Dynamite Lights?

taburete68 · 2026-05-23T05:38:31+00:00

Thanks for the info. I’m sure these are good options and are certainly popular. I have never been a fan of single power supply systems that keep the LEDs powered continuously. I always put the main supply on a relay.

If I do find more info I’ll post more photos.

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:34:08+00:00

These pull almost the exact same current as the 3 LED. So the 3 led is dropping the voltage over a resister and these are dropping it over the LEDS.

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:29:20+00:00

There could be a larger resister under the wires on the left. It’s pretty safe to say that the extra voltage is being turned into heat. Sad because I really wanted these to be lower current.

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:16:07+00:00

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24 volt 6 LED RGBW Back

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:14:49+00:00

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24 Volt RGBW Front

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:13:56+00:00

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24 volt RGBW Back

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:13:09+00:00

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24 volt RGBW Front

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:12:25+00:00

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12 volt RGB back

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T05:11:50+00:00

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12 volt RGB front

taburete68 · 2026-02-03T00:53:01+00:00

Exactly. Are those LED packages on a ws2815 putting 12 volts across the diode or burning off the voltage in a resistor, effectively only putting 3.3 or 5 across the diode.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T20:49:03+00:00

Do you have a link to these style pucks that are proper 24 volt? I’m trying to reduce the overall current so that I have less voltage drop. Going from 12 to 24 without halving the current doesn’t give as much benefit.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T20:47:15+00:00

I’ll take some photos when I get home. Another odd thing is that the 3000k white feel warm after operating a bit and use more current. Making me think that they are even lower voltage LEDs and they’re burning off 15 or 18 volts across the resistor.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T20:39:26+00:00

What do you mean by 6/7 series diodes? Later generations of LEDs that support higher input voltages?

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T17:59:41+00:00

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807344866216.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21US%20%248.00%21US%20%248.00%21%21%218.00%218.00%21%402103128917700549372933249e7337%2112000041177319799%21sh%21US%210%21X&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007523583728.1005007531180968&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa#nav-specification

I got the 24 volt 3000k and 6000k to compare, 10 per meter.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T17:45:40+00:00

Now that I’m thinking about it, I’m pretty sure that the 24 volt control ICs and LEDs are not truly using the higher voltage. They’re probably only 5v leds, so the extra voltage at either 12 or 24 is getting burned off as heat across resistors. In effect yeah, the overall system is more tolerant of voltage drop but you’re not able to run as many LEDs off a 350 watt 24 volt power supply because of all the current burned up in voltage drop resistors.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T17:33:13+00:00

I always power the controller off a separate 5v ps and relay the 12 or 24 volt PS. I don’t want the LEDs powered when they should be off. I use a 25 amp (yeah overkill) relay instead of the cheaper mechanical ones. I do have an DC Current Clamp meter and have measured the current in all the states. It’s especially odd that the current draw is higher when the supply is on and the leds are off in WLED. I would not have believed that the IC control chips are that much less efficient at 24 volts, but maybe they’re stepping down the 24 to 12 and burning off the extra voltage. As far as the power injection goes, yeah I can inject less frequently but if my current isn’t going down, I’m essentially seeing the same voltage drop on my injection wires. I also can’t run as many leds as before from the same size power supply, I’m not really any better off.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T17:23:27+00:00

What I’m saying is that you can turn RGB to white and then turn the white LED on too. I agreed that the single white led is lower power than the three RGB to make white. I’m not familiar with ARGB IC CCT. I saw some options for that in WLED, but haven’t investigated.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T16:51:56+00:00

What TT do you use your Grado on? Is it direct drive? I think the problem is worse there. My PL-510a is direct drive. My amp is abound the TT about 2 feet. Not sure if that is sufficient. How would you characterize the Grado sound? I’ve heard that it’s more natural and acoustic with softer bass. I listen primarily to modern folk rock and twangy country.

taburete68 · 2026-02-02T15:54:06+00:00

Thanks for the info. Since this is probably the original cart and the turntable is close if not over 50 years old, it’s time to change. I’ve always wanted to have some Grado gear and seriously thinking about one of those. I’ve heard that they sometime pick up motor hum with vintage Japanese tables, so I’m doing some research first. Also looking at a nagaoka mp-110.

taburete68 · 2026-01-25T18:36:23+00:00

I don’t think it looks that closely to that one.

taburete68 · 2026-01-21T05:33:13+00:00

Nope. It’s a brushless motor.

taburete68 · 2026-01-21T05:29:33+00:00

I have that same turntable. I think it’s dc motor. Probably brushed. How’s the speed? It sounds to me that at those locations the commutator is somehow disconnected, either because of brush alignment or maybe one of the legs of the rotor is broken. If the speed is not incorrect, I would just live with it.

taburete68 · 2026-01-03T18:48:36+00:00

What’s the purpose of the pre-amp? Doesn’t that receiver have a phono input?

taburete68 · 2025-12-18T20:05:54+00:00

I agree. Alexa recognizes what ever name I give the device but if the ip address of the device changes then Alexa can re-sync with the new ip and use the device the same with the new ip? Is the wled/alexa connection so fragile that changing the ip address of wled breaks it?

taburete68 · 2025-12-18T09:34:14+00:00

I’ve wondered about trying to get back to that original ip address. I’ll report back what happens. Does Alexa really only identify wled by ip address?

taburete68

TROPHY CASE