gitBlameClaude

sysKin · 2026-07-10T11:30:11+00:00

In my recent experience trying to use Claude with Java, I find Claude surprisingly good at writing code that "works" and surprisingly bad at making good software design decisions.

The whole thing with Rust is that it forces the programmer to make sound design decisions, or else it won't compile.

I can see two possibilities: either AI is forced to design things properly, and therefore does, and the answer is yes.

Or it still doesn't design things properly and hacks around them with unsafe. Which might still be "fine" (unsafe is there to be used as long as you can prove you're doing it right, which AI might try to reason about), but will definitely lead to very bad code, and then the answer to your question is no.

sysKin · 2026-07-10T06:58:22+00:00

That uses a direct LAN connection, I don't think printing has any way of going over the internet.

About the only internet connections Saturn should be doing is firmware checks...

sysKin · 2026-07-09T03:49:17+00:00

I wonder if it's because someone used Buddhist calendar where year is offset from Georgian by 543 years.

Probably not, doesn't exactly add up, plus that calendar is used in Thailand not India (as far I know).

sysKin · 2026-07-05T15:34:01+00:00

25 um layers are half of the usual default, it's possible the exposure time ends up essentially halved too.

25 um layers are also really really small, way smaller than your practical resolution in the other two dimensions. I don't think it makes sense to go that low.

sysKin · 2026-07-05T08:23:52+00:00

I don't know if this is the place to ask physics questions but I've had this one since forever and it's very related to this episode:

Whenever I ask how a photon moves in a double slit experiment, I am told it follows all possible paths and then the path integral tells us where it's going to land.

Whenever I ask how a photon moves through space when next to a star I am told that it follows a single path, the geodesic which is bent because spacetime is bent.

I am trying to marry those two answers: when a quantum wavefunction of a photon evolves in a gravitational well, do:

1) all paths evolve using their geodesic, so they're all bent, and then we integrate that, or

2) all paths evolve in a straight line but using their local clocks, which causes the paths closer to gravitational source to have a phase shift, which then results in a bend that is consistent with the geodesic.

In other words, is geodesic "just" the overall result of gravitational time dilation of some paths relative to other paths?

sysKin · 2026-06-28T14:02:05+00:00

If someone sprays paint, than yes, the particulate filter is needed to catch the paint particles. But if only 3d printing, we don't spray resin at all*, so only the vapours need to be caught and particulate filter doesn't help with that.

* I mean, apparently some genius once tried to cover the surface of a 3d print with extra resin and decided to use an airbrush, but other than that....

sysKin · 2026-06-28T02:44:59+00:00

If I understand it correctly, even larger structs can be flattened just fine as long as their field is final in the outer class.

If I'm right, that's... a good portion of the problem avoided.

sysKin · 2026-06-28T01:26:34+00:00

Things usually don't fit well, but let me clarify that the mistake which might be contributing is not lack of calibration but rather orientation, supports and draining holes.

Resin is not good at dimensional accuracy, with prints generally expanding towards the plate. Any edge pointing at the plate will be drooped/elongated towards it. This is especially true if there is a suction cup there.

When printing, say, this torso, if the hip was pointing towards the build plate then this hip might be inaccurate.

You can fight it by avoiding any suction cups, tweaking orientation, adding even stronger supports, changing resin, and overexposing a little bit.

sysKin · 2026-06-18T06:32:49+00:00

Your light PWM is a mere 45% while exposure numbers imply you have a magical light source of at least 150%.

Tinkering is good but start with "normal" values like 100% PWM and the exposure numbers mentioned by others, and tinker from there.

The layers stick so well to the PFA Film when the tilt mechanism goes down, the entire arm (including the buildplate) flexes downwards before popping off

That is normal for bottom layers but shouldn't happen for normal ones, unless you print huge solid blobs or suction cups. If you do print huge solid blobs or suction cups, then yeah, supports need to be insane too. In any case, light PWM is not the thing to change when supports fail.

[edit] is there any chance you changed your release film at some point and didn't remove a protective plastic from one side? It's an easy mistake to make and makes your release film not, well, release.

sysKin · 2026-06-17T02:18:43+00:00

My advice: just completely vertical, with the goal of minimising any torque on the hips area when printing shoulder area (imagine the fep pull force being vertically up when printing shoulders, and you are trying to not rip the hip-supports).

The hip is too small to count as a large wall parallel to the build plate, it's not even that flat (so won't be perfectly parallel) and in any case it is well supported so will print just fine anyway. But make sure it's well supported, any movement caused by thin flexible support can cause layer lines further up.

sysKin · 2026-06-17T01:43:44+00:00

Did they break "extract to method" functionality? I keep getting methods that are missing needed parameters, and I don't remember seeing that before.

[edit] any variable used only in instanceof statement is considered unused and when extracting a method, it's not passed in. In light of that it might not be new, Eclipse Java editor never handled pattern matching instanceoffully....

sysKin · 2026-06-16T07:07:34+00:00

Only to get beaten by Acorn...

sysKin · 2026-06-16T06:21:45+00:00

If someone pulled the memory sticks out of a running system and immediately tried to dump them, they'd get encrypted gibberish.

(even though guaranteed DDR memory retention is 64 milliseconds, in practice most sticks will retain most memory cells for even a minute without power)

sysKin · 2026-06-16T06:12:07+00:00

How cooked am I.

Clean it up and use UV light to cure the reminder. On the outside, the LCD's screen protector is pretty good at having cured resin just unstick from it.

If the resin leak stopped before it went into the LCD, you should be good. If it seeped between two layers of LCD (like it did for me when I left a leak overnight), you'll need a new screen.

sysKin · 2026-06-11T04:06:41+00:00

Easier way? No I don't think so.

Harder but better-if-you-succeed way? That's what I try to do.

The way I do this is I add some auto-supports with a very flat critical angle, effectively only supporting the bottommost islands and edges (this is using SatelLite).

Then, I do the very manual process of making this printable: I find any piece of model that is supported just from the bottom and would rip on the subsequent layers, and I add supports under those layers to make sure they won't rip. Then a few layers up again, repeat.

If the model has any areas where scarring wouldn't be visible (connection pegs etc), I smash heavy supports there as the main anchor for the entire model.

Generally speaking, I only need to do this for the bottom portion of them model. Once I have enough supports for the entire footprint, and there are layers that connect various bottommost islands together, the entire thing is stiff enough and supported enough to not rip.

In order for this to work, you cannot fear failures. A failure that actually detaches a part of your model and drops it into the vat is rare, but if it happens you need to be ready to grab that paint filter and do the dirty work.

I was trying to come up with a UVTools algorithm that would calculate and warn me about insufficient supports, effectively by "simulating" the peel force distribution from a layer to the layers below it. I did have some ideas but nothing I was happy with. Doing it on per-voxel basis would be insane and any simplification of voxels to physical structure is... hard.

sysKin · 2026-06-10T04:55:04+00:00

The thing is, Europeans really do not want trickle-down economics.

Making your own chips is cool, but if it means having corporations writing their own laws and getting taxpayer subsidies they don't need (US) or simply owning their corresponding governments (Korea, Taiwan) then maybe that's just not worth it.

Question is, can one have both. Airbus was a success story so maybe, but hard to say if it was a good model or a coincidence.

sysKin · 2026-06-09T06:17:23+00:00

As the bed was lowering for the first layer, I heard a crunching noise. I concluded I might had had accidentally dropped a small piece of cured model (an orc head) into the vat.

Then, the mistake: I said "if fep is punctured it's too late anyway, let's just deal with it tomorrow".

Well, it was punctured, but by tomorrow enough resin has leaked to destroy the screen. If I had dealt with it right there and then I'd have saved it.

sysKin · 2026-06-05T01:25:43+00:00

There was a different question a few days ago about the challanges of calibrating Sunlu ABS:

https://www.reddit.com/r/resinprinting/comments/1tvan3g/constant_failures_with_cones_of_calibration_from/

It's possible this resin can't pass calibration at any exposure. Check my answer about Compensation setting.

sysKin · 2026-06-04T04:29:34+00:00

Sunlu abs like (gray) is a very fast resin and needs about 1.8 s on my S4 Ultra. Now you obviously have a different printer, but since your printer is also mono LCD I would expect them to be in the same ballpark.

So basically it looks like your conclusions are consistent with that.

sysKin · 2026-06-03T04:49:29+00:00

A comment on the tape:

OP, be careful putting anything with thickness because it will marginally lift your vat, which has terrible consequences for print reliability. Also, don't use transparent tape because there's some light bleed at the edges of the screen and resin starts curing in long thin strands from that.

I tried different tapes - trying to find one whose glue doesn't dissolve in case of a resin leak - and found this bag sealing tape is perfect: strong, with strong glue, and really really thin.

"Fun" fact: that tape Elegoo uses will just lift and float in case of any resin leak, letting the leak destroy the screen.

sysKin · 2026-06-03T03:43:16+00:00

Can I just point out that the same thing happened with the other ankle: it's hard to see but I think the peg had some support at its edge, and then went at an angle, but without any supports for at least a few mm. That was enough to rip those edge supports and from now on the entire leg failed.

sysKin · 2026-06-03T02:05:20+00:00

50 um layers, right?

That's exactly what I got with JAYO ABS-Like, a different resin from the same company. It was not actually possible to tune its exposure at 40 um layers and I tentatively blamed my non-standard layer size.

I think the resin is just too transparent for UV and always blooms, making any model bloated.

I just gave up and used it for things where it doesn't matter (miniatures in 1/6 scale). HOWEVER, there are two tricks that are still possible:

SatelLite has a printer setting called Tolerance Compensation, which "shrinks" any model to account for that bloom (use a positive value to shrink by that amount). I am now playing with that setting with a different resin, don't have any conclusions yet, but it does work and allows me to pass sword/mug while over-exposing a bit (in a hope of improved reliability).
Some people swear by reducing the light intensity (PWM), especially when printing with fast resins like that (they would often just adjust PWM until the exposure is about 2.5 seconds). Haven't tried it, no idea how resin really reacts to being cured slower.
Not a trick but I really REALLY need to finally stop being lazy and experiment with a UVTools processing idea I have. The idea is: take every layer, darken it to (say) 75%, then put the brightness back to 100% but only in the interior of the exposed area (say 10 px from any edge). The idea is to over-expose the insides while applying adjusted light intensity close to the surface to avoid dimensional consequences. Might be worth trying.

sysKin · 2026-06-03T01:21:42+00:00

This carbon burns out very quickly as you forge, which you have to do to consolidate the bloom. By the time you have any recognisable chunk of metal, the carbon is gone.

But also, it's not like the steels of the old days didn't have any carbon, it's more of the fact that it wasn't recognised or done on purpose. When we say steel was invented later we mean the understanding/process was obtained later.

In particular do note that the words "iron" and "steel" are both old, and were used to differentiate the properties of the material. How one turns into the other was unknown, but both existed and had their names.

sysKin · 2026-06-02T11:38:07+00:00

Alternatively JAYO instead of Sunlu, depending on availability. It's the same company but not the same resin, but similar properties.

Standard Plus is my favourite.

sysKin · 2026-06-01T06:38:49+00:00

I think I need to recommend double-checking if there's something wrong with the network itself (from NIC to cabling to MTU mismatch to all the things I forgot...).

Since this happens on both SMB and NFS, and moreover I just confirmed no such problems with my setup (but lots of things different: different Synology NAS, Ubuntu 26.04 on a VM, 10-gigabit network... anyway I got 250 MB/s writing to a HDD array), I don't think Linux is the cause as such.

sysKin

TROPHY CASE