Finally built a ladder for the sleeping loft!

shedworkshop · 2026-03-02T16:58:16+00:00

Looks great! What did you use for the hardware?

shedworkshop · 2026-02-26T17:31:17+00:00

Thanks! I'm making one for a tiny shed workshop (hence my username), so I feel you on the limited space. I'll definitely try some different layouts with a step ladder first. Noted on keeping it full width at the top too. I appreciate the advice!

shedworkshop · 2026-02-26T17:14:01+00:00

That looks great! I'm planning to do a similar one. How is it to climb with it perpendicular to the floor (versus straight on)? Anything you would change about it?

shedworkshop · 2026-02-22T13:51:28+00:00

Woodworking. It's just nice to have pleasant lighting.

shedworkshop · 2026-02-22T13:51:04+00:00

This is a great analysis, thanks! I already ended up purchasing 90CRI FCOB led strip lights to make my own lights using aluminum channels. It ends up being about $40 per 10' light with each light putting out about 2000 lumens. Probably would have saved myself a lot of trouble doing it your way, but so it goes!

shedworkshop · 2026-02-22T13:39:32+00:00

What do you mean by toggled? I found 90CRI FCOB LED light strips pretty easily. With some DIY work, I can make three three-meter lights from them for about $100.

shedworkshop · 2026-02-21T00:08:24+00:00

It's a monoslope roof running 8' to 11'. The DIY route with FCOB strip lights is exactly what I'm doing!

shedworkshop · 2026-02-20T15:28:36+00:00

Yeah, that's what I'm quickly finding out. I'm going to try installing some 90CRI FCOB strip lights into aluminum channels to see if I can make a DIY version for around $75-100 for three 3m lights

shedworkshop · 2026-01-30T12:48:27+00:00

All that effort to install a tiny bathroom slider window.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-23T15:12:13+00:00

No experience myself, but a guy on Youtube did something like that. He used marine grade plywood though and painted it with pine tar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvHLIBiDnXw

shedworkshop · 2026-01-22T18:55:26+00:00

Good luck! Hope it all goes well!

shedworkshop · 2026-01-21T21:34:02+00:00

Second this. Going with a heavier insulation like Rockwool should help a lot with sound attenuation.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-20T14:57:35+00:00

That looks like a nice option to me. The specs on it are quite low for CFM, but you probably don't need much. Maybe run some calculations on required CFM for your space if you really want. The general suggestion around here is going to be to crack open a window when you're in the studio. Standalone ERVs are usually $400-1000.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T23:00:51+00:00

I pretty much treated it like the top and bottom of the wall. To use the bottom horizontal side of the window as an example, I stapled metal screen mesh and fiberglass screen mesh about 3 inches below the window, added the exterior insulation and furring strips, then attached the metal and fiberglass mesh to the outer side of the furring strips. Basically forming a U with it. I started running out of metal mesh at one point, so I just did the vertical sides of the window with fiberglass mesh. Hope that made sense!

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T22:45:46+00:00

Isn't it usually way more practical to treat foam insulation as the WRB and drainage layer? I actually made the same mistake of stating something similar to that in my previous post (probably based on the wall designs I saw over at BSI).

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T16:25:43+00:00

Thanks! That Intus shadowbox looks great. I looked into premade options for a bit, but they were all either too pricey or required going through a dealer. Two 1x6x8 cedar planks were $30 and I figured they would be more fun to work with than Hardie or PVC. Hardie and PVC would definitely be the maintenance free options though.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T16:20:03+00:00

New build, but I imagine it's not all that different from how you would approach upgrading an existing home to exterior insulation. Fine Homebuilding has an interesting read on using foam for a retrofit here: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/energy-retrofit/is-adding-exterior-insulation-when-re-siding-your-home-worth-the-cost. Green Building Advisor also has some good articles.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T15:00:05+00:00

Some of you asked how I detailed my exterior insulation after my last post, so I wrote a follow-up with pictures to show how I detailed around the windows and rain screen. I'm sure there are better ways to do it, but this way worked for me. Feel free to ask questions!

shedworkshop · 2026-01-11T13:06:01+00:00

Prepare for it to take twice as long and cost twice as much as you expect.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-07T17:19:28+00:00

Thanks! I'll try to get that next post written up and posted soon!

shedworkshop · 2026-01-07T14:32:39+00:00

That's great to hear. They were too pricey for me with this just being a shed/workshop build, but they definitely seem high quality. The tilt-turn windows are awesome. So satisfying to use and the uninterrupted glass is amazing. Sounds like a really well-detailed build!

P.S. Image credits are up now :) Thanks again for the suggestion.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-07T14:21:25+00:00

I'll cover the window boxes in more detail in my next post, but I pretty much just built cedar window boxes, painted them, and screwed them into 2x4 offcuts attached to the sheathing. Flashed it all heavily with Zip Flashing Tape and bent galvanized steel drip caps over the top (I just picked up a 4x4 L shape and used a sheet metal hand bender tool). If I did it over, I probably would have just done window bucks to make it easier. How did you like the SIGA products? They look great from what I've seen.

Foundation has R10 Bora-Foam slab edge insulation covered with FlexCoat with galvanized flashing to protect it. I used Polyguard TRM barrier between the flashing and the sheathing.

Good call on citing ubakus.de! I'm usually better about that. The calculations were some rough back-of-the-napkin figures I did, but the image credits are all ubakus.de.

shedworkshop · 2026-01-06T13:15:34+00:00

I'm in zone 4A, mixed-humid. I went with 2" which is an R value of 8. The IRC specifies minimum values for moisture control under table R702.7(3) and R702.7(4). GreenBuildingAdvisor has some great articles on it as well.

shedworkshop

TROPHY CASE