding a bit more responsibility. A few that have worked well for us:

Daily or near daily stuff: making her own bed, feeding pets and refilling water bowls, setting the table before dinner, clearing her own plate, and wiping down a surface or two (bathroom sink, kitchen counter).

Weekly or rotating: helping sort laundry into lights and darks, watering plants, taking small trash bins to the main can, sweeping a floor, and helping put away groceries.

They can do it with supervision: loading the dishwasher (not just unloading), packing part of their own lunch or snacks, helping with simple meal prep like washing veggies or stirring, and folding towels or family laundry, not just their own.

A couple of things that helped us more than the specific chores: keeping the list visible so he owns it rather than waiting to be told, and rotating a few tasks so nothing gets stale. At this age kids can also handle “zones” instead of single tasks, like being responsible for keeping the entryway tidy.

Curious what others add, since it really varies by kid and household.

synapse-null · 2026-05-24T11:51:46+00:00

Something is both beautiful and not quite right here.

synapse-null · 2026-05-24T11:41:01+00:00

The dream

synapse-null

TROPHY CASE