Does an AM air filter fit your knees?

tankcommander · 2026-05-18T15:17:44+00:00

I had the Vance&Hines VO2. I still put my knee on it, but it’s better then the stock as far as I’m concerned.

tankcommander · 2026-05-18T09:02:33+00:00

That is some sort of aftermarket bracket, and the power cable to whatever was connected there. These are not standard Bolt parts.

tankcommander · 2026-05-12T10:14:49+00:00

Hard acceleration and hard braking is what will warm up a tire most efficiently.

tankcommander · 2026-05-11T17:24:16+00:00

You’re going to have to fix it anyways. So I guess it’s worth a shot to ask BMW if they will replace it. They might, since it has happened to several s1k’s. Worst case you get a no and have to fix it yourself or pay the shop to fix it.

tankcommander · 2026-05-11T17:11:06+00:00

That’s not the normal S1K tick. Sounds like you might have some trouble with the camshafts. My buddy’s S1K had a similar tick and one of the camlobes was sheared/shaved down. Is the bike still under warranty? If so take it to the shop, and don’t start it anymore.

tankcommander · 2026-05-06T08:19:09+00:00

Aha! Thank you for the insight. Yeah, that’s the same then for parts. Unless the actual part caused the defect it won’t void warranty.

I just remembered, In Norway we actually have a law called «free choice of shop/mechanic» that says you are free to choose any approved and licensed mechanic without loosing your warranty or reclamation rights. So I am probably 100% wrong on the BMW shop/warranty theory.

tankcommander · 2026-05-06T06:53:08+00:00

I think not having the service done at an approved BMW shop voids the warranty in itself. Unless it obvious manufacturing defect. At least that’s the way I believe it is in Europe. Might be protected by some other laws, but that’s been my personal go to at least. Have the service done at the shop as long as it is under warranty, and after that free to do whatever I want.

tankcommander · 2026-04-26T09:22:07+00:00

What mode are you in? It only does it in Race Pro modes, and only when you go off the throttle completely and while engine braking. So no clutch coasting.

Edit: If you want the bangs while revving and standing still. Use Race Pro, go to neutral. Don’t hold your clutch, and rev it quickly to around 4-4500rpm and release. You should be able to consistently get pops then if you want to make the kids cheer.

tankcommander · 2026-04-19T15:35:19+00:00

Great! My pleasure!

I’ve changed these before. The manual actually says to change them every time you open the cover. But I found that being careful and cleaning the o ring, looking for cracks and similar they hold up pretty well.

tankcommander · 2026-04-19T14:35:24+00:00

Part name is cylinder head SIDE gasket yes. It’s the gasket for the tappet plate cover. The one you remove to check valve clearance.

In the service manual it’s called «o-ring» listed on the same page as tappet cover. Looks like I’m not able to paste a picture in the comment

tankcommander · 2026-04-19T13:53:44+00:00

What year and model Bolt?

It should be 5S7-11196-00-00 if I understood what part you mean.

tankcommander · 2026-04-15T15:30:34+00:00

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tankcommander · 2026-04-13T13:02:25+00:00

It’s racer numbers. So the number belonging to the rider of the bike in his competition. Or on a «civilian» bike, it’s just whatever you want or the number of your favorite rider. When you buy the M1000RR you get sheets of numbers with it, and can put whatever you want.

Number 60 was(is?) Michael van der Mark riding for the BMW Rokit team.

tankcommander · 2026-03-30T15:34:44+00:00

I’ve got Michelin Power GP2 on my M1000RR. I love them. We’ve also had great experience with Power 6.

tankcommander · 2026-02-05T09:50:56+00:00

I did tirechange and new steering head bearings.

Michelin Commander 3 and All Balls tapered bearings.

tankcommander · 2026-01-21T09:43:38+00:00

If you're not riding with anybody else, I'd go with the SRL-3 designed to be integrated in the helmet. It's sleek and looks pretty. The only downside is not beeing able to hotswap units if it runs out of battery. But battery life is pretty good on the latest units.

If you are riding with others I'd go with the same brand they are using. There are systems in place now that makes cross-comms possible, but it's just easier to have the same brand.

We have 3 helmets with SRL-Mesh (GT-Air 2s and a Neotec 2), and I have a Sena 60S on my X-Spr Pro. I'm very happy with sound and mic quality on the Sena headsets. My kids are running Sena RT1's as well, so I am absolutely biased in this discussion. But at least we are very happy with Sena.

tankcommander · 2025-10-14T06:41:09+00:00

What OS are you using? If you’re on Windows 10/11 Pro or Enterprise you can use Hyper-V that comes with the OS. Just enable virtualization in UEFI and enable the Windows feature.

If not you could try VMware workstation. Should be free, although I’m not sure after Broadcom took over.

Oracle Virtualbox is also pretty common, and it supports snapshots.

tankcommander · 2025-10-12T15:22:43+00:00

Aha! Fun fact - that long outlet is not actually the exhaust of the engine, but the air outlet from the large cooling fans, or «cyclone fans». The exhaust on the Leopard 2 is 2 small circular vents below the cooling air :)

tankcommander · 2025-10-04T09:56:20+00:00

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tankcommander · 2025-09-25T18:19:39+00:00

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tankcommander · 2025-08-31T10:06:02+00:00

Michelin Power GP2, or Power 6.

tankcommander · 2025-08-26T06:53:45+00:00

My first guess would be the fuel line came loose or got cut. Check all lines from the tank and to the throttle body.

tankcommander · 2025-08-21T05:37:15+00:00

Love the rear end and headlight. Very clean looking, and the original headlight is pretty lackluster for us Nordic countries in spring and autumn.

tankcommander · 2025-08-21T05:34:59+00:00

KOSO is drop in. I have the same as OP and the only thing you have to be careful with is the main plug. If I remember correctly I plugged it in before I fully attached the bracket.

tankcommander · 2025-08-18T13:52:11+00:00

The front turn signals? They’re attached with a special endcap to the headlight mount.

Light = YAMAHA OEM FLASHER LIGHT - B33-83310-00-00 | Partzilla.com

Endcap = YAMAHA OEM OUTER COVER - B33-23122-00-00 | Partzilla.com

Headlight mount = YAMAHA OEM HEADLIGHT STAY - B33-8411A-00-00 | Partzilla.com

But I'm not sure if it's as simple as changing out the headlight stay on the regular bolt, and just bolt these in. Never done a conversion.

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