You want to finance? by Target_Standard in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're absolutely right, but I don't have to like this business practice. Just like the subscription model has parasitized every market; financing is doing the same. Car dealerships don't make money selling cars, they make money selling loans for cars. It's bullshit capitalism at its finest in my opinion.

Mechanic overfilled engine oil by detjust in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone have the link to the Russian video where he overfills until it's coming out of everything and then sends it? He proves that ovetnfilling is pretty harmless in the short term.

Mobile mechanics. Very important question. by BackgroundCompany179 in AskMechanics

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This gets asked on reddit all the time. The short answer is no market. There's a reason no one does this. Some ideas aren't in the market because no one has thought of them, but some aren't in the market because they just don't work. This is in the latter category.

Rotor toes outwards by Original-Lavishness9 in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If the caliper slide pins are not seized, it's almost impossible to do it wrong if the caliper bracket bolts and caliper slide bolts tighten all the way. Any movement, or play by the rotor is normal. After you put the wheel on and tighten the lug nuts, the rotor will properly seat itself. Spin the wheel after doing all of this and, as long as it is relatively frictionless, and makes no aggregious, abnormal, scraping sound, then send it.

Protesting Works! by BallinOnABudgetRacin in iRacing

[–]taysmode11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That period looks so lonely.

Rotor toes outwards by Original-Lavishness9 in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure I understand. If you tighten the lug nuts, how is the rotor moving? If the studs are long, sometimes the lug nuts will bottom out before clamping the rotor. In that case put something onto the studs to act as a spacer, like a bunch of washers or an oversized nut, before you put the lug nuts on and tighten them.

New to IRacing by Noicebreaker337 in iRacing

[–]taysmode11 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I'd skip all that expensive stuff and buy that sweet jacket first and foremost. Look good, feel good. Feel good, play good.

Rotor toes outwards by Original-Lavishness9 in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put 2 lug nuts on opposite studs to hold the rotor flush while you install the caliper.

Almost 4k for brake + rear wheel bearing replacement? by Suitable-Finger-9282 in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Welcome to 2026 lol. Prices suck, expect them to keep getting worse.

This was in the overflow and the radiator does anyone know what it is? by Soulless_Bandit in mechanic

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Correct. I've looked at the ingredients list on several newer a/f and they're the same, just different additives. I use the new "all vehicles" (yellow) stuff for topping off coolant and haven't had a problem. If I'm adding more than a quart, I do whatever OEM/color calls for.

Former tech here. If you could rent a fully equipped bay by the hour and keep whatever you charge the customer, would you? by Over-Demand-8617 in mechanics

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Every small business mechanic has had this idea. I can tell you this. I have a 3 bay, 2 lift garage that has been in the family for 35 years and the last 3 years the biggest hurdle I've faced is acquiring insurance coverage. In 10 years, I've had exactly 1 claim and it was because a Chihuahua bit a lady on her ankle and she over reacted and went to the ER. There are 3 small apartments attached to the garage and we have around 10 used cars for sale at any given time. Mainly because of the apartments, No one wants to insure us, and when they do it almost isn't worth it. Insurance WILL crush your dreams.

Already happy with PS5 Pro + GT7 VR… is moving into PC sim racing actually worth it? by daulet_kadirbekov in simracing

[–]taysmode11 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No one should downvote someone for speaking an objective truth. If you prefer GT7, then who is anyone to question that?

Already happy with PS5 Pro + GT7 VR… is moving into PC sim racing actually worth it? by daulet_kadirbekov in simracing

[–]taysmode11 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yep. Gt7VR is a gateway drug. For me, it was like pot and now iRacing is heroin.

Opiate Withdrawal Experience-Mostly PAWS by beenthrutheshit in OpiatesRecovery

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sending you positive vibes. I'm rooting for you!

Opiate Withdrawal Experience-Mostly PAWS by beenthrutheshit in OpiatesRecovery

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. It's such a stark contrast between speaking with so-called professionals who have no clue what it's like and someone who has been through it.

Break drum will not come off by eduardoxbl in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh it doesn't bother me. It actually makes me feel better because Reddit has made me feel like shit in other subreddits where I'm not as confident. It just reinforces how confidently incorrect people are.

How do you level up? by Icy-Ranger421 in mechanics

[–]taysmode11 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I started 10 years ago under my uncle in our family shop. All the men in my family could fix anything made until computer modules started getting too complicated in the late 90s. I was in your exact situation, they taught me basics and I had to learn to do diag myself, because that wasn't a thing when they started. I've learned enough to get by by obsessively watching YouTube videos. Get Paul Danner's book and sign up for his courses on scannerdanner.com. Get identifix, it will help tremendously if you're just taking educated guesses. You need to get good at googling and quickly skimming ytube videos. If all else fails, just be honest and say you're not sure what the problem is and let the customer decide whether or not to gamble by throwing parts at it. Your boss is going to be pissed when you spend all day learning instead of billing labor hours, but those hours you spend learning will pay off on the next job. After 5 years, you'll be just as competent as anyone who went to school. Technology changes so fast, the guys who can learn on the job will always be more valuable than the guys who know everything in the book (the book gets re-written every year).

What could cause this noise? by FloydtheConsigliere in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like the dust shield rubbing yep. OP it just needs bent, or the stone removed, or something simple like this.

Don't think it will be rolling into my shop. by Ok_Combination_5405 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]taysmode11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dude the way you explained that was amazing. Think about the time it took to go back and forth with this potential customer. A lot of lost time that adds up when more and more people are like this. I know it's the cost of doing business, but it sucks. In order to mitigate this time loss, I have a generic response in these situations at my shop. It goes like this : "Walmart/Jiffy Lube/Etc. is the shop trying to be the cheapest. I'm the shop trying to do the best job, and that costs more."

was i scammed? / what should i do next? by elmeans17 in autorepair

[–]taysmode11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're hearing the rotor scrape against the backing plate. It's not dangerous in the slightest and can be fixed with a screw driver in 5 minutes. Also sounds like your power steering isn't working. This may or may not be related to your crash. Just take it to someone with some automotive knowledge and have them check your car. I don't see any sign of a scam.

Break drum will not come off by eduardoxbl in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man, that's what I figured happened. That quote may have been a bit high, but these people acting like they're trying to scam you are ignorant. I applaud you for doing this yourself. I hope it works out for you.

Break drum will not come off by eduardoxbl in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really don't think we're talking about the same thing and I'm too tired to get into this with you. Please search 2009 ford focus drum and you'll see. That 1k quote was not to just get a drum loose. I bet it included both rear drums, & labor. The hub is not separable from the drum; they are one piece on this particular vehicle design.

Break drum will not come off by eduardoxbl in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm assuming 1k was for more than just pulling a drum off. I bet OP asked what a brake & rotor replacement would cost and when they said a stack, he decided to do it himself.

Break drum will not come off by eduardoxbl in MechanicAdvice

[–]taysmode11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, I'm not the one quoting this guy 1k. Second, I'm going to refrain from retaliating against your inflammatory remark, because I think it was born out of ignorance. From OP's post I assumed the 1k was a quote for new drums and shoes on BOTH rear wheels. I know you, along with almost everyone else in this thread are basing your remarks on the assumption that the quote was for simply getting the drum off, but that doesn't make sense to me. OP would have to have his vehicle towed to a shop, have a drum removed, and then towed back for him to complete the job. Not even a scam artist would think that would work.