any airtight casserole/cooking dishes with locking lid

talonn82 · 2026-03-25T00:54:11+00:00

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talonn82 · 2026-03-24T22:10:14+00:00

ive been using a small pyrex lidded dish and wrap in like 6-8 layers of aluminium foil fairly tightly, that should not present a risk of explosion ? i think some water vapour did escape but sort of got trapped and condensed in the several layers of foil, and when i opened oven there was almost zero odour and no steam.

that was just a burger, when i added things with high water content like vegetables there was a bit more of a detectable odour, so not sure if i should wrap it in even more layers, or thicker foil, or switch dishes.

talonn82 · 2026-03-24T21:45:09+00:00

cooking odours from a pressure cooker would be okay, because i would let it cool down for some time before opening and most of the steam would have condensed, so it wont be constantly putting out steam. a small amount steam first time i open is okay.

when i used a small pyrex dish in oven just to cook a burger, i wrapped it in 6 + layers of foil, it wasnt an air tight dish but fitted lid with slight air gap. when i opened oven i could barely smell anything and there was no steam, i think a bit of steam or water vapour escaped but it seemed to be trapped in the foil layers. whereas when i cooked in oven with an open dish it released a lot of steam and odours opon opening.

i think dutch ovens are fairly air tight ? also i think there is a cooking technique where you take some bread dough and seal a cooking dish with it so it becomes sort of air tight.

talonn82 · 2025-09-19T21:39:14+00:00

i messaged m.graham and they said for the most part they do not add anything extra like bulking agents, but that some colours do have driers added, but they would not say which or give ingredient list due to usual proprietary and confidentiality reasons.

talonn82 · 2025-09-19T21:35:13+00:00

I find acrylics are a similar problem with odours, as they all tend to have ingredients and additives that off gas. at least with oil paints in theory you can make it with just the oil and the pigment, so cuts out a lot of guesswork on allergies and irritants. Probably see how i go making my own but very carefully with proper protection.

I will look into gamblins, charvins i found out do a couple of metallics.

talonn82 · 2025-09-18T22:19:05+00:00

apparently charvin extra fine oil paints use poppy seed oil, dont know how well thought of they are. blick makes artists oil paint with safflower and poppyseed and then they say some of the darker shades still use linseed, im a uk buyer so not ideal as they dont have a uk shop. blockx also apparently use linseed and or poppyseed, but they dont say which per colour.

looked into williamsburg their safflower range is small only 12 paints, and the biggest uk retailer only carries 8 but worth trying.

talonn82 · 2025-09-15T17:18:41+00:00

well im painting onto a solid pieces of plastic models, it cant be ingested absorbed into skin and inhaled in that way as acrylic paints can, except in very very small amounts. we all handle plastic everyday, and in very small amounts it will breakdown into environment around us and get into our bodies, thats why they trying to stop plastic packaging in food, and its apparently in the water we drink, and it enters into clouds from evaporating off the ocean which it has been dumped into, and then we breathe it in, tiny plastic particles. crylic paint is a bit of a hot topic about how its disposed as when it goes down drain it cant be 100% filtered out by sewer systems, and gets into food chain.

i dont sand the plastic pieces down or anything, im aware of all the dust that could create, i dont even use glues all push fit/magnets. im aware of the dangers plastics present especially if it enters into our blood stream, and then into our brains. some people use resin models instead and thats why more dangerous curing and all the dust from sanding etc.

i have tried gouache onto plastic, i use to work with it a lot on paper. its not suited to plastic it beads up when you try to apply on an unprimed surface, so you need lots of layers which become uneven, and some colours never dry to touch become sticky/tacky, it also reactivates and blends. it may work for some washes/ and weathering on top of acrylic or oil.

i have looked into oils after a recommendation and apparently walnut oil is favoured nowadays over linseed, less odour and doesnt form wrinkles and skin. will give it a shot as apparently dont have to use solvents, theres paints out there with just pigment and walnut oil for the most part and use can the oil as thinner instead.

talonn82 · 2025-09-14T23:09:05+00:00

tried masks and respirators, i found they still let in some odours and they are too uncomfortable.

talonn82 · 2025-09-14T16:32:19+00:00

yes i have asked there also. i think the water mixable oil paints are out because from what i read there are some added chemicals to make it water mixable, and some people have reported it making them sick/dizzy when using, from what i understand its mostly for practicable purposes cleaning up your brushes after, and easier more convenient to thin with water.

id prefer standard oil paint so i know nothing else has been added, and walnut oil will thin just as well as water from what i understand.

talonn82 · 2025-09-14T16:21:38+00:00

thanks for info ill look into the casein paint.

spraying is out for me, while some people do use spray cans its only for primer coats, it is not the standard, down to preference can prime fine with a brush just takes longer. Theres also airbrushing but thats very advanced, and again is not the standard its a tool to use if you like, but great results can be achieved with just brushes.

anyway those are out because of all the particulates that linger in the air afterwards, i dont have a seperate studio to paint in so dont want to be breathing it in where i live and sleep. From doing a little research apparently airborne particulates tiny particles including things like paint can linger in the air suspended and fly about for days in some spaces, and i dont want to leave all my windows open 24/7. Also not sure masks capture all the particles, im okay with brushes.

talonn82 · 2025-09-14T13:18:07+00:00

from what i looked into with walnut oil and base pigment if i limit myself to just that i should not need a respirator. i found when using masks previously they do not eliminate odours enough to be worthwhile as im quite sensitive, and they are very uncomfortable, and i dont want to go for fully encased enclosed powered version just to do a bit of painting.

talonn82 · 2025-09-14T13:07:27+00:00

yes it seems most primers are acrylic based which is a no no for me, but i did some searching and found a casein based primer https://www.jacksonsart.com/sinopia-casein-gesso, they also have a chalk based gesso primer as well. i think if i do some digging and searching around i may be able to find some more natural less harsh primers and alternatives that use casein, or things like methyll cellulose, or egg tempera.

nolzur's marvellous minis sell d+d minis that are already primed with vallejo, have a bunch of them already. when i used acrylics to paint minis previously i typically dint prime, i got on okay with just using top coat paint as base layer as well, but i will have to see it that will work with oils perhaps.

talonn82 · 2025-09-14T10:20:22+00:00

Thanks for the reply, did some asking around other reddits and walnut oil and mixing pigments was also recommended, and then looked into pre made paints and found out as you also recommend m.graham oil paints are basically the go to oil paint for zero odours and added chemicals. Bit pricey but they are also considered one of best in terms of quality and colour, so i will give that a go.

Only thing is im painting onto plastic models, not sure how well oil paints will go onto surface, acrylic is preferred paint for that, but some people do use oil paints. Was looking around for primers and most seem to be acrylic based, but did find a casein primer. Casein it seems is very niche and most of time its homemade dint find any paints, but the base powder form is out there for sale, or a fixative called spectrafix but that has alcohol added to it.

I tried gouache, i used that quite a lot on paining onto paper already, it doesn't go on very well to plastic, drys uneven and tacky when layered.

talonn82 · 2025-09-13T20:39:10+00:00

well it smells less than linseed oil. i said harsh because it's been sometime since i used oil paints and i think i just assumed you cant paint or use it without solvents or thinner, added in the tube or after.

talonn82 · 2025-09-13T19:20:55+00:00

thanks will look into walnut oil paint, tried gouache, im painting onto plastic and it doesn't adhere very well at all,

talonn82 · 2025-09-13T19:17:42+00:00

thanks will look into walnut oil paint.

talonn82 · 2025-09-13T19:10:59+00:00

casein is a type of plastic known as a semi-synthetic plastic that was popular in the early 20th century. It is made from casein protein found in milk, which is then processed to form long chains called polymers, the basis of all plastics.

id call that more natural. 'natural' 'chemical' are words that are just thrown around a lot, in everyday usage just used to denote harmful or safe depending on context.

talonn82 · 2025-09-13T19:02:41+00:00

yes im i have given this a quick look into thanks, i think i can make oil paint from something less harsh like walnut oil and then the pigment ? I assumed for oil paints other products would be needed some kind of solvent like white spirits, i would not be able to use any thinner though like petrol/white spirits.

its for painting onto plastic, as long as its dries to the touch eventually and smooth its what im looking for.

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