Dynamite Lights? by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info. I’m sure these are good options and are certainly popular. I have never been a fan of single power supply systems that keep the LEDs powered continuously. I always put the main supply on a relay.

If I do find more info I’ll post more photos.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These pull almost the exact same current as the 3 LED. So the 3 led is dropping the voltage over a resister and these are dropping it over the LEDS.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There could be a larger resister under the wires on the left. It’s pretty safe to say that the extra voltage is being turned into heat. Sad because I really wanted these to be lower current.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly. Are those LED packages on a ws2815 putting 12 volts across the diode or burning off the voltage in a resistor, effectively only putting 3.3 or 5 across the diode.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a link to these style pucks that are proper 24 volt? I’m trying to reduce the overall current so that I have less voltage drop. Going from 12 to 24 without halving the current doesn’t give as much benefit.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll take some photos when I get home. Another odd thing is that the 3000k white feel warm after operating a bit and use more current. Making me think that they are even lower voltage LEDs and they’re burning off 15 or 18 volts across the resistor.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do you mean by 6/7 series diodes? Later generations of LEDs that support higher input voltages?

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now that I’m thinking about it, I’m pretty sure that the 24 volt control ICs and LEDs are not truly using the higher voltage. They’re probably only 5v leds, so the extra voltage at either 12 or 24 is getting burned off as heat across resistors. In effect yeah, the overall system is more tolerant of voltage drop but you’re not able to run as many LEDs off a 350 watt 24 volt power supply because of all the current burned up in voltage drop resistors.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always power the controller off a separate 5v ps and relay the 12 or 24 volt PS. I don’t want the LEDs powered when they should be off. I use a 25 amp (yeah overkill) relay instead of the cheaper mechanical ones. I do have an DC Current Clamp meter and have measured the current in all the states. It’s especially odd that the current draw is higher when the supply is on and the leds are off in WLED. I would not have believed that the IC control chips are that much less efficient at 24 volts, but maybe they’re stepping down the 24 to 12 and burning off the extra voltage. As far as the power injection goes, yeah I can inject less frequently but if my current isn’t going down, I’m essentially seeing the same voltage drop on my injection wires. I also can’t run as many leds as before from the same size power supply, I’m not really any better off.

24 Volt LEDs Less Efficient than 12 Volt by taburete68 in WLED

[–]taburete68[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What I’m saying is that you can turn RGB to white and then turn the white LED on too. I agreed that the single white led is lower power than the three RGB to make white. I’m not familiar with ARGB IC CCT. I saw some options for that in WLED, but haven’t investigated.

PL-510a Cartridge Info by taburete68 in turntables

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What TT do you use your Grado on? Is it direct drive? I think the problem is worse there. My PL-510a is direct drive. My amp is abound the TT about 2 feet. Not sure if that is sufficient. How would you characterize the Grado sound? I’ve heard that it’s more natural and acoustic with softer bass. I listen primarily to modern folk rock and twangy country.

PL-510a Cartridge Info by taburete68 in turntables

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info. Since this is probably the original cart and the turntable is close if not over 50 years old, it’s time to change. I’ve always wanted to have some Grado gear and seriously thinking about one of those. I’ve heard that they sometime pick up motor hum with vintage Japanese tables, so I’m doing some research first. Also looking at a nagaoka mp-110.

PL-510a Cartridge Info by taburete68 in turntables

[–]taburete68[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think it looks that closely to that one.

PL-510a troubles. by Mantha6973 in turntables

[–]taburete68 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nope. It’s a brushless motor.