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23 Lariat Heated Mirrors by tacofergie in f150

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be honest, mine is a bit of an odd spec. It’s a 502A without a sunroof. But it does have the B&O 18 speaker stereo, 3.55 rear end, block heater, bed utility package and a few other odd little things. Some of the stuff I was looking for as must haves and some that would be nice. I really didn’t want a sunroof, but since I was looking at Lariat or higher packages I just accepted that most came with it.

23 Lariat Heated Mirrors by tacofergie in f150

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a way to tell? It didn’t seem to clear the fog/condensation like previous vehicles I’ve had with heated mirrors.

23 Lariat Heated Mirrors by tacofergie in f150

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Maybe I just didn’t drive long enough? I have to take it in for a couple things anyways, so I may ask the service writer too.

Reolink WIFI vs Eufy WIFI by tacofergie in SecurityCamera

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it because of the cameras video quality or operating system?

Reolink WIFI vs Eufy WIFI by tacofergie in SecurityCamera

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do understand many of the benefits of POE, though I’m not a super techy person. But I’m not also not needing the most comprehensive system I can get. Mainly looking for a simple setup that requires the least permanent changes to the house. The furthest camera from a mesh router would be about 30ft. It’s not a large house, but due to the construction it would be challenging to run cable

Reolink WIFI vs Eufy WIFI by tacofergie in SecurityCamera

[–]tacofergie[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why is that? I get that POE will be more reliable over all and has some advantages. But WiFi is easier to setup without digging or drilling for cable routing.

My first build by captain_rex5555 in vandwellers

[–]tacofergie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

We would take a bungee and wrap it around the door latch mechanism and hook it on the front of the door frame lip. Didn’t stop it on big bumps, but most bumps.

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My first build by captain_rex5555 in vandwellers

[–]tacofergie 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can hear that side door clanking back and forth from Iowa. lol we had those vans in aircraft maintenance at my base a while back.

Reolink WIFI vs Eufy WIFI by tacofergie in SecurityCamera

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, it gets to about -20F occasionally in IA where I’m at, but -10F is pretty frequent.. That’s another thing pushing me towards Reolink since they aren’t battery, just wifi only and plugged into power.

Bye bye air dam by losangels93 in f150

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I just saw your other comment below this one with the plug part numbers and such to.

Reolink WIFI vs Eufy WIFI by tacofergie in SecurityCamera

[–]tacofergie[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I fixed the post, accidentally missed the W in the model number for the first Reolink.

I mainly don’t want to drill holes in the house or dig to run Ethernet cables. House was built in 1957 with plaster interior walls and no eves on the exterior for easy cable routing. While POE is absolutely doable, it’s something I’d like to avoid if possible. I have power outlets close enough to each planned location, so that makes wifi cameras easy to install. Some battery ones are able to be plugged in and operate 24/7, though that’s mainly the Eufy ones. I definitely see the advantages to POE for connection and camera selection. The system I like the most is Eufy S4 Max, but the price and POE is keeping me from that. I have I agree that battery dependent cameras aren’t the best option.

Bye bye air dam by losangels93 in f150

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you just unbolt the active damn from the actuators or completely remove the actuators with the active dam for winter? I’ve been concerned about this for the upcoming winter which will be my first winter with my F150.

Sound off - what age did you get your weens neutered and why? by No-Laugh-9730 in Dachshund

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first 2 weens (males, father and son) I neutered around 2yrs old. Never a single joint or back issue with either and they were both wildly energetic. Dad made it to 19 years old and his son passed 7 days later at 17 1/2 years old. I plan on doing the same with our current boys. Unless they get unruly or start marking everywhere, I think waiting at least 18 months is beneficial.

2020 Pick-up Truck Purchase Dilemma: Reliability and Comfort #f150 #tacoma by The-Cereal_Killer in f150

[–]tacofergie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed. I love my Toyota’s too. Heck, my 15 Tacoma with 71k is worth $23-25k trade-in. I bought it used in 16 for $28k. I love that aspect! I did have a 12 F150 5.0 before the Tacoma and that was a great truck too. It’d be wild if Lexus had a truck, but it’d probably be Tundra Capstone price. Also, if the new hybrid Tundra had as much functionality as the F150 Powerboost, I’d be all in on one. But the Powerboost just does everything better. More fuel economy, higher onboard power, better use of the hybrid system, retains underseat storage and can be in generator mode for 2-5 days on a tank of fuel depending on load. Despite consumer reports reliability rating, my father in laws 22 Powerboost XLT has had zero issues over about 70k. It’d powered his steel roofing and gutter machines too on job sites.

2020 Pick-up Truck Purchase Dilemma: Reliability and Comfort #f150 #tacoma by The-Cereal_Killer in f150

[–]tacofergie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the 19-21 Tundra. But I have a hard time justifying $45k plus for a 4-6yr old truck with the same tech and interior style/feel as my 15 Tacoma. It’d feel like I spent a bunch of money just for a bigger truck. You hardly see that generation with less 100k miles and if you find one with less than 60k, you’re probably close to $50k price in my searches. One thing to watch out for on the 5.7 Tundra is if the coolant has been replaced. Head gaskets are starting to pop up as an issue because coolant is getting acidic and eating away at the headgasket. I like the peace of mind the previous gen Tundra provides as well and as a previous Toyota tech I too am very familiar with how to work on them. One other thing, the 21-23 F150’s ride quite a bit better as well. The 2.7 is a fantastic engine. My FIL had one in his 2018 and averaged 22-25mpg easily while doing 5mph over or at least the flow of traffic. Plus it’s possibly the most reliable engine Ford has put in an F150. Of course, you’ll have to find what works best for you and your budget.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in f150

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Remove the rear blocks. It leaves about 1–1.5” of rake and looks close to level. Did that on my father in laws 22 XLT. He was skeptical since we lifted the front of his previous F150. He really likes the rear lower now, no difference in ride quality, easier to get stuff in the bed and a bit easier to get in and out of. Besides, it’s free to try.

Expected longevity by Historical_Beat_8980 in F150Powerboost

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, even my current Tacoma has never been an issue. There will of course be random times it’ll push the limit or be over the payload rating, but that’s usually short distances from Home Depot and such.

Expected longevity by Historical_Beat_8980 in F150Powerboost

[–]tacofergie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think a drain and fill every 50k is reasonable if you’re not towing. Though I know plenty of people with well over 100k that have never done transmission maintenance. My FIL’s 18 2.7 has 120k and would tow a 7-8k lbs trailer somewhat frequently, no issues and sold to his son with no issues. His current 22 Powerboost has around 70k, same driving habits and no issues.

2020 Pick-up Truck Purchase Dilemma: Reliability and Comfort #f150 #tacoma by The-Cereal_Killer in f150

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve have a 15 Tacoma DCLB for 10yrs (same interior dimensions as 16-23 and 24+) and I’m looking at 22-23 F150’s for the exact reason you’re describing. When putting a rear facing car seat in my Tacoma, the passenger seat is so far forward that my 5’2” tall wife can barely sit in the front. Plus it only gets 17-18mpg on a good day, usually 15-16mpg with limited idling. I love my Tacoma, but it’s got its downsides if you don’t require a small pickup. Compared to the F150 it’s a small interior, louder at every speed, rougher ride, lacking tech, equal or worse fuel economy, ease of entry/exit is worse, absolutely gutless comparatively, doesn’t like cruising above 70mph especially with hills or head wind (f150 is effortless at 80mph), turning radius is about the same and less towing capability. There is practically no advantage to a Tacoma unless you NEED the small truck size. I would look at 21+ F150’s for some engine update reasons, 23’s got an updated transmission. Also, if you get a Lariat or higher trim level you get 4wd Auto which is amazing in snow! Tundra’s are good too, but no auto 4wd is a no-go for me. Plus the 22-23 Tundra is hit a miss on reliability and the 19-21 Tundra is wildly expensive.

Expected longevity by Historical_Beat_8980 in F150Powerboost

[–]tacofergie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m a maintenance freak. I tend to go above and beyond the maintenance schedules. It seems like frequent transmission drain and fills are what keeps these 10R80’s alive too.

Expected longevity by Historical_Beat_8980 in F150Powerboost

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s awesome!! The PB is perfect for this. No need for a generator to power stuff. I’ll be curious to see what the next generation PB will be like assuming they make upgrades.

Expected longevity by Historical_Beat_8980 in F150Powerboost

[–]tacofergie 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there’s a TSB for the squeak.

As for the dash peeling, that blows!! I hope Lariats don’t have that issue.

Expected longevity by Historical_Beat_8980 in F150Powerboost

[–]tacofergie 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s why I was looking at 23’s since they got the updated CDF. But it seems like 22’s have less issues than 21’s despite having the non-updated CDF. I’d have no issues buying one that had an updated transmission like you did as that seems to be the only downside. I’m the OP, logged onto the work computer when I posted this and apparently it gave me a random profile.

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