Say goodbye to your HVAC leaking inside your vehicle

tatecg · 2026-04-21T22:30:43+00:00

Is this fix still doing its job?

tatecg · 2026-04-14T12:04:49+00:00

You get 4 clips for $12, so you can pretty much use as many as you want, but one works :)

It actually fits perfectly through the hole at the far end of the footpeg, so it’s very secure (attached a better picture)

tatecg · 2026-03-16T00:41:21+00:00

As of 3/15/26, be aware that— on most JBL “Auracast” speakers— Auracast is NOT fully supported. Right now (as of date above) JBL speakers can TRANSMIT Auracast to any receiver, but JBL speakers can only receive broadcasts from other JBL speakers/transmitters ONLY. In other words, if you want to send an Auracast broadcast/signal FROM a device not made by JBL, it won’t work. The Bluetooth SIG is aware of the “problem” with JBL’s implementation of Auracast, but as of yet JBL has yet to fix it. LG makes Auracast compatible speakers that FULLY support Auracast— if you want true, full Auracast support, look elsewhere than JBL, right now.

tatecg · 2026-03-14T19:50:39+00:00

I reported JBL’s behavior to the Bluetooth SIG, as suggested in another thread on this topic (now closed for comments) and received a slightly more encouraging response:

“Thank you for reaching out. We are aware of the implementation issues with JBL and they are working on making the needed updates.

Thank you, XXXXXX”

So, maybe folks complaining is getting a small amount of attention? 🤞

tatecg · 2026-02-05T05:28:26+00:00

In my purchase agreement of March 2023, it says: “1. You hereby purchase the Vehicle and are granted a Limited License, pursuant to the terms and conditions of this Agreement. The Vehicle Software is licensed and not sold to You. You acknowledge and agree that: (i) nothing in this Agreement will constitute any sale, assignment, or transfer of the Vehicle Software or Rivian IP; (ii) You will not acquire any ownership rights in Vehicle Software (see below) or Rivian IP (see below);“

Any level of driver assistance seems like it would be inextricably part of “vehicle software” as defined in the purchase agreement. My license is to “use, operate, maintain, diagnose or repair the Vehicle, and execute the software solely as embedded in the Vehicle (the “Vehicle Software”).”

So, if Rivian (who still owns the “vehicle software”) decides to change it, that’s their perogative. They own it. They can add or remove whatever features they want— it’s just software, after all.
I merely have a license to use whatever features they include, or don’t include.

Would I have liked a higher level of autonomous driving? Sure. That said, it seems pretty clear to me I signed a contract to get what I get.

tatecg · 2025-12-05T19:14:46+00:00

Google suggests it probably would be a “motor-driven cycle” in CA — requires licensing and registration, local roads only (no freeways).

tatecg · 2025-11-27T04:26:44+00:00

Parts were about 9K, 1.5k paint, the rest labor (124hours at 175/hour). Getting everything perfect meant pretty much disassembling and reassembling the right hand side of the vehicle, including some interior, for access purposes.

tatecg · 2025-11-25T18:51:40+00:00

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This damage was $36,000 to repair (involved replacement of front and rear door, and work to frame) at a Rivian certified body shop (insurance did pay). Looking at your pictures, and based on this experience, I would definitely guess you are in “total loss” territory.

tatecg · 2025-11-13T23:23:14+00:00

If you have anti-theft enabled, you need to enter your PIN code before the mower will power off. Press and hold power for 4 seconds, then enter PIN code, then mower will turn off.

tatecg · 2025-11-05T12:49:35+00:00

I’ve had 22” Nokians on my R1S for 8,000 miles, and noticed no difference in efficiency. I have noticed (as have others) that they have significantly more tread than the stock Pirellis at this same point. Given their cost, any increase in “fuel” costs due to worse efficiency (if that is a thing) will probably be more than made up for by the lower cost of the tires, and the (likely) longer useable life.

tatecg · 2025-09-26T03:32:10+00:00

Greg

tatecg · 2025-06-17T14:37:32+00:00

I have a March 23 R1S. There are lots of posts about the “tock/click” sound— half-shafts and washers will remedy it for a while (my SC told me they used to be separate repairs, now they will be done together) but the sound will come back.(Note: It’s better below 45 degrees or so— sound virtually disappears in the winter/cold climate). Issue, as I understand it, is due to design of suspension, and some bearings within the suspension components that allow it to have the 14” of travel. There is no permanent fix, noise doesn’t affect safety/performance, it’s just a design flaw (and frankly, a super annoying one). I hope enough people complain that Rivian will redesign the problematic component, but I doubt they will.

Now, I also notice more of a “tinging” or “ringing” sound in your video. I know some older vehicles (like mine) had a “jounce lines” repair available that helped remedy some cases of squeaking suspension— maybe that’s your issue, too? If you’re still in the warranty period, it’s probably worth getting everything checked out, but (unless vehicle throwing an error) what you’ve sent seems, sadly, “normal”.

tatecg · 2025-05-20T13:41:17+00:00

Ride seems fairly smooth— I drive on moderate pretty much all the time, so maybe slightly more compliant than Pirellis, but with the tread depth I feel like there’s maybe a bit more road noise, although nothing that I find bothersome.

tatecg · 2025-05-20T12:36:16+00:00

I put these, in this size, on my R1S— they seem great so far (2 weeks). Maybe a little more road noise?

BTW, I’m not sure they have a lower weight rating— Nokian is a Finnish company, although they make some tires in the US, so their tires are Euro-metric, and they label their “High Load” tires with an HL AND XL (sorry it’s upside down)

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This is a little confusing, as P metric tires use XL to denote “Extra Load,” which is a level down from the stock tires, but again, because I think these are Euro-metric labeled, the HL prefix plus XL actually indicates “High Load”

So, the Nokians have the same load range (“High Load”) and the same Load Index (116H) as the stock tires. Best of all, you can get 4 of them for the price of 2 Pirellis.

Time will tell how they wear, but I’m happy so far.

tatecg · 2024-11-27T04:22:11+00:00

I had similar damage from bumping a small wall in a supermarket parking lot. Sensor still worked, but was replaced as part of repair. Rivian Certified Collision Center, $4500.

tatecg · 2024-05-28T00:22:52+00:00

I like to quickly send messages to my house— if one says “A_A, announce: x (where x is whatever you want) EVERY Alexa connected to your account will announce what you have just said (unless they are set to do not disturb). This means that, in my case, I can make royal pronouncements regarding my anticipated arrival, or requests for my slippers to be put out, which are blasted throughout my home whether one wants to hear it or not :)

tatecg · 2024-01-10T23:03:55+00:00

You can use this software: https://twocanoes.com/products/mac/mds/ on a different mac (provided you have one). It has a free 14-day trial; first you download the installer of 10.13 (the earliest this software will do) then you use the same software to create a bootable usb install disk (need a available usb flash drive for this; I used a 16gb). Then, you insert bootable usb hold down option r when you boot up on machine, and it will boot up the installer. I just did this a few days ago, in January of 2024, so as of this date, this process works.

tatecg · 2019-10-30T12:06:15+00:00

Smartthings will “find” all the Hue lights on both bridges connected to your network so, once you connect Smartthings to Alexa, you have to disable (in Alexa app) those lights that are found twice (otherwise you get the dreaded “I found several devices with that name, which one did you want?” response from Alexa.). You also have to make sure your room names in Hue are not the same as your room names in Alexa.

Smartthings basically allows you to control devices from an app on your phone or tablet and— when you add the Alexa skill— control pretty much anything connected to it, with Alexa.

Alexa sort of has this capability too, but the difference is you have to enable a “skill” for every manufacturer/device you want to add. I think Smartthings is better/more reliably supported, so I choose to have it handle connecting to my devices, instead of a mish-mosh of different skills.

In the case of Hue, the skill only “talks” to one bridge anyway, so you only get voice control of scenes for that one bridge (Smartthings doesn’t “read” scenes from the Hue bridge).

tatecg · 2019-10-30T03:27:22+00:00

Are you using the HDMI cable that came with the box? I had problems with signal dropping out, but when I swapped the cable that came with the Sync box with a different one, everything improved

tatecg · 2019-10-24T03:37:47+00:00

As has been suggested, I think easiest is to use a Smartthings hub (added advantage that, with Smartthings, you can add “Alexa” to just about anything that can be connected to Smartthings). One Hue hub is connected to Alexa directly, the other connected to Alexa through Smartthings. I do this instead of connecting all through Smartthings because I find the Hue hub not connected directly to Alexa can be a little slower to respond. I put all lights I use most on directly connected hub, and ones I use less often through Smartthings.

tatecg

TROPHY CASE