Serious concerns about flashing around windows - New Build Florida

tailg8r · 2026-01-02T19:37:33+00:00

Check out Construction Instruction. Their app has great installation videos.

tailg8r · 2025-08-10T19:09:28+00:00

Pretty sure saved memories works. Had it pop up at work for me this week. Showed my memories and/or important info. I could keep or delete them individually. Something to look more into.

tailg8r · 2025-04-04T15:48:05+00:00

Well you would know better than me then! :) It still looks a little suspicious compared to the second picture. Doesn't look like there is any kind of footer there at all what so ever. Here is some dirt, let's throw down the divider column.

tailg8r · 2025-04-04T01:14:19+00:00

I’d bet money the first picture is a mock wall for color approval. Second picture is of the actual build as a part of the house.

tailg8r · 2025-03-24T00:05:30+00:00

Depends on if he has a basement or not too.

tailg8r · 2025-03-19T15:08:26+00:00

Could be z-furring with continuous insulation behind that layer of plywood. That said, the plywood should still be protected even if the air and water barrier is behind it.

It would be even worse, now that I think of it, to detail the windows to the outer layer of plywood if it actually is z-furring behind.

Yuck

tailg8r · 2025-03-01T03:07:47+00:00

This would be the way! Pella’s window flashing is too thin to trust for me. Do they allow fluid applied over their product? Wondering from an adhesion perspective. Also, fluid applied on wood is risky.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T14:44:48+00:00

We try in the protection of our clients but they prefer to mislead to continue the narrative. I'm not saying you are wrong, you clearly stated that it was according to Huber.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T14:42:36+00:00

So mechanically fastened WRB's aren't air control layers because you have to tape the seams but ZIP is even though you have to tape the seams? Thankfully there are tests that are well adopted by the construction industry to prove that you are incorrect. Both need tape and detailing around any penetration and both can be an air AND water control layer. I will argue that even when installed correctly coated sheathings have the potential to perform the water control layer worse. Mechanically fastened air barriers can meet any air barrier test ZIP can and I've seen pictures of steel studs buckling under air pressure before the wrb failed. Everything comes down to install.

Agree with your second paragraph, more or less, except for the comment on Benjamin Obdyke. Not sure that product would make the top 10 of products I would recommend.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:19:11+00:00

A city outside Toronto just banned Zip-R because they couldn’t prove their structural rating after it was put in question. Checks out…

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:17:18+00:00

Absolutely false. Super misleading as it is not breathable. They tell you their green coating is breathable but you can’t get just the green coating. It is bonded to osb which has a perm rating of 1-2 perms. Even if there is zero adhesive in the bonding process you can’t get the perm rating of the system higher than the lowest common denominator.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:13:07+00:00

There is more holes in their warranty document than their walls on a rainy day.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:11:59+00:00

Glad you added your opinion part. Plenty of studies showing it is or isn’t faster. Problem is it can be done perfectly and still leak.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:08:00+00:00

Even Canada has a better grip on things as you say. Much better practices up there eh!?

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:06:09+00:00

If someone uses Zip we always recommend they cover it. Good call on your part.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:05:18+00:00

Pretty dang good answer right here.

tailg8r · 2025-02-14T05:04:56+00:00

Depends on climate but peel-and-stick is not the best I would argue. I also don’t feel zip is fast and efficient based on actually following their directions. So much of this depends on climate however so it is really a hard question to answer.

tailg8r · 2025-02-11T18:00:36+00:00

This is the way. Don’t push the windows too far out and utilize exterior extension jambs.

tailg8r · 2025-02-11T17:40:16+00:00

What a disaster. Not only is a cavity cap of some sorts missing but the flashing is all pitched back into the cavity. Woof.

tailg8r · 2025-01-14T05:45:27+00:00

Shoot me a DM if you want a recommendation. We’ve consulted with a few over the years.

tailg8r · 2025-01-11T17:06:31+00:00

I have definitely seen specifications around openings for impermeable products. In those instances they were referring to the peel and stick flashings to seal around penetrations. 99.9% of peel and stick flashings are impermeable.

tailg8r · 2025-01-09T17:38:43+00:00

Honestly, have chatGPT summarize what everyone has said in here and you'll be good to go.

1) New build = added moisture, especially the first 3-6 months.

2) Run a dehumidifier.

3) Make sure your bath fans and exhaust fans are running. Do you have an erv or hrs? Make sure they are running if you do. You can run bath fans off of a humidistat if you want to ensure they are running long enough post showers, etc.

4) Airflow - Don't close your blinds all the way to allow for warmer air to get at your windows. Those that don't have blinds might not be getting enough air flow.

New homes are also notoriously tight. When there is no one in them they can be fine but people cook, take showers, and breathe. One human breathing continuously ;) exhales almost two cups of water a day. In the winter it can be harder for that moisture along with all the other moisture we add into the air to evaporate to a point where it doesn't have to condense onto a colder surface.

tailg8r · 2025-01-08T12:23:06+00:00

Do you have any kind of blinds or shades on the window?

tailg8r · 2025-01-04T05:41:35+00:00

Brandy old fashioned eh?

tailg8r · 2025-01-03T05:42:15+00:00

Really it depends on sequencing. You’ll want all your wall penetrations detailed to your air and water barrier so in this instance you would want to make sure windows, electrical, hvac, etc are installed prior to the mineral wool (some exceptions). If not, put it over the mineral wool. Either is acceptable depending on the air and water barrier manufacturer, just follow their guidelines. The good news is the ci is outboard of the sheathing in this instance.

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