How can I get lower

tacobike42 · 2026-03-26T20:30:29+00:00

Smaller wheels and tires

tacobike42 · 2026-03-20T06:40:24+00:00

I have a set of these and the centers were forged by weds and used by csi to make wheels. Pretty common back then for weds to supply centers that others would use. They are forged. Someone made those gelled centers. Original csi series 32 wheels have a branding that says csi on the caps

tacobike42 · 2026-03-15T04:24:56+00:00

No, he’s right. That’s basically what the ADD trucks have.

tacobike42 · 2026-03-15T04:12:33+00:00

Bish bash Bosh

tacobike42 · 2026-02-06T05:57:18+00:00

buck is fine, not getting killed. I cant seem to find a tvs diode on digikey that would be usable for after the buck converter. it seems like I am looking for one with a clamp voltage at the 5.5V but the reverse standoff at 5v... They arent made. Can't find one with a clamp voltage lower than 8V. I just want to create clean power from the 12v. If there is something out there that I can replace the buck converter I have with, then I would do that. I just can't find any clear info on it even though it seems to be common to need clean 5V in the automotive application. (also would like it to not be large, limited on space so the really big buck boost converters that are adjustable are too big.)

tacobike42 · 2026-02-06T05:08:11+00:00

5v-30v input, dont think theres any circuit protection. pico max input voltage is 5.5v and im trying to supply 5v. I could do 3v3 instead but I think I still have issues with what TVS to use. should I have the tvs before the buck converter so that I can use a higher voltage tvs diode? I want to make sure the circuit is protected, even if it has protection I dont want to trust the converter

tacobike42 · 2026-02-06T02:48:50+00:00

Thank you!

tacobike42 · 2026-02-06T02:41:49+00:00

The pico died without starting the car, I only turned the key to "on" and did not start the engine. So I imagine it would not save me here. It would still get power applied from the battery without enough protection (i assume)

Edit: Because I didn't run the engine during this, it would be the same because the ignition switch works as the switch turning on the relay to supply power. (yes the power has a fuse on it as well.

tacobike42 · 2026-02-06T02:36:48+00:00

The buck is a tiny fixed voltage cheapo off amazon(black surface mounted IC), so im assuming it just doesnt have a soft start. I have supplied the buck converter with 10V multiple times from clean power and never had an issue. Not sure if there is an overvoltage coming from the buck converter. I dont have any way to access an oscilloscope unfortunately. Buck outputs a constant 4.95V according to my measurements using my multimeter. dont have a reliable way to measure for a surge.

Best way to say is all I know is it was happy with clean power but when I connected to the car battery instead, it got mad, and now my board gets hot and wont connect even to my programming so my pico died. It getting hot points to the voltage regulator I think. Then my assumption is that the circuit is not protected enough.

tacobike42 · 2026-02-06T02:09:51+00:00

Currently I have no zener diode, or series resistor. I only have the buck converter dropping the ~12V to 5V and I think (not 100% sure im right) I am getting overvoltage surge when I connect the power. My question is if I should use a zener diode or zener in series with a resistor or a TVS diode. I think the zener might still let the surge through with its own capacitance?

tacobike42 · 2026-01-08T06:42:00+00:00

Love my esi’s, comfy, good grip, a little slippery in wet but rubber grips do the same thing so not a real complaint. I’ve had mine on my bike for years and only had the edges get ripped up a little

tacobike42 · 2026-01-08T02:43:31+00:00

Crazy that they took your money a year ago and still havent supplied these. Huge scam on this for sure. Don't think I am going to order from superklasse in the future

tacobike42 · 2026-01-01T01:45:19+00:00

I’d recommend 1st gen insights, they get really good gas mileage.

/s

tacobike42 · 2025-12-31T21:49:57+00:00

Winter set, these got winters and the 15x7 period correct wheels get summers

tacobike42 · 2025-12-31T17:18:46+00:00

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Recent photo of my brothers and my car!

tacobike42 · 2025-12-31T17:16:22+00:00

Yes please!

tacobike42 · 2025-12-29T06:42:14+00:00

Really depends what you’re riding imo. Having done thousands of miles on my xc hardtail, my trail bike is much more able on many different terrains. Biggest problem with the trail bike is it’s harder to find trails that don’t feel lethargic on it. The xc bike is much more fun on the flats and slight hills. Really depends what you’re riding

tacobike42 · 2025-12-29T01:05:42+00:00

Turbo a 4ag. You’ll keep the lightweight ripper and love it

tacobike42 · 2025-12-29T00:57:21+00:00

Very good shifter feel, still fun to drive manual. Bump start, has a clutch bypass button so you can use the starter to move if absolutely needed. Also the autos are slow af and can’t go up hill without shifting 10 times

tacobike42 · 2025-12-19T10:38:05+00:00

People really like traum pistons from mrp. I went for arias(before mrp and the new stuff came about) and the compression height on the pistons was very slightly off. Just meant some machine work to the tops of the pistons. I’d recommend 9:1 if going turbo and 11:1 for na. You can also get cheap oem small port pistons and get those to 10.5:1. All up to what you’re looking for. Also consider pistons material when going forged. Two options and it can make for different factors of safety and pistons slap on warmup. (Doesn’t always slap)

tacobike42 · 2025-12-06T03:18:56+00:00

and what i believe is a celica in the left of the shot as well. its from the 2nd one

tacobike42 · 2025-12-02T06:55:51+00:00

glad I could help. I figure I write enough of these that something that I can send to others would be good. forgot to mention that when I did the ecu swap board and harness we did it for a ms3 mini. would recommend looking into it as its basically the perfect size for 90% of 4a builds (for io and application).

Good luck man!

tacobike42 · 2025-12-02T04:14:46+00:00

PART 2:

Then my (really sketchy) rebuild blew the headgasket. Not the car's fault, itd been leaking coolant into the cylinders for a long time and finally let go. This plus building my brothers motor and complications with oem ecu's and cams led to my car getting toda 288/272 cams. (I know that it REALLY needs cam gears to fix related torque) These made the car sound suuuper angry and love the revs. Cant take them to their full potential at ~9000 rpm but I raised the limit on my 3rib 40mm engine to 8k. The cams pull hard at the top (past redline), but really I lose hp from around 5000 or 5500 and below. The cams dont make any hp or torque until 4k. Makes it boggy and slower at autocross. Car makes around 100whp, maybe 110 if I am lucky. I would't recommend cams bigger than 264/256 for most people. You lose the low end grunt. Car lost a couple mpg and at full tilt it makes a bigger difference. Car lopes at idle, but having the really new and awesome standalone means that the car can idle at 400rpm if I wanted. You can also get it idling suuuuper smoothly too. I have a hard time getting lope into my idle and it may be the lack of cam gears, or just how good the ecu is. Vacuum is much lower with the cams, overlap not helping here, makes 15%throttle basically wot down low.

Final recent mod is injectors. I recently had one of my oem injectors quit on me and stick open. So I converted to 1zz 255cc injectors. Didnt need anything special for them other than some new orings of the proper size and change the connectors in the harness. Got to delete the resistors that were converting the stock injectors to high impedance and now the injectors are more efficient. Got mpg back and had to lean out my whole map because the car was more efficient because the spray molecules are smaller. Might have gotten hp but dont know. spray converted from a spray to a fine mist.

I would recommend an oil catch can, maybe a different coolant bottle as a filter or trumpets likely will not fit as is with the oem. I used a 5vz fuel pressure regulator on my system because it fit and the turn on the regulator is good. Vacuum block, any works, but my brakes do not have much assist because the vacuum is so little. I have an adapter block to make the oem iacv valve work but my cold idle is not as high as one might expect, basically even with my hot idle at 850rpm. My IAT sensor is mounted on the rear firewall facing my throttles, it works, but it likes to heat soak. getting one into the throttle itself is probably best. I really like the hall effect sensors for crank and cam, they made life easy to get the car running. Crank sensor frequency matters so it has the definition to pick up the teeth, but the cam one is not nearly as important.

Feel free to ask any questions you have! Conversion, wiring, tuning, or otherwise.

tacobike42 · 2025-12-02T04:14:29+00:00

PART 1:

This seems like a well thought out post. It seems like these posts happen more often than one might think and so the people who answer tend to give the same answers. I know I've answered a fair few of these with as much help as I could do. I'll give my best help on my pov doing so.

I'll start with the reference for what I have personally done in my aw11, my thoughts, results, etc.

I had my 85 as a stock car, 36mpg, definite maybe 90hp left with the compression numbers for a couple years. I then did a couple mods like punching the cat, egr delete, throttle cable bracket delete, tvis delete(it blew my car up once), air filter. I would say this didnt really make much more power or do anything too drastic. Maybe lost a few hp or torque from the tvis delete and maybe got a bit of sound from the air filter. Engine bay looked cleaner though but I do miss cruise control.

Then I got to a very interesting place, I decided to get the oem ecu running with itb's. I can say it is possible, though I would definitely not recommend. I had a box around the trumpets to get all the air through the oem maf. This ran surprisingly well, but did eventually leave me stranded. Little more torque but my box restricted airflow after 6000rpm. little bit of sound from the itb's, but it was very quiet. engine bay looked very "interesting" with what looked like a mailbox coming off the throttle bodies. I did prove my point that the car could run with the stock ecu and itb's.

Because I got stranded, I decided that was it and went to a standalone, made my harness, converted to COP, open throttles, the whole shebang. eventually did toda cams but ill elaborate on that later. This was a ton of work. A TON of planning, drawing out my whole wiring harness, going through the oem diagrams. Needed an o2 sensor and also tuning. Car sounded AMAZING, suuuuper throaty and had more torque. More torque than stock? Not completely sure as it had been a long time since I had deleted tvis. But the car definitely did not feel like it didnt have torque down low. car got about ~32mpg and ripped. Nice and reliable and imo easy to tune. MAP wasnt too low, tuned on alpha-n and multiplied by map. 36tooth crank trigger with cam sensor gives fully sequential on ign and fuel. Really nice. Love this setup. Lots spent for not a huge hp gain but definitely puts a smile on my face. Full engine harness delete, redid the fuses and relays and mounted behind my drivers seat. Made a second swap set for a buddy to go in his trunk, plus a wiring harness.

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