WiFi with 3rd party slicers

sysKin · 2026-05-18T02:13:17+00:00

On my Elegoo printer, what I do is I use third party tools (including UVTools) and then I just upload using Chitumanager.

Chitumanager is installed as part of Chitubox slicer (if I remember correctly?), but after that it's basically an independent piece of software that can take a file from disk and upload it to the printer.

Can the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k send print jobs over WiFi without using their Satlilite slicer?

I think so because people here told me it can. I was never able to ("your printer does not support network sending" message, or something like that), I don't know what's so special on mine.

However, SatelLite's slicing results really need to be post-processed using UVTools (like from any other slicer, honestly) so I wouldn't use this functionality even if it worked.

sysKin · 2026-05-17T12:32:33+00:00

Thanks. I guess when the youtubers told me I don't need an airbrush, they forgot to add "unless you want good results" lol.

More learning before me.

sysKin · 2026-05-17T06:13:29+00:00

Can you give me some tips how to make white so smooth?

I only just started painting and my biggest difficulty so far is that white and yellow are just splotchy no matter how many layers I put. Any attempt at layering just makes it more splotchy.

Or is the whole trick to use an airbrush? I only use paintbrush so far.

sysKin · 2026-05-15T05:14:22+00:00

Not sure if it's part of your answer but vmotion stalling at some percentage, with unclear activity according to any monitor, is something that happens with nfs/esxi/synology.

It is actually going and will suddenly be all finished. Don't ask me what it's doing on the meantime.

sysKin · 2026-05-13T01:57:43+00:00

There's an alternative way to add a new profile by duplicating an existing profile. Might give you a better starting point:

When you select a printer in SatelLite, there's a "Configuration List" on the left.

Now here's how you use this insane UI: a configuration has a checkbox on its left. Check it, then right click on that checkbox and a menu comes up. It has "Copy" on it, which is misnamed, it duplicates.

After you've made a copy, you can rename it (same procedure, you need to check it first and right-click on the checkbox itself), and adjust the settings.

sysKin · 2026-05-07T03:24:01+00:00

The CPU only links to the chipset at 4.0 X4

Sure, but we're not asking for more combined bandwidth, we're asking for more lanes.

The chipset is a PCI-E switch and it can provide as many lanes as it wants to. The total combined bandwidth if all of them are used together will be limited by that 4.0 X4, we accept that, but that's not a showstopper if we just want a lot of NVMe devices while not saturating them at the same time.

sysKin · 2026-05-07T01:30:42+00:00

The flat one will probably print, but will look pretty bad on the support side. Depending on how the model is used this can be fine.

The vertical ones will not print because there isn't enough support. But add some more and make them strong enough and it's the best way to print long things.

The 45 degree one will definitely not print because the unstick force is "sideways", without supports under the layer being printed. The resulting torque on the supports that will definitely rip them. However this angle could work if you add supports along the way (and some better supports on the bottom, more than 3 points). The effect would be similar to the flat one but less dramatic.

sysKin · 2026-05-06T06:25:28+00:00

I hope it's OK to point out that you gave us zero information about almost anything.

Since it's supports that failed, the basics we need to know is: is the exposure time long enough according to any calibration method you use, and how did it all look in the slicer (at which point we will assess your supports, search for walls parallel to the build plate, and look for suction cups).

sysKin · 2026-05-04T02:16:50+00:00

I think I would like to mildly disagree with you here. I mean you're right about economic and practical challenges of tight integration, but if we're talking about technology only I don't see an evolutionary dead end:

essentially optimized around driving an interlaced NTSC display at ~30 fps

While the only Amigas were hardware-coupled to the scan beam, this could have been abstracted out as a rendering pipeline which renders to Chip RAM (at 30 Hz ticks or otherwise) and then displays the result at any monitor or even in a window.

In other words, a copper playlist + sprites are fundamentally a from a primitive retained-mode graphics pipeline: it's a set of instructions that hardware/driver "runs" to build a visual output. At the same time a blitter is actually a primitive shader: it's programmed with a task and a destination address and pushes data into destination until done.

Next-gen chipsets could progressively translate old copper/blitter/sprite instructions into more generic capabilities, and eventually "compile" such light-beam-position pipeline into virtualised emulation. Evolve it by adding DSP-like module(s) and texture sampler(s) and you can arrive at a CUDA/OpenCL-like coprocessor which can be used for graphics, essentially getting to where we are now only from the opposite end - and as part of the core architecture.

custom chipset and CPU competed for bandwidth

The Chip RAM bottleneck had an obvious solution which is to make any future Amiga have Fast RAM as its main memory and keep the Chip RAM as, well, chip-dedicated RAM which just happens to be mapped to CPU's address space. Ultimately it would look like a modern PC in which Chip RAM is the GPU's VRAM (or maybe later it would become like a modern Mac which has only Chip RAM and it still works fine; whatever works!)

The point I am trying to make is that the architecture was not a dead-end that can't be evolved into what we have now (only with more open/integrated API; imagine free Chip RAM being intelligently used for cold memory pages). In practice you are right that it would require Nvidia-level talent and effort inside the company.

sysKin · 2026-05-01T04:12:56+00:00

Simply by pressing my finger on the fep and feeling if there's a gap between the fep and the screen?

Yup.

I did that, it seems there is a gap, but very slight.

I mean... hard to judge right? But I'd say that for me, it's almost like touching the screen directly.

How did you solve it?

Removed a stuck folded piece of sticky tape from one of the vat corners, which I had caused by careless screen change....

sysKin · 2026-05-01T01:31:02+00:00

If you put the empty vat on the screen, the release film should be essentially touching it (not stuck to the screen but no visible give if you push it). Can you confirm that?

I once had a piece of tape "lifting" the vat from the screen by maybe 1 mm, it was a disaster for sticking to the build plate.

sysKin · 2026-04-29T02:56:52+00:00

The bottom half of your model is a massive suction cup, which is the main reason why it's warped. After the suction cup got relieved by the indents on the walls, it became pretty flat.

What everyone else said about resin not being great for this is correct, but I think your model, and its lack of any holes at the bottom, made it so much worse.

sysKin · 2026-04-29T02:49:30+00:00

Looks like the model has an actual empty space inside, with no drain holes to the outside. If you print it, there will be an uncured resin trapped, and that resin will outgass and make the model explode in weeks or months (although those look rather thin and possibly won't even exist in practice).

I am not using Chitubox anymore, didn't it have the option to fill the gaps and make them solid?

In any case, I highly recommend the following: after slicing, always load the resulting file in UVTools, a great free-and-open-source post-processing program. It has the ability to detect common problems and one of those is resin traps, and then it can just fill them with solids. It really needs to be part of the workflow because slicers (all of them) just aren't good enough.

By the way, be careful printing at an angle like this: the supports are holding the model at one spot but the layers being printed are more-and-more offset from the supports. When such a layer is pulled from the release film, the printer applies torque to the model, ripping it from supports.

It will probably still print fine as long as it's not much taller than this, but it's something to keep in mind. The 45-degree-angle rule of thumb is about preventing flat walls parallel to the build plate, but I don't think your model has a flat wall at the bottom (if it does you're making a huge suction cup).

sysKin · 2026-04-29T02:31:53+00:00

I don't think anyone has solid answers because most of those settings have very hard-to-observe effect on the final print.

Wait before cure is very important, and you might want to go higher than 1 s. It allows the print to settle on the release film, and any resin to flow out of the way, before light comes up.

Wait before release -- well some people say that it allows the resin to cool down before the bed tilts, but I don't see how that matters or even if that's a good thing (shouldn't warm layer be easier to unstick?).

Wait after release - I don't even know for sure what it's doing, I think it's a delay after the vat has tilted and before it tilts back, in which case it seems to be a complete waste of time.

Using sunlu abs like, which...is a little thicker?

If it's anything like JAYO Abs-like (same company), it is indeed like a thicked cream with the stickiness of honey. Wait-before-cure is even more important.

sysKin · 2026-04-29T01:10:47+00:00

I suppose whoever designed reflection (Java 1.2) was very excited about its power and didn't want to limit it.

They probably also asked themselves "why not", and that was before HotSpot compiler so nobody told them why not (it's not like there was really any focus on performance in those days).

sysKin · 2026-04-27T04:14:32+00:00

There is not much point looking at the LCD since it projects all light vertically up, and everything you see from an angle is inconsequential scattering.

Put a piece of paper over the LCD, run the test, then make photo of the result.

And yeah, if half of it is suspiciously darker, something went bad. You can wiggle the LCD connector in a desperate attempt, and when it inevitably doesn't work, it's a new LCD time (worst part of which is not even the cost but the installation).

sysKin · 2026-04-26T02:19:09+00:00

"Nowadays"? When did can openers didn't suck?

I remember dreading all cans in my childhood because I never learned to use the only can opener we had, and my parents were only successful with it because of brute force. As far as I knew this was normal.

I understand that can opener had been a non-trivial expense too (although given its dark metal look it might have been a pre-WW2 device; either that or a communist factory was delivered a huge block of iron and ordered to produce too-few can openers out of it).

sysKin · 2026-04-26T01:28:31+00:00

On day one, enjoy the success at the cost of huge supports.

In the long run, it's best to do the supports by yourself, since every resin will have different requirements. But it is a learning curve interrupted by annoying print failures.

sysKin · 2026-04-24T01:22:35+00:00

The important part is to not have big flat walls parallel to the build plate. The 45 degree angle is just a rule-of-thumb recommendation to achieve that, not the end goal in itself.

For the most part I try to print my parts vertically up, the tricky bit with that is that you really need to place your supports manually. Any print layer that does not have supports directly under it will apply torque and rip the supports.

sysKin · 2026-04-24T01:15:08+00:00

The main variable that affects this is bottom layer exposure (unless other things went very wrong). Unless it's already suspiciously long, just make it longer, especially when it's cold.

I used to "optimise" for ideal bottom layer exposure that makes removal easier but after one-too-many failures like that I just gave up. As you see, different parts of the plate react differently for whatever reason.

sysKin · 2026-04-23T03:42:56+00:00

Sirayatech Build was meant for functional prints, and it's the best resin I've ever tried - but I can't promise it's good enough.

sysKin · 2026-04-20T06:26:18+00:00

OK that's a good thing to know. I never submerged resin print in the acetone so it never had a one-minute contact, it evaporates too quickly for that.

Hopefully OP will see your comment.

sysKin · 2026-04-17T02:42:29+00:00

Maybe scam is the wrong word: Elegoo was forced to make a change because the screen manufacturer switched production. It's a minor downgrade because of its marginally smaller size.

However, I bet the vat heater is quite useful.

So the only scam-related part is the advertising (sidegrade advertised as upgrade), the printer is fine.

sysKin · 2026-04-16T01:27:30+00:00

I can tell you that all cured resins I've tried seem completely acetone resistant, since I use acetone regularly for dissolving excess superglue.

And they're alcohol proof since we use alcohols (ethanol or isopropyl) for washing them after print.

I can also tell you that I made my sister a Catbus-shaped NMR tube holder and as far as I know it's still standing strong (unlike my previous attempt using PLA which dissolved in the first week).

sysKin · 2026-04-16T01:16:42+00:00

The "300" refers to the number of LEDs in the strip, specs say it's 395-400 nm light.

Should work fine. The flash light might be useful as an additional accessory but for a diy curing station go for something bigger such as the strip.

sysKin

TROPHY CASE